We limit access by GUESTS to protect our members from spam, hacks and trolls. Please register to gain access to all our resources.
Posted by Mike922
- September 11, 2014, 11:26:17 AMAlso flush your clutch fluid, same as the brake fluid and while your front end is apart, since you are waiting on parts, replace front fork oil, it probably never been done.
Good luck.
Posted by chief
- September 11, 2014, 09:34:42 AMThanks for the update!
Posted by moosewing3
- September 11, 2014, 00:17:26 AMI know this an old thread but I really had no problems removing the races, didn't need to weld anything.
Posted by Troll
- October 29, 2013, 11:47:48 AMAfter you remove the top triple clamp, the funny looking nut with all the teeth on it is what is holding the steering stem into the frame. Remove that, and the stem will slide straight down, exposing the bearings. Be aware, these bearings are supposed to be covered with grease, but will most likely not be. Examine the races (the parts in the neck tube on the frame) carefully. Any vertical lines in the race what won't wipe off are damage, and require replacement. If you can feel them with a finger nail, they require replacement. The bearing cones (the part that has all the rollers on it) very seldom show any wear, unless you have a rust problem, like Racemom91 did with her 800. http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=24500.msg50472#msg50472
I'm using a wheel bearing grease designed for boat trailers...it's more waterproof than the normal stuff. Don't be afraid to pack the neck full when you reassemble...I have always put a grease fitting in the neck on all my bikes, the first time I have them apart for this service, and that saves time and labor down the road. You are supposed to repack the bearings every 10,000 miles...for me that's once a year.
Posted by Mike922
- October 29, 2013, 09:25:07 AMHi, just reading your thread, I have my front end off/apart to change the fork springs to Progressive. I want to check and lube the steering neck bearings.
Can I just take off the handle bars and risers, then access and remove the steering hear nut? Just wonder if that will be all I need to remove to check and lube these. Thanks, Mike
ps: you'll love this bike!
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 21, 2013, 11:15:16 AMExhaust baffle arrived this morning and it fit perfectly. With the adjustment plate in the closed position, the exhaust still had a decent rumble to it and some punch under heavy throttle. With it open, there's a big difference in the volume but it's still below the raucous noise of the open chamber. I think it'll provide just the right amount of back pressure to keep the engine right, yet be free flowing enough to add the desired performance improvements. The fact that it's removable is an added benefit to those who are looking for the ear splitting effects of an open exhaust. I would highly recommend this baffle.
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 20, 2013, 20:43:26 PMIt just occurred to me that if I somehow managed to press the lower bearing down on the stem by an additional .5mm it would effectively raise the lower tree by the .5mm that is now present between the tree and the covers. Theory works for me. I think I'll just shim the covers and be done with it.
Posted by greenbarn
- October 20, 2013, 15:44:08 PMQuote from: Beach Bum on October 20, 2013, 12:11:31 PMI think you're right on that - I don't know why, but I've seen several for sale at what I thought was a decent price that seemed to be for sale for quite a while. I'm just glad EVERYBODY doesn't appreciate them and want them, or I couldn't afford to buy one!!Even though these bikes were made in small #'s, still seems to be a rather niche market.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- October 20, 2013, 12:20:15 PMBB understand about this part of your statement
QuoteI looked at a 04 black and the 99 red 800's the same day,The bike was immaculate when I first saw it, as was the PO's garage and Harley
The 99 was in a super clean Business shop (owner has a safety business) owner was really cool about the whole deal and just let me look over the bike and he said it had not been started in about a week. He let me start the bike after showed me the choke and suggested I use it, bike started right nice and clean. Everything about the guy was clean.
The 04, was at the guys house, end of the road in a subdivision, all nice houses, his had a 40 ft. van trailer parked next to the house. Ok a tractor trailer van next to your house in a subdivision, ok, garage was a total mess, 2 Harleys inside covered in blankets, rags, towels, floor covered in trash, Sellers buddy was inside the trailer looking for the solo seat and stock exhaust. Yard was a mess, both sides of the house were a mess. Bike did not start, he said it needed a battery, and he would knock off $100.00 the price so I could buy a battery. OK enough said......
love my Sunbeam Red Drifter 800
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 20, 2013, 12:11:31 PMQuote from: Troll on October 20, 2013, 11:21:57 AMIf you didn't loosen them, they should not have moved. Makes you wonder what the P.O did to the bike...different rotor, etc.
They were tight before I pulled them apart. Thinking I may have jogged them when adjusting for depth in the trees. The bike was immaculate when I first saw it, as was the PO's garage and Harley. No reason to think that the bike wasn't cared for. The rotor might have just been a miscue. Guess I'll just have to pull them apart again and adjust like it says to in the book. Just wish I'd noticed before buttoning everything down.
Even though these bikes were made in small #'s, still seems to be a rather niche market. I don't get the stigma on bike mileage, as from what I gather, these engines last longer than most VW Jetta mills. Most of my friends have miles on their touring bikes from actually RIDING them.
Posted by greenbarn
- October 20, 2013, 11:54:46 AMQuote from: Beach Bum on October 20, 2013, 10:38:41 AMI have no idea what you can actually get out of your bike, but just based on what I've been seeing, for 59,000 miles, with the options it has on it, If $3500 gets you what you need to get, that doesn't seem out of line from the other prices I've seen the last couple months. Of course, your biggest selling point, IMHO, should be "needs nothing". As you know a "ride-ready" bike is a lot easier to sell. Sounds like you're getting all your bugs worked out.Based on the info provided regarding sale prices I think I'll try to get $3500 for the bike and see where it goes.
Personally, though (and I think most of the others on this forum would agree) I think you should just keep it. They're not making any more.... 
. And it's a LOT sharper than a HONDA! 
Posted by Troll
- October 20, 2013, 11:21:57 AMIf you didn't loosen them, they should not have moved. Makes you wonder what the P.O did to the bike...different rotor, etc.
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 20, 2013, 10:38:41 AMQuote from: Troll on October 20, 2013, 09:56:44 AMThose 2 clamps on the fork tubes serve 2 purposes. ! and most important, they prevent the tube from moving up through the tree, and 2, they hold the lower slider covers in place. H_D uses 2 bolts per side to secure the cowbells to the lower clamp, Kaw. uses the internal clamps. Loosen the upper and lower clamp bolts a little and bounce the front end a couple of times..should fix the problem. You should do this any time on any front end to seat the tubes, anyway.
What I did was set the forks in the upper tree to .5mm below the rim of the clamp as described in the book. it's possible that the clamps moved on the tube itself because I jumped on the front end pretty good to settle the forks with the clamps loose and they did come up through the upper tree about a 1/4". If I settle the forks down on the lower covers they will then protrude too far out of the upper tree. I think I'll probably end up having to remove the forks and set the clamps to the factory spec and see where they end up.
Based on the info provided regarding sale prices I think I'll try to get $3500 for the bike and see where it goes.
Posted by greenbarn
- October 20, 2013, 10:13:54 AMHeed Troll's advice - if I remember when I had mine apart, if the lower tube covers can move up and down, then so can the fork tubes, so they need to be tight.
On prices- I can tell you I've been scouring for-sale's all over for just the right 1500 for my next bike. Something like 90-95% of what I see are between 5000 to 40,000 miles on them and I've seen asking prices between $2800 and $9000. The majority of these, say 75% of everything, are between 10-25,000 miles and most are listed (asking price) of $4-6000. It's really hard to put an "average" on something like this b/c they all have so many different features and accessories. If you're competing with the overall market, though, I've seen a lot of bikes with around 15-20,000 miles, windshield, bags, lightbar, stock seat (single or 2-up) (give or take a couple add-ons) for around $5-6000. I've seen some better deals and some poorer.
Posted by Troll
- October 20, 2013, 09:56:44 AMThose 2 clamps on the fork tubes serve 2 purposes. ! and most important, they prevent the tube from moving up through the tree, and 2, they hold the lower slider covers in place. H_D uses 2 bolts per side to secure the cowbells to the lower clamp, Kaw. uses the internal clamps. Loosen the upper and lower clamp bolts a little and bounce the front end a couple of times..should fix the problem. You should do this any time on any front end to seat the tubes, anyway.