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Posted by chief
- January 29, 2013, 12:22:47 PMAND, the recommended plugs are usually gapped properly out of the box. If you have fiddled around with those electrodes - gapping and re-gapping, I'd strongly suggest a new set.
Posted by ChilliDrift
- January 29, 2013, 03:46:47 AMSeems like most issues have simple resolutions most of the time. These bikes are tough.
Posted by Troll
- January 28, 2013, 19:28:14 PMAll's well that ends well
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 28, 2013, 17:53:00 PMIm an idiot, I didn't realize the gap was suppose to be metric and not standard, so never mind all is well then lol
Posted by chief
- January 28, 2013, 16:48:29 PMThose plugs should be gapped properly out of the box... .08-.09 mm.
Posted by John Hopkins
- January 28, 2013, 13:52:29 PMYou did notice what Troll said about the sparkplug gap..the reason I ask is because it is unusual for an American to be measuring in metric..
John.
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 28, 2013, 05:51:26 AMHaven't had time right check the thread or the coils yet but I tried the exam jumper wire when I was ha king Trouble and it gave no codes
Posted by chief
- January 25, 2013, 18:12:59 PMDid you ever do an ECU check? These don't just "throw" an error code, you have to make it show you the codes... if there is a coil problem that would show up in that check.
Posted by 49Reo
- January 23, 2013, 14:36:08 PMIs it possible this problem could be a failure of the electronic ignition system? I am not familiar with the technical aspect of the ignition system on these bikes, other than that it is electronic. Years ago, on a 1977 GMC pickup I had, it started to run rough, then one cylinder dropped out; running on seven cylinders. Everyone said "oh, no, can't be the ignition module, they either work or don't." Well, I had a spare, so put it in and all was well. Just food for thought; some one like Troll or Chief could probably give a definitive answer on the electronic ignition question.
What do you think, guys?
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by chief
- January 23, 2013, 14:21:36 PMMy "bad" NEW battery tested fine on the bench, but failed under load. That is VERY rare on a new battery, but you cannot discount it until its load tested.
Usually the cause for weak spark is a bad coil, but you REALLY want to inspect and test everything before you assume you have a coil problem. Good time to get a repair manual... there is an ignition system troubleshooting guide in there.Posted by DC
- January 22, 2013, 06:51:04 AMSo it has to be an ignition problem then?
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 22, 2013, 04:07:54 AMThanks, ill give it a shot, anyone know what the resistance of the plug wires should be?
Its a brand new agm battery (manufactured 12/12), i checked it before i left the store (with a midtronics tester, the same as i have at work)
Posted by chief
- January 22, 2013, 00:01:17 AMweak spark...? (I replaced a battery a couple of years ago and still had problems... the NEW battery ended up being bad. ) If you aren't getting a nice fat blue spark in properly gapped plugs - and you don't think its the battery... check the plug wires and plug caps. A lot of times these can be faulty without outward signs. There is some reason why your ignition system isn't delivering good spark to those plugs.
Posted by waltervl
- January 21, 2013, 04:57:58 AMJust a thought: When starting with extra battery (jump start) is working but without not, perhaps the wiring to the spark plugs is failing somewhere? Did you check that?
Posted by Aaron Mitchell
- January 21, 2013, 01:41:26 AMngk DPR6EA-9