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Posted by moosewing3
- May 05, 2014, 19:21:07 PMSo I have noticed that if I flick the kill switch on and off 3 or 4 times before I hit the starter button, it engages instantly. After spending most of the last two weeks wrenching one thing or another, I will delay tearing this switch apart for cleaning. So far my new bike has had the following as I noticed a kind of wobble in the front end between 50 and 60 mph. Caliper was sticking, did a total rebuild, changed the wheel bearings, balanced tire, proper inflation. Still bouncing. Next up, neck bearings I guess. Switch can wait lol.
Posted by John Hopkins
- April 28, 2014, 11:18:45 AMThe ICU takes a moment or two for the lights to all flash on then off again, this probably coincides with the time it takes to fill the fuel header ready for the injectors to fire..but not more than two seconds..Bend down to insert the key and switch it on and by the time you are on the seat it is ready to fire, then there is a delay while the engine races slightly before slowing down to a steady idle at about 800 to 900 revs.
I've been very lucky with my poor old bike, it is very dusty and has never let me down, It won't get cleaned until I have hammered it for at least another 3,000 miles this season..
John.
Posted by Gooseberrie
- April 28, 2014, 10:07:04 AM 
I own my 1999 dark goosberry for two months and haven't had injection before so I noticed just now, that it takes two seconds or so before start. But, that there isn't any delay at all after I have been riding.
This delay seems to be fuel pressure related to me also. When there are any problems with long delay it should be interesting to know if there is any long selftest before being able to start next. When the problem persists, even after rides, then the cause is most likely sensor related. Perhaps bad electrical connection to it somewhere, even on fuses, or not enough power overall.
The car engine advice is true. Jumpstart is to be performed with engine off. Amps are too high. You don't want to be sorry. Don't even hook up an extra battery for too long. Having the battery empty, the ignition can malfunction (very notable or unnoticed) so the only right thing to do is charge the battery. You can charge beyond the 1/10 amperage rule when you stop or "step back" before the battery is full. An old adapter can be put to use when charging is attended and adding a fuse in the plus line is wise. There is not much of a choice in motorbike battery chargers. Defects can lead to fire or explosion in both charger and battery and since an adapter is not protected both charger and battery may get hot. When the battery is not shorted internally and it is drained over time then sulphite is often removed by consuming much of the fresh charge and recharging. It makes sense to use a step back, automated, diagnosing and slower charger under these circumstances, where you could have seen it coming.
I am passing my two Euro cents here because it may seem like running a car engine, its much stronger battery being connected to our batteries, would be a right thing to do. Remove any jump wires seconds after when the engine starts. Greetings. Alfred
...all that is being said.
Posted by moosewing3
- April 13, 2014, 22:34:53 PMI have a deep cycle booster pack
Posted by chief
- April 13, 2014, 17:04:37 PMEven though our bikes are 12v, don't start the car when you jump a bike from an auto.
Posted by pcarrell
- April 13, 2014, 16:11:39 PM
Posted by Troll
- April 13, 2014, 16:05:48 PM"Working on a Harley"...goes together.....
Posted by pcarrell
- April 13, 2014, 15:47:02 PMQuote from: Troll on April 13, 2014, 10:51:12 AMUmmmmm, duh! Wow! I just had a major brain fart there! Sorry, I was working on an old Harley this morning. Guess my head was there when I posted.Sorry, PC, the bikes are 12v...nominal, 14.7 normal..same as a car
Posted by Troll
- April 13, 2014, 10:51:12 AMQuote from: pcarrell on April 13, 2014, 10:40:18 AMIf you jump from a car battery, make sure the car isn't running! Cars run on 12v, while our bikes are 6v, and a running car can fry our wiring.
Sorry, PC, the bikes are 12v...nominal, 14.7 normal..same as a car
Posted by pcarrell
- April 13, 2014, 10:40:18 AMIf you jump from a car battery, make sure the car isn't running! Cars run on 12v, while our bikes are 6v, and a running car can fry our wiring.
Posted by moosewing3
- April 13, 2014, 08:06:55 AMYup I've got that will check. Battery took and held a full charge so may start tracing out the connections.
Posted by greenbarn
- April 12, 2014, 21:12:40 PMQuote from: Troll on April 12, 2014, 20:02:05 PMDo this first: take off the seat and either hook up a car battery (or a car... doesn't have to be running) or a battery charger. Wait a few minutes and try to start the bike. I'm suspecting weak battery or bad connections
Definitely sounds like one of those, or a starter going bad- more likely the battery or connections, though, I would think.
Moose, do you have either a volt meter or a test-light? A cheap test light is very helpful in diagnosing LOTS of electrical issues. A cheap volt meter is even better to diagnose battery problems. hmmmm Reminds me of an idea for a tool forum topic...
Posted by Troll
- April 12, 2014, 20:02:05 PMDo this first: take off the seat and either hook up a car battery (or a car... doesn't have to be running) or a battery charger. Wait a few minutes and try to start the bike. I'm suspecting weak battery or bad connections
Posted by moosewing3
- April 12, 2014, 19:18:15 PMno, click click click, not like a stripped or underpowered starter. Probably just break down and go to a mechanic lol.
Posted by Troll
- April 12, 2014, 12:32:38 PMAre these clicking noises constant? Like a rattle?