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Posted by pcarrell
- August 11, 2015, 08:56:58 AMQuote from: chief on August 10, 2015, 11:19:07 AMBingo!Exactly the way I do it. I only level to ensure the right oil level.
Posted by moosewing3
- August 11, 2015, 08:43:55 AMHarbor Freight/ Princess Auto has these wheel chocks which fit the Drifter
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97843.html
Or the original Condor
http://store.condor-lift.com/products.php?product=Pit%252dStop%7B47%7DTrailer%252dStop
But I use the same lift as Donkey, plus I have a larger foot pump one on wheels from Canadian tire
Posted by Troll
- August 10, 2015, 11:58:06 AMEvery other oil change, when I change the final drive oil, I pull the screen. so that's twice a year.
Posted by chief
- August 10, 2015, 11:19:07 AMQuote from: pcarrell on July 20, 2015, 10:21:38 AMSo you guys change the oil with the bike level? I assume you're using the drain plug then?
I've never done it that way before. I always change the oil on the side stand and I pull the screen out of the side of the crankcase near the kickstand. It allows a very complete draining of the oil, as well as allows me to inspect the oil screen for any issues.
Exactly the way I do it. I only level to ensure the right oil level.
Posted by 99tango
- August 09, 2015, 15:44:10 PMI appreciate all the responses and valuable information.
Donkey, I've ordered a scissor lift just like in your post. That will be good for tire work and should go high enough to remove the front tire & fender. I found the front fender Indian light pulls + in the headlight bucket from one of the front marker/dir sig lights.
CDNRatman, I am working on isolating the Roadhouse muffler now - will be a challenge. I considered the Pivot Stand but don't think it could raise the bike high enough to remove the front wheel.
Bambam0099, the Idaho adapter is a neat contraption - I plan on building something similar.
49Reo, I had enough room to drain/change oil & filter without using 2x6(s), but I don't know about the side drain screen. I'll find out next time.
I've tried the mirror method for checking oil level - with little success. I can't keep the bike level and balanced, shine a flashlight onto the mirror, and hold everything still enough all by myself. You gotta be a coordinated contortionist!
I installed some nice but inexpensive risers that bring the bars back about 1-1/2". The studs ended up costing nearly as much as the risers. Grips are about perfect position now.
Pcarrell, I'll find and remove that oil screen next oil change. I wish I'd used that method the first time. Only way to go. I'll bet it's never been checked on this bike.
The Gadgets site is awesome!
Posted by Bucko
- July 20, 2015, 16:21:11 PMQuote from: pcarrell on July 20, 2015, 10:21:38 AM+1I've never done it that way before. I always change the oil on the side stand and I pull the screen out of the side of the crankcase near the kickstand.
Posted by DC
- July 20, 2015, 13:43:51 PMQuote from: 49Reo on July 20, 2015, 10:52:55 AMSame here. The first oil change I did on my bike, I pulled the screen and there was this soft grey plastic stuff on it. After that, I never saw it again on subsequent oil changes.Same. First time I pulled the screen I found a small piece of plastic or cellophane, like parts come wrapped in, stuck to the screen. Since then the screen is always been clean. I still remove it at service intervals, which drains the last of the oil in the crank case. And this is done with the bike on the side stand, like PC stated.
Posted by 49Reo
- July 20, 2015, 10:52:55 AMSame. First time I pulled the screen I found a small piece of plastic or cellophane, like parts come wrapped in, stuck to the screen. Since then the screen is always been clean. I still remove it at service intervals, which drains the last of the oil in the crank case. And this is done with the bike on the side stand, like PC stated.
Posted by pcarrell
- July 20, 2015, 10:21:38 AMSo you guys change the oil with the bike level? I assume you're using the drain plug then?
I've never done it that way before. I always change the oil on the side stand and I pull the screen out of the side of the crankcase near the kickstand. It allows a very complete draining of the oil, as well as allows me to inspect the oil screen for any issues.
Posted by 49Reo
- July 19, 2015, 11:12:55 AMI built mine in about an hour. I found that by running the bike up on a couple of 2x6's makes it much easier to put the the lift under it both with and without the adapter; just makes it easier..
Posted by 49Reo
- July 18, 2015, 22:04:10 PMAll I do to get my bike high enough to change oil is put a piece of 2x6 about a foot long in front of each wheel, drive the bike up on those, slide a 3rd 2x6 under the side stand, and slide the drain tub under it. gets it high enough to put the drain tub over far enough to pull the screen as well. As to locking the front brake, I have a 3/8" or so wide section of a motorcycle inner tube hanging on the mirror; when I need to lock the front brake, I take it off the mirror, hook the loop over the end of the brake lever, take a wrap around the handlebar, and hook it to the brake lever again; works like a charm.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- July 18, 2015, 21:12:34 PMNot sure about the removal of the tire on a 1500 but if and we know Troll will be correct that little pivot stand I have would work easily. That stand can be handled by anyone and not to be rude but I think most of the ladies on this forum could use it to lift their bikes, once you get the hang of sliding it under the bike and remember the bike will lift and level off so the stand has to be positioned correctly. Really smple to lower it and a one person operation and really worth the funds for fast up and down.
Posted by Troll
- July 18, 2015, 20:42:33 PMAll you need to do is get the rear tire off the ground, even a couple of mm...you take off the rear fender and it will roll right out, once you remove the caliper and the axle and spacers...
Posted by Mr. P
- July 15, 2015, 16:16:36 PMI brought the Kawasaki jack that is in the repair manual to lift mine (57001-1238) and the attachments (57001-1398). Pricey, but I never looked back. 220$ 16 years ago. Have done front and rear tire changes and even remove the engine with it. Very stable and easy to use tho you will need a small jack to lift the front since the Kaw jack raises the rear tire. Tape the front brake back and your in business. I use it for other things too because it is so sturdy. Mr. P.
Posted by bambam0099
- June 29, 2015, 10:35:23 AMThat exhaust looks horrendously ugly ... I would suggest removing it and selling it to me! :-)
I use an Idaho jack adapter which can be seen here:
http://www.chucksterscustoms.com/Home/ProductDetail?PartNumber=CC-I-JA