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Color first, then butter, then protectant....all about a week or so apart or so to let them really soak in and set. You have to color the leather, which tends to actually harden it, then add the softening agents which tends to bring it back to where it was (let it really soak in), then the protectant to preserve it. I've used tons of products over the years, from mink oils to dyes, but the chillhowee ( http://www.chilhowee.net/leather_care_products.html ) system seems to be the most comprehensive and straightforward system I've come across.
Quote from: pcarrell on January 02, 2013, 19:34:09 PMPC, to follow up on an old post: On your bi-yearly treatment, do you use all three of these products in that order?? Then, do you use the waterproofer/conditioner on top of those three, or do you use it at a different time?? I already use the 303 on vehicle interiors, so have some. I sent for the auburn and buffalo products upon your recommendations here. I sure hope it works as advertised, or I might be on here wanting to see about that money-back guarantee...The leather gets a bi-yearly treatment of Chilhowee Buffalo Butter, Auburn Leather Color Restorer, and 303 Anti-Fade Protectant ..I've been working leather for 30+ years and this is top quality stuff!). Once a year the leather gets a treatment of Auburn Leather Weatherproofer/Conditioner.
That's how I do it.
Quote from: Drift1 on January 03, 2013, 08:53:10 AMExactly! It works great to cut through grease and road grime on the lower part of the frame, rims, and engine. It's especially great for the engine too where you have tight spaces. You can get a paper towel or Q-tips(tm) in those tight spots and the grease and grime just come right off with no effort.DC,pledge ah....that's interesting.....what parts did you use it on?Underside,rims etc...
Thanks Bake,for the tips...definately has been useful info.I see now how you sneak out on "MISS PROM QUEEN"...set mama up in her chair...with the remote and credit card....turn on QVC...and you can ride the weekend away...and not even be missed
..Now that's an idea!
...LOL....Thanks again Bake
Drift1, Bio Cleaner is the name of the product, My wife got it for me from QVC (Go figure) It works great on the under carriage as well, She got it to remove grease and grime from the stove top, Apply it with the applicator then rinse with a hose or wet cloth, Works great removing the brake dust on the rear rim. Here's the link to QVC... http://www.qvc.com/Bio-Cleaner-Multi-Purpose-Cleaner-and-Microfiber-4-piece-Kit.product.V30476.html
PS, A little bit goes a long way! I've had a tub of this for two years and barely put a dent in it!
Also "Blue Coral Car Wash" removes most grease and grime.
Great info,Bake.That Mr.Clean sure is a multi tool,but that makes since about getting scratches that will eventually turn into a dirt collector.Thanks about the Dawn tip didn't realize it was taking the oils out of the paint.Like I said earlier I read that Dawn was most recommended...guess that's what seperates us Drifter riders from the rest of the pack
..LOL....Is there a certain brand or name of the Bio Cleaner,Bake or is that is the name?What is the recommendation for the under carriage ,any type of spray on degreasers?Thanks for the iinput and help Bake
PC, You won't be disappointed, They're GR8!
QuoteNever thought of that....might be the way to go!Mr Clean magic white erasers
Drift1, I would refrain from using Dawn Dish Detergent on any painted surface as it is a degreaser and will take the oil out of the paint regardless of flat or gloss., As for cleaning or taking the blue off whitewalls, I wouldn't use any abrasives, Steel wool bristle brush etc. as they tend to put scratches in the rubber even if minute it will allow dirt to build up in the scratches and make it harder to clean later on, Mr Clean magic white erasers are very effective, I also use Bio-Cleaner which is a clay paste for my whitewalls and rims which does a great job and doesn't scratch. With regards to my windshield I use "Plexus" after warm soapy water (Blue Coral Car Wash) I always wash the bike with Blue Coral in a bucket of warm water then use Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell every third wash, In between I just wipe the bike with a damp microfiber cloth and use "TopShelf" final detail spray wax (sprayed on a microfiber and wiped on then buffed) in between waxes. For the leather I user "Rejuvenate Auto" leather/vinyl cleaner then "Rejuvenate" conditioner. As for the chrome... Nothing like painstaking good ol' Turtle Wax chrome polish... Wipe it on in a circular motion... Buff it off with a terry cloth rag (old school sometimes is the best) PS I also use the "Plexus" on the blinkers as they are plastic (It really does a nice job on any plastic or glass surface) I detail the bike at least every other month during peak riding here in Pa (It's a labor of love) Generally it takes me 2 1/2 to 3 hrs, I put her on the lift... Throw in a CD... Crack a beer and make Evelyn pretty enough to be a "Prom Queen" Don't know if this'll help you but it works for me.
Kit Includes: 1ea Pre Wax Cleaner and Conditioner (12 oz), 1ea Deep Black Carnauba Wax (12 oz), 2ea Black Spray Detailers (12 oz) and 2ea Applicator Pads
You'll probably want to have a few soft but disposable towels on hand too.
That's not terrible...what's the kit consist of?Some app.pads and such.
I want to say it was around $20-$25 bucks.
This product looks like it works well.Going to add it to the weekend to do list,if our town Pep Boys has it available.Thanks for that little clip,PC.What's the cost of that running,theres about?
Here's a decent review of the product http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wtOXtZrMdk
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