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Posted by Troll
- August 04, 2013, 17:06:29 PMCheck ALL the fuses, including the one hidden in the white box near the battery.
Posted by water buffalo
- August 04, 2013, 16:54:03 PMJust re-read my post. Just to clarify, I did replace the resistor according to Jo-Bear's instructions. My understanding is that the wire with the resistor is the one that supplies power to the ecu. The main problem is that the wiring diagram shows the ecu seems to get power from several different circuits depending on what sensor it's monitoring. Makes it difficult to track down just where the problem is. I also don't know how to tell where to look since I have no way to look at the self-diagnostic signals without the FI light. I'm real close to having to take it to a shop. A slight blow to my ego, but more importantly, to my wallet.
Posted by chief
- August 04, 2013, 16:41:15 PMQuote from: water buffalo on August 04, 2013, 14:40:28 PMThe ECU does a self diagnosis...Is there a way for a layman such as myself to test the ecu to find out if it is even working?
Always look over in the mods/tips section of the web site to see if there is anything relative to your situation...
Here's the ECU info
Posted by Troll
- August 04, 2013, 16:08:34 PMThat resistor issue cost me a new fuel pump. Didn't need it, ordered it, and put it in...still no joy. The resistor is VERY important. It has to be right or the built in anti theft system won't let the pump turn on. I would look at thunder manufacturing's web site and see if the resistor's impedance is listed. I installed a new factory ign. switch, and now use my thunder switch to control the amp for my stereo.
Posted by water buffalo
- August 04, 2013, 14:40:28 PM....so, I've been reading this thread with great interest since it is dealing with the same problem I've been fighting on my '99 1500. The main difference is that I cannot determine if my ecu is actually the problem. I did find the resistor on my aftermarket ignition switch was broken. I was very excited to find this because I hoped that it was the root cause. ......not. Is there a way for a layman such as myself to test the ecu to find out if it is even working?
Just for background, I was trying to track down what I thought was a problem with the down sensor and foolishly jumped the power feed to the sensor to the signal wire to the ecu. After subsequently reading the manual (...I know, reading should come before doing. D'oh!) I realized that circuit is only supposed to have 4.4v and I fed it 12V. I thought I had fried the ecu and I may have. I found one online for a '00 Nomad. I was a 1071 and the '99 is supposed to be a 1064. Do I need to bite the bullet and pay for a new 1064 or is there a chance that the problem is elsewhere? I've checked all the fuses and they are all intact. The purchase price for a new ecu is a stretch for me right now, let alone having to pay for diagnostic labor so if I can solve it with a little help I would like to try. Not to mention the fact that my wife keeps reminding me how nice the weather has been lately and how we can't go riding.....anybody got any suggestions for specifically where I can start over?
Posted by Troll
- July 31, 2013, 15:37:46 PMHere's the wiring diagram that was posted, stitched together..now that I look again, maybe it is black and yellow....
Posted by griz01
- July 31, 2013, 15:22:56 PMOK I am confusing myself so I am going to ask, , Speedo connector pulled apart; If you hook up a DVOM, 1 Lead on the BLK/YEL wire in connector on the bike side, other lead to BAT Ground, Key on , you have no voltage. Correct?
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 31, 2013, 14:56:42 PMI can't seem to post the kaw drawings. I try again later.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 31, 2013, 12:16:26 PMSomebody posted a scan of the wiring diagram for the meter. The wire colors are, apparently not correct...that could make the trouble shooting more interesting.
Posted by griz01
- July 31, 2013, 11:58:58 AMI must be doing something wrong, the BLK/YEL wire, when I trace it leads to the Neg side of the battery. That should be ground? Looking at the colors of the wires on the speedo head; I do not even see BLK/WHT? My 99 manual does not list any BLK/WHT wires in the diagram? I see 6 wires on the Speedo head, Black & Yellow, Light Blue, Red & Black, Brown & Black, Red & Blue, and White & Yellow. Am I lost here?
Posted by Troll
- July 31, 2013, 07:39:50 AMAccording to the color coded wiring diagram, the black/white wire goes to ground, the black/yellow wire is power feed.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 30, 2013, 20:32:28 PMOil light doe's go out after starting. You're correct Gritz01, "If the meter is left upside down or sideways for any length of time, it will malfunction". It was stored face up all winter, just got buggy the other day.Dave
Posted by griz01
- July 30, 2013, 20:05:08 PMQuote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 19:24:11 PMIsn't the BLK/YEL is the ground? Have you tested the Distance sensor? if bad it your need to replace the entire head but it sure seems that is where the problem is. You said that your had the bike apart. There is a Caution in the Shop Manual that Speedo head must be stored face up, "stored upside down or sideways for any length of time it will malfunction"Oil light BETTER go off when the engine starts.....Sounds like some kind of short in the meter's P.C. board. The black/white wire is supposed to be the ground....
Posted by Troll
- July 30, 2013, 19:24:11 PMOil light BETTER go off when the engine starts.....Sounds like some kind of short in the meter's P.C. board. The black/white wire is supposed to be the ground....
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 30, 2013, 18:49:49 PMOk, I seen that one. I reconnected the speedo and taped off the Blk/Yel so I can see how fast I'm going anyway. Odd thing too is the oil light stays on prior to start then goes off when started along with no dash Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators & the fuel gauge saying it's full with the low fuel light on. Wonder if I should buy the new speedo gauge and see what works after that?
Dave