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Posted by drifter-paul
- March 19, 2025, 03:21:19 AMMaybe ease back Renxerox , as Mitico68 suggests .
I've had a shit time de-rusting my tank and made a mistake I would not normally make , because I was trying to hurry the process .
- Had a few long days and am tired, but will to read the post stream again tomorrow .
I see two options but want to consider the history again, in case I make an inane comment that has already been covered .
Chill, collectively we solve it in the end .
Posted by mittico68
- March 18, 2025, 03:55:34 AMIt's very frustrating to face problems that seem like havin' no way out, while you'd like to jump on your scoot and just go riding...
Keep on tryin'!
Posted by ranxerox
- March 17, 2025, 14:02:14 PMI'm ready to tap out....
I purchased a new ECM, everything works now...pump, etc. EXCEPT for the starter. Before putting the ECM on, the starter rolled without a problem.
I'm thinking of stripping it down and going over every connection with a wire-brush. I just can't think of anything else.
I'm stumped....
Posted by ranxerox
- March 11, 2025, 08:56:06 AMdrifter-paul Ignition is good. I cleaned all the contacts and reassembled it. It works fine.
Interesting thing happened while I was checking my ignition. I had purchased another Denso relay for the fuel pump, I installed it and the fuel pump ran, then stopped. Normal. I turned over the motor, and the pump did not come back on. I checked the voltage coming from the relay and it was around 1.4-1.7 volts. Weird.
Posted by ranxerox
- March 04, 2025, 08:55:00 AM@drifter-paul
Nothing but the key on the ignition, never had more than 1, but I'll test it.
I'll pull the ignition and test it and see.
Thanks!!
Posted by drifter-paul
- March 04, 2025, 03:36:09 AMUnless I've missed something, you do not appear to have discounted the ignition key yet ?
I'd use "Ron Ayers Kawasaki Parts" to find what other VN1500 have that switch and ask an owner to borrow his/her one . The ignition has White, grey, blue and red wires running up to a connector in the V of the frame tubes towards the front and under the tank. With small hands , you could get away with someone else just undoing the rear tank bolt that the seat slots into, and lifting up the arse end of the tank to get access to the lower left front.
My fuel pump would kick in with the twist of the Ignition key, but thumbing the starter would overload the connection when the starter spun up .
Cheaper than an ECU .
Do you have a heap of keys hanging off your Ignition key ?
Just a thought
Posted by ranxerox
- March 03, 2025, 11:00:47 AM@Troll
I ran the pump directly. It works. I ran a ground to the proper circuit, and nothing. The relay still works, but the signal isn't getting to the pump. ECM is toast, I believe, unless I'm missing something.
I'll look for one on eFlay.
Thank you all.
Posted by Troll
- March 01, 2025, 10:07:11 AMJust in case you (and others) were wondering, the standard for computer controlled devices is for the computer to ground the component, not supply power. The quad driver transistor cannot handle the heavy electrical load of B+ but the ground is a very low amperage load, and easily tolerated.
Posted by ranxerox
- February 28, 2025, 09:17:15 AMGotcha.
Posted by Troll
- February 27, 2025, 18:57:35 PMJust be sure to ground the correct side, or you will blow the fuel pump fuse. It's a two wire plug, under the speedo nacelle.
Posted by ranxerox
- February 27, 2025, 17:54:59 PM@Troll. I'll do that. Sorry about the Newbish questions, but I've been chasing this damned thing for a few months and I don't seem to have an affinity for electronics.
Posted by Troll
- February 27, 2025, 17:52:29 PMJust put a ground lead to the ground side of the pump and see if it starts. If everything else is ok, and the starter turns, the only thing missing would be fuel pressure.
Posted by ranxerox
- February 27, 2025, 11:02:21 AMHey Troll, thanks for the intel. Would replacing the ignition switch fix that problem? Or, cleaning the contacts?
If the voltage is low on that 31 pin, would it be part of the low voltage issue on the others?
If you don't know, I still really appreciate your input.
Ken
Posted by Troll
- February 27, 2025, 07:39:30 AMThe pump is grounded through the ECM. The ECM will ground the pump if it sees a low voltage signal on the pin listed as unused, 29, as I remember. You can bypass this by simply running the ground wire from the pump to an appropriate grounding point, and the pump will run. The big difference is that the 2 second prime function will no longer work, but the pump will run constantly, as it normally does when the engine is running. The missing voltage signal from the ign. switch is supposed to be an anti-theft device. Jumping the ign switch to power will not supply this signal to the ECM. This is hard won information. I had to find this out when the aftermarket (previous owner) ign switch inline resistor failed and left me walking.
Posted by ranxerox
- February 26, 2025, 17:00:59 PMHi, I appreciate your replies.
Clutch, kickstand and engine kill switch all check out with continuity.
Female pins are tight and intact.
Starter works now that the relay/solenoid has been replace.
Fuel pump has shut off and stayed off, although the relay works. I will be pulling it and checking it directly.
Ignition switch provides power to all locations I've checked. I am open to hearing tests I don't about, as learning is why I'm here.
I did check the ECU with the needle test probes and per the shop manuals ECU test procedure, it isn't showing the correct voltage for the 31 connection. I don't wanna buy a new ECU, but it's looking that way. Again, I come here to learn, so if anyone has had this issue, lay it on me.