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Quote from: Bucko on August 04, 2014, 19:07:23 PMAre you sure the battery is good. There may be enough power to run the ignition system, or turn the starter, but not both at the same time - which would explain why you can bump start it but not start it with the starter. A sure sign that your battery is shot is if the clock resets when you start the bike using the starter (because of the voltage drop when the starter kicks in).
i have had this problem before. Tested the battery at autzone on rhe ccca load tester an battery was good but bike would not start when hot just turn and turn. But if we jumped it after turning for ever wor down the battery she fired perfect. So with a full battery ran the bike around town get home turn off. Wont fire back up hooked up cable to my truck fired perfect. Repaced battery havent had the issue again since.
Well, that pretty much rules out the switch/resistor issue that plagues some installations....
Troll, 10-4 the fuel pump works... Even get that distinct gurgle when you turn the key... In fact when I hit the starter and it doesn't turn over you can smell the fuel. smh
When it won't start, do you hear the fuel pump run?
Ok... So this morning I turn the ol' key switch... Hit the starter... One one thousand... Two one thousand... Vroooom, Blap, Blap, Blap... Fires right up... Gotta be shortin' something from the dampness... @ Troll... Mine would be sealed.
Sounds like that's the way to go.
WD40 = Water Displacement formula #40.
Here's an old mechanic's trick from an old mechanic. Don't spray water on the electronics. Spray WD40 on it. One of the characteristics of WD40 is that it displaces moisture. The other is that it is nonconductive. The next time the bike balks due to dampness, start spraying parts of your electrical beginning with your plug wires. Then work your way around until the bike starts up. Chances are the last thing you sprayed is the culprit.
The old style brass roller switch is pretty open on the bottom, and has a bunch of screw connectors. The later switches are all sealed up.
Good question Troll, I'll have to check... What's the difference... What do I look for... Can you tell by the pic... I do know that if I turn the switch left my tail lights come on... It just has term posts protruding... 3 top (11:00, 12:00 and 1:00) 3 bottom (7:00, 6:00 and 5:00)
Quote from: Bake on August 04, 2014, 20:00:59 PMTroll... Why is it that it only happens when it's damp... She'll fire right up any other time... Think I'm gonna' have to take the dash plate off and check the term-connectors and put some dielectric grease to work.
Is it one of the sealed switches, or is it the brass roller and pins type?
Troll... Why is it that it only happens when it's damp... She'll fire right up any other time... Think I'm gonna' have to take the dash plate off and check the term-connectors and put some dielectric grease to work.
Quote from: Bake on August 04, 2014, 18:36:16 PMTroll... No, It's a Harley Key switch that I installed and had a dash plate CnC'd for... The OE switch has the resistor built into it... I matched it up at RadioShack and soldered it in (shrink tubed, Lawson's electrical tape, damn near bullet proof) maybe it's one of the term connectors at the switch?
Hell, H-D switches don't work on H-Ds half the time...I'll bet I've replaced those switches on every H-D I ever had at least twice....The thunder kit uses the H-D switch, so I'll bet you still have an issue like I had. Check all the connections and re-solder the resistor.
Bucko, Battery is fine, Bike starts right up any other time... Just acts up when there's moisture, dew, fog etc.
Are you sure the battery is good. There may be enough power to run the ignition system, or turn the starter, but not both at the same time - which would explain why you can bump start it but not start it with the starter. A sure sign that your battery is shot is if the clock resets when you start the bike using the starter (because of the voltage drop when the starter kicks in).
Troll... No, It's a Harley Key switch that I installed and had a dash plate CnC'd for... The OE switch has the resistor built into it... I matched it up at RadioShack and soldered it in (shrink tubed, Lawson's electrical tape, damn near bullet proof) maybe it's one of the term connectors at the switch?
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