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Let me ask you a question: Early on you said you checked fuses, etc. Did you check the EFI main fuse in the white connector next to the battery? If the bike runs with your jumper in place, then the wiring from the relay to both the EFI computer and the fuel pump must be good, but there is no power coming out of the relay. If you were to put power on the r/w wire up at the tank connector, the same thing would happen. Power for the computer and the fuel pump both come from the same terminal on the relay, and the wire splits, one leg going to the pump, and one leg going to the computer. What you have proved is that, except for the loss of power to the pump, all the other expensive and hard to get parts are good. Now you need to hunt down why there is no power from the relay. Remove your jumper, and turn on the key..the EFI light should come on, if it doesn't, then there is no power on the output of the relay...so either the relay is bad, or the fuse in the white fuse holder is blown/loose...
This seems to work ! Bad good idea ?
Quote from: Troll on July 03, 2014, 08:27:25 AMOk I came up with this bike starts and runs pum cycles on a stops till I start the bike like it should.If you put power to the pump, it runs. It's most likely a problem with this single wire. When the relay energizes, the pump should run, but it doesn't, so the voltage, which you measured at the connector, is not there, unless you jump the power from the battery...Correct? I'm still looking at a bad connection/broken wire between the relay and the pump...This stuff is so hard to figure out by remote control! Put power to the pump, leave it connected, and start the engine. DO NOT remove the power, and see what happens. I'll bet it continues to run.
The diagram is for an "R", and that's what he's got. I'm thinking that the actual fuel pump power circuit is going to be the same. One of the reasons that the J has fewer pins is that it has a mechanical speedometer, so no V.S.S. input..
Great information Troll..but I Have to ask, I have a year 2000 'J1' which has less pins on the ICU..Isn't that diagram for a different model.
John.
You're in great hands with Troll!
He's very generous with his time and knowledge, that's for sure!
I just now did that connected power to the wire on the pump started the bike and it continued to run. It takes a few times touching the battery though to get the pump to come on. The bike does run when it's connected this way. As soon as I remove the wire it dies. I am suspecting something else is wrong since it just clicks a few times before the pump kicks in. It did this before itermittingly before when the bike was running until it finally quit. Your doing great at distance troubleshooting I wish I was more adept at reading your diagrams so I could help more thank you very much for your assistance
If you put power to the pump, it runs. It's most likely a problem with this single wire. When the relay energizes, the pump should run, but it doesn't, so the voltage, which you measured at the connector, is not there, unless you jump the power from the battery...Correct? I'm still looking at a bad connection/broken wire between the relay and the pump...This stuff is so hard to figure out by remote control! Put power to the pump, leave it connected, and start the engine. DO NOT remove the power, and see what happens. I'll bet it continues to run.
Another dumb question could it be the efi ?
It's the pin with the red/white wire coming out of the EFI relay under the right side cover.
Can I get a pic of which pin feeds the fuel pump. Can I run a new wire from ignition to feed it ?
Ok will do I noticed a clicking sound down near the fuel injector and I had to feed the positive to the fuel pump a few times before it would actually pump any sign of another problem ?
Check for power at the points listed with the key on.
Where do I start ? Ticket to Florida ?
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