Post reply

The message has the following error or errors that must be corrected before continuing:
Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 180 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.
Attachments: (Clear attachments)
Restrictions: 6 per post (6 remaining), maximum total size 64.00 MB, maximum individual size 29.30 MB
Uncheck the attachments you no longer want attached
Click or drag files here to attach them.
Other options
Shortcuts: ALT+S post or ALT+P preview

Topic summary

Posted by stein69
 - October 03, 2015, 13:53:45 PM

So the parts came in and I'm doing the work! First off the screws holding the mag pick up and the wire retainer are TIGHT, I broke them free with a pair of needle nose vise grips before I striped out the #2 phillips. Is there supposed to oil around there. I'm guessing about an ounce or two. So right now I'm wiping it all out and getting reading to reassemble everything. So is oil there ok and expected?
an hour later....
I reassembled everything and no crunching when I started it up so that is a bonus. I checked my voltage from my battery tender leads just to see what I had at elevated speed and the same indications. 12.66 volts up to 12.75. So I disconnected the alternator wire and read what it was pushing out. it read 22.23 which is really low so I started messing with the range and it was read the same. I have to clean up and run over the mother in laws for a bit. I'll check back in a bit! --Stein

Posted by Troll
 - September 19, 2015, 20:59:21 PM

Each winding of the stator is called a leg. There are three in all non commercial alternators, requiring 6 diodes, 2 per leg. Doesn't matter if one, two or all three are bad, you have to replace the whole assembly $120 sounds like a good deal. You will need a gasket for the cover, too Partzilla lists the price for the OEM stator at $339.80...so sounds like a deal to me. Gasket price...do not reuse the old one, you will regret it
11061A
GASKET,GENERATOR COVER,OUT

11061-1080
$15.47
$10.76

Posted by stein69
 - September 19, 2015, 15:06:55 PM
Quote from: Troll on September 19, 2015, 14:44:04 PM

The stator leg that showed low output is the culprit. The rotor would effect all legs, and since it's a permanent rare earth magnet, unless the magnet is broken/missing, it's probably going to be ok.

When you say stator "leg" you mean the winding portions sticking out like Jugs on a recipe motor? the PN for the stator is 21003-0008 and Electrosport has it for 119$ is that about average for one of these?
Posted by Troll
 - September 19, 2015, 14:44:04 PM

The stator leg that showed low output is the culprit. The rotor would effect all legs, and since it's a permanent rare earth magnet, unless the magnet is broken/missing, it's probably going to be ok.

Posted by stein69
 - September 19, 2015, 14:27:35 PM

With a good battery I was getting 12.7 volts above idle, high rpm above idle. Ran new ground to chassis from neg ground on the back of transmission. Tested AC out put at the three yellow wires while it was disconnected (troll suggested that in the beginning) and behold a reading I can definitely call bad. Max at high idle was 125vac. That's half what the book calls for. So my alternator is bad. Should I replace the stator or the rotor or both?

Posted by stein69
 - September 19, 2015, 13:35:37 PM

I just saw the idea about the ground and I will check that now! I hope that is it! I just put in the new battery it was 12.5 after autozone charged it. I don't have a tach but the voltage only went up .1 volt. I hope it's the ground!

Posted by DC
 - September 15, 2015, 00:01:27 AM
Quote from: aralph on September 14, 2015, 21:22:59 PM

Just throwing this out there, but have you ever checked the frame ground
to make sure it is tight and clean.

aralph

This is the exact problem I had and needlessly went out and bought a new battery, before I discovered the real problem.
Posted by aralph
 - September 14, 2015, 21:22:59 PM

Just throwing this out there, but have you ever checked the frame ground
to make sure it is tight and clean.

aralph

Posted by stein69
 - September 13, 2015, 19:52:13 PM

Thanks guys. I have the battery on order and I will let you know the voltage test with a good battery when it gets in!

Posted by Troll
 - September 12, 2015, 07:55:18 AM

Yuasa YUAM6220C YTX20CH-BS Battery will this fit under the seat???
That's what I have. Same size as the 16 but more power.

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 22:38:03 PM

"Did you measure the a/c output with the engine running? What is the D/C voltage at the battery with the engine running? Should be 14.5 or so at idle. Mine goes to 15.2 @2000 rpm. see the instructions on page 15-29 about D/C and A/C output." -Troll. I did this with a dead battery. I jumped the bike to get it running and then after I took the bike for a spin around the block I pulled the seat off while it was running and tested it! Not good! I came up with 11.5-12 volts. Then I tried to restart it after I shut it down and nothing, just clicking. So I'm looking at new batteries on Amazon and should have one by Tuesday! If a battery is all that I need... well I'm glad I bought a Kawasaki! --Stein

Yuasa YUAM6220C YTX20CH-BS Battery will this fit under the seat???

Posted by greenbarn
 - September 11, 2015, 18:49:00 PM
Quote from: stein69 on September 11, 2015, 11:10:40 AM

All of these read out good. So my stator and rectifier are good?? I still don't understand why my voltage while running is so low. The battery was shot when I did the voltage test. Would that suck up all my alternator voltage so I would be unable to read correct voltage?

The other answer to your question is - "yes" the dead battery (depending) can give you bad readings.   Can't trust voltage readings when the battery is dead/bad.   I've seen it a lot on cars- and assume the same is the same on bikes.  The dead battery can be possibly taking all the current and your readings could be incorrect.   Might want to install a good battery (you need one anyway, right) and retest....
Posted by Troll
 - September 11, 2015, 13:59:33 PM

Did you measure the a/c output with the engine running? What is the D/C voltage at the battery with the engine running? Should be 14.5 or so at idle. Mine goes to 15.2 @2000 rpm. see the instructions on page 15-29 about D/C and A/C output.

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 11:10:40 AM

All of these read out good. So my stator and rectifier are good?? I still don't understand why my voltage while running is so low. The battery was shot when I did the voltage test. Would that suck up all my alternator voltage so I would be unable to read correct voltage?

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 10:35:20 AM

So this is the stator test and resistance is high but good.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk