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Read this....
The "choke" is not a choke, but just a limited hand throttle. Has no effect on fuel nixture
Nobody has mentioned this so I will..the 1500 has a choke knob, it is down on the left side and we never have to use it so that is probably why it was not mentioned, if you are new to the Drifter you may have thought the 800 t0 900 revs at idle is too slow and pulled out the choke knob..it could be as simple as pushing it back in.
John.
Have you checked the TPS voltage?
there is one thing you didn't check. It's kind of a pain to go to, but there is a vacuum line attached to the fuel pressure regulator on the intake manifold. If the diaphragm in this regulator leaks fuel (it happens with cars all the time) the engine will suck fuel straight into the the intake manifold. You don't need the engine running to check, you need to remove the vacuum line from the regulator, and check to see if there is gas in the line or coming out of the connection. If you have a vacuum pump, you can then attach it to the regulator and pump it so see if it holds a reading.
Hello!
After a long time, nothing new 
We was ckeck all senzor, all tubes, air chennel,...tester said OK.
But, problem is same. Black smoke from exthaus, sparkplugs (all four) was destroyed after cca 1000km, engine tugging 
I wsa try something, change between MAP and BARO sensor, engine work?
?
- I did not drive!
inspect, clean and tighten battery connections, power connection to fuse panel and ground connection to engine.
Quote from: Petemoss on September 18, 2013, 14:59:39 PMSorry, I did not understand exactly, what did you mean? If my engine used oil? Answer: noI'm trying to put my issues together.
Zlatko, your not using oil by chance?
Quote from: Troll on September 18, 2013, 14:38:04 PMI'm trying to put my issues together.Why? oh well, OK...
Why? oh well, OK...
There are a few things that strike me about this. First, you say the problem started last year. There are a few things that could cause this all of a sudden and does not provide any type of computer code. One of them is leaking diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator. This would cause the fuel to dump into the vacuum port on the throttle without any regulation. It may be a problem with the manifold pressure sensor. There is a vacuum hose connected to the throttle and if the hose is leaking (this is some pretty old rubber, after all), then the sensor will be asked to provide more fuel than usual. I will give this post via google translate and see if this will help with language barriers
I had to retype a few things cause the translator made it worse....
Quote from: Troll on September 15, 2013, 15:03:48 PMTroll, can you repost this in English?Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki me stavke o tem. Prvič, morate povedati problem začel lani. Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki bi lahko povzročila to povsem nenadoma in ne določa nobene vrste računalniške kode. Eden od njih je lahko slabo membrane v regulator tlaka goriva. To bi povzročilo goriva na smetišče v vakuumsko vrata na lopute brez kakršnekoli ureditve.Drugi pa je lahko problem z razdelilca senzor tlaka. Obstaja vakuumsko cev priključite na lopute in če da cev pušča (to je nekaj precej stara guma, navsezadnje), nato senzor bo računalnik vprašal, da zagotovi več goriva, kot ga ponavadi. Bom dal to objavo preko google translate, in videli, če bo to pomagalo pri jezikovnih ovir ...You are going to have to remove the fuel tank to check these things out. ANY fuel in the vacuum lines is a reason to look further. The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part, MAP sensor will have a vacuum hose on it, and the BARO sensor will not. Vacuum leaks here will cause a rich running condition without any codes.
Thank you! Google translate is not exactly, but I undestand, thank you for your effort 
I was controled also MAP and BARO connestors, contacts are clean, all rubber hoses look good...
May be, I must remove fuel tank again and check these things exactly.
There is no FI error, also self test run without errors.
Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki me stavke o tem. Prvič, morate povedati problem začel lani. Obstaja nekaj stvari, ki bi lahko povzročila to povsem nenadoma in ne določa nobene vrste računalniške kode. Eden od njih je lahko slabo membrane v regulator tlaka goriva. To bi povzročilo goriva na smetišče v vakuumsko vrata na lopute brez kakršnekoli ureditve.Drugi pa je lahko problem z razdelilca senzor tlaka. Obstaja vakuumsko cev priključite na lopute in če da cev pušča (to je nekaj precej stara guma, navsezadnje), nato senzor bo računalnik vprašal, da zagotovi več goriva, kot ga ponavadi. Bom dal to objavo preko google translate, in videli, če bo to pomagalo pri jezikovnih ovir ...You are going to have to remove the fuel tank to check these things out. ANY fuel in the vacuum lines is a reason to look further. The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part, MAP sensor will have a vacuum hose on it, and the BARO sensor will not. Vacuum leaks here will cause a rich running condition without any codes.
I test also without air filter. It is same. I was check air temparatur sensor, termostat, other sensor, everything look good. Definitively, it was wrong mixture (too much gas, a low air). When cold engine work and I add power, from exhaus come a little black smoke. The problem was not new. Something (bad mix) dastroy spark plugs. Last year with DPR7EA-9, the problem was started in october, this year with DPR6EA-9 in augist. I use 98-100 oct gasoline. With 95 in Slowenia, engine work unrested (we have bad gasloline). When I fill in Austria 95, engine work same as Slowenian 100 
My friend said, may be exhaus. I have broken exthaus (connect between catalyst and back exhaus). He said, it is FI model, may be
He drive VN 1500 with carburettor, engine work much better like my.
What petrol are you running ? 94 RON is specified , 95 is fine (easy to get (in Australia),what I use) 98 is wasted money(no improvement in performance for extra cost), don't know about 91 RON (tends to be ethanol based, and I won't touch that shit - the ethanol rather than the RON).
I use DPR6EA-9 for normal use, and DPR5EA-9 for cold weather. Normal is up to 40 C and down to 10 C, cold (for me) is below 10 Celsisus
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