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Posted by ginmocny
- February 12, 2013, 03:07:27 AMNext oil change will definitely use synthetic oil. Had 25 mile run yesterday with no problems whatsoever. Can't wait till weather will be more bikers friendly. Oki I will better go back to work and do something. 
Posted by ChilliDrift
- February 11, 2013, 16:38:54 PMQuote from: 49Reo on February 11, 2013, 12:10:14 PMHeheheOnce a tractor, always a tractor, I guess. That being said, what is the difference between an old John Deere tractor and a Harley Davidson? Harley put the flywheels on the inside.......
49Reo
Posted by 49Reo
- February 11, 2013, 12:10:14 PMWhen I was running dino oil, whenever the bike sat for any extended period of time, like a month or longer, the little man with the hammer living in my engine would start making noise; lifters. Since I went to Kawasaki Synthetic, it can sit for 3-4 months, no noise on start-up. So, that being said, I now run synthetic and nothing else in it. Switched Frankenstein over to synthetic as well but so far haven't seen any change. Once a tractor, always a tractor, I guess. That being said, what is the difference between an old John Deere tractor and a Harley Davidson? Harley put the flywheels on the inside....... 
49Reo
Posted by chief
- February 11, 2013, 12:00:46 PMIf your bike sits in temperature extremes, use synthetic oils and/or change the oil at the beginning of every riding season. If you ride all year like I do, synthetic oils don't absorb moisture the way dino oil does... so its good for temperature extremes. This obviously doesn't do much if you have engine problems.
Posted by 49Reo
- February 11, 2013, 10:21:25 AMGlad to hear it worked out. How about the water in the oil?
49Reo
Posted by CDNRatMan
- February 11, 2013, 08:32:34 AMFingers croosed that you have it cured.......
Posted by ginmocny
- February 11, 2013, 07:47:40 AMI did ride to work today in the morning. In snow mixed with rain (traditional British weather). Engine is running smoothly, no misfiring, no knocking, looks like all is perfect. Looks like by bike is cured . Will keep you posted. 
Posted by ginmocny
- February 09, 2013, 14:34:48 PMOki we put all the parts together. Start the engine and i running more healthy already. Didn't had a chance drive it more but definitely do it tomorrow. I do hope so this milky gunk was just condensation. I will write something after long run. Have good night
Posted by 49Reo
- February 08, 2013, 20:20:55 PMAlso, if there IS water in the oil, it could be a build up from condensation; I had that problem on my 1500, when I first saw that milky grap in the sight glass, my stomach about hit my boots! So, I took it for a ride to warm it up, drained it out, new oil and filter, never saw it again. Food for thought on the milky oil.
Good luck.
49Reo
Posted by Troll
- February 08, 2013, 18:15:54 PMOk, so if this were mine, I'll tell you where I'd go first...Put it all back together, with the fresh oil, etc, but take off the rad cap. Take a health sniff of the air on the top of the rad right after you take off the cap...if you smell exhaust... Start it up and let it run on a fast idle and see if it blows water out of the radiator right away...Have you been adding coolant? Next thing would be a cylinder leak down check. You said you ordered an adapter for your compression gauge, so can you connect that adapter to a constant compressed air source? If you can get the engine on compression on the rear cyl. and put air in the in the plug hole, any compression loss will show up as bubbles in the radiator..On the bright side...800s appear to be all the same, so no hard to find parts or even a good complete engine. How many miles on this critter, anyway?
Posted by John Hopkins
- February 08, 2013, 15:44:33 PMOk I think you have serious problems..water should not get into the oil..but that milky stuff sounds like oil and water..couple that with the sparkplug problem and it sounds at least like a cylinder head gasket, probably a warped head and maybe even a crack...But whatever it is you need the engine out and stripped and that means either spend a lot of money or do a lot of work..or strip the bike and sell it as parts on ebay..for the water to mix with the oil it could have gone past the piston rings and down into the sump..
John.
Posted by ginmocny
- February 08, 2013, 14:20:22 PMOki I have strip off my bike. Took carb out, cleaned and changed o-rings in inlet manifold ( <--- probably wrong spelling). Took clutch cover off, replaced friction plates and gasket. Found some milky gunk inside clutch cover <---WTF!!!. Job for tomorrow put the carb back, put some fresh oil, oil filter and cooling liquid. I didn't have chance to check compression yet, I'm waiting for adapter for my compression tester. My question: Is it possible that clutch cover gasket been leaking and water from water pump has been slowly mixing water with oil and that could cause my problem with spark plug?
Posted by ginmocny
- February 07, 2013, 15:07:57 PMThx guys for your word of advice. Will check compression and air leak tomorrow after work. I'll post what I found.
Posted by Troll
- February 07, 2013, 13:52:08 PMI have a 1500, and my spark plugs last over 50,000 miles. If you are having an issue with the rear plug, only there are several possible causes. I saw it mentioned that the valve lash adjustment should be checked, as well as the compression...both good places to start. I believe the lash adjustment interval is 15,000 miles. Since there is only one carb feeding both cylinders, it seems unlikely that the carb would be at fault, but an intake leak could effect one cylinder. How many miles on this bike?
Posted by John Hopkins
- February 07, 2013, 12:45:46 PMI would not advise you to change or adjust anything until you have a better idea of the cause..Take a look on ebay for an engine compression tester..they don't cost very much..
Then disconnect the four plug caps and one plug from each cylinder, connect the compression tester to the front cylinder first..then turn the engine over for about five seconds..record the reading..150 psi would be nice..now test the rear cylinder..what you need is roughly the same compression in both cylinders, if the rear cylinder is a lot lower than the front I'm afraid you have a serious engine fault..if they are both the same you have an easy carburetta fault.
John.