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Posted by waltervl
 - September 29, 2011, 05:59:32 AM
Posted by chief
 - September 28, 2011, 14:02:46 PM

Mods/tips - Brake/Clutch...

http://www.VulcanDrifterRiders.com/reviewpost/showcat.php/cat/67
The MS spring plate is a discontinued spring used on 2004 MS's. It was beefed up because it used only one holder. if you ask for a MS spring now, without the part number they will give you the current spring which is used for all 1500 and 1600's. So if you get that one, ensure you have the part number. Some folks like it, I don't think its necessary, but its a personal decision... like a lot of stuff on our drifters!
Look at the parts diagram for any 2005 or later 1500 or 1600 and you will see the holders.
Posted by rawv
 - September 27, 2011, 03:59:56 AM

Chief, I'm going to order the parts I need for my clutch rebuild such as new disks,  spring,gasket.. I still dont know about this  double holder that they speak of since I  dont want to tear it down until I get all the parts and I cant find any pics of this holder..also should I get the Meanstreak spring setup and if so what years fit ..I couldnt find the parts list that you mentioned..I know I'm probably making this harder than  it is but I just want to have all the correct parts on hand for when I tear it apart  and get it back together again at the same time without loosing parts.. again its a 99 1500 drifter with 33,00 miles on it .     Thanks    Rick

Posted by chief
 - September 25, 2011, 16:11:20 PM

Go to the web site and find the clutch parts list. The spring plate is held by a holder. Older 1500 and 1600 vulcans only had one... now theyh have 2. I think the stronger spring and double holder setup negates the need for judges washers, but others like them.

Posted by rawv
 - September 25, 2011, 11:40:08 AM

Chief you mentioned a double holder in the clutch and  I'm not sure what that is ..and also is it a plus adding Judges washers .. I just want to do this right when I tear the clutch apart because this isnt something I've done before.     Thanks   Rick

Posted by rawv
 - September 24, 2011, 19:42:08 PM

Thanks I wasnt sure if I needed to do anything with the steels..but I think I'm going to D.A. them as Troll had mentioned .    Thanks   Rick

Posted by Troll
 - September 24, 2011, 19:09:28 PM

When ever I replaced the kevlar disks in the clutch of my hot rod SuperGlide, which was around 50,000 miles each time, I'd D.A. the steels, as long as they were flat. If they showed any warp, I replaced them....Using a D.A. on them is like turning a rotor before putting in new brake pads...breaks the glaze and allows the material to seat faster...old habits, I guess. Barnett recommended it to me when I told them I was having trouble with the new Kevlar plates chattering. I never did it with H-D factory plates, but it sure helped with the Barnetts...Take it for what it's worth...maybe not necessary with a full oil bath clutch.

Posted by chief
 - September 24, 2011, 18:20:55 PM

I've never glass beaded... I measure and replace if out of spec.

Posted by rawv
 - September 24, 2011, 14:36:40 PM

Hey thanks you guys for the help..Badboy no I didnt check the reservoir but I am going to get a syringe and clean that out. Also when I replace the clutch should I glassbead the steel disks or just leave them alone.   Thanks  Rick

Posted by badboy194
 - September 23, 2011, 21:32:44 PM
Quote from: rawv on September 22, 2011, 06:43:43 AM

I changed the fluid and it was just like mud in the bottom of the resevoir it had to be changed but didnt make a differance its still slipping.. so now do i just change the springs or the whole clutch .     Thanks      Rick

Rick, Did you notice if the little pin hole on the bottom towards the front of the reservoir was clogged?  If you had sludge on the bottom the pinhole had to be clogged.  That was my problem.  I came back from a ride when it was slipping and used a syringe to take the fluid out.  I took a long needle and cleaned the hole out.  When I did that the pressure shot up a thin stream of fluid 3 inches high.  I had everything on the bike covered over so no paint damage.  Basically what was happening is the clutch would work for several minutes until it heated up.  Then the fluid would expand and with the hole (pressure relief) clogged it would act like the clutch was being pulled in .  The faster I went the easier it would disengage.
Posted by chief
 - September 22, 2011, 11:41:17 AM

Well never open up the box and NOT inspect your clutch plates. You need to measure them to determine whether or not they need to be replaced. When I replaced my spring and holders, I went ahead and replaced the friction plates anyway... they were within spec, but another season or two and I'd have to do it anyway. I bought aftermarket plates, and used the new kaw spring and double holders.

Also, as you likely know, the clutch master cylinder cup and dust seal and the slave cylinder piston seal should be replaced every 4 years.

Posted by rawv
 - September 22, 2011, 06:43:43 AM

I changed the fluid and it was just like mud in the bottom of the resevoir it had to be changed but didnt make a differance its still slipping.. so now do i just change the springs or the whole clutch .     Thanks      Rick

Posted by chief
 - September 21, 2011, 12:15:22 PM

The most likely cause is a weakened clutch spring. Earlier drifters had a weak spring and single holder. I would suggest you do a search here for the original post on clutch spring... and there is some mod info over on the web site.  I recommend using the current oem spring and the two holders that go with it. This gives you the same system as all current 1500 and 1600's. There are other options as well.

Posted by Troll
 - September 20, 2011, 18:24:15 PM

D.O.T. 4 brake fluid....not 3, and definitely not 5

Posted by rawv
 - September 20, 2011, 18:22:31 PM

I HAVE ABOUT 32,000 ON IT AS OF NOW AND IT SEEMS TO HAVE JUST STARTED SLIPPING..SO IS THERE A CLUTCH FLUID OR JUST RUN BRAKE FLUID  I WASNT SURE ..IT LOOKS CLEAR BUT I'M GOING TO CHANGE IT ANYWAY.      THANKS     RICK

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