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Just read through your problems with the scoot...I'm glad you sorted it. Well done!
yeah great job! Now get out there and clock some miles on her, or kilometers 
Good to hear that bike running 
And here's the video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0uHvlz7df4
Brief update.
I finally ended the assembly of the whole ignition harness, but before it I've changed the OEM resistor with a brand new one, as it was really in bad conditions and I didn't like to risk ignition failures...
BTW, if you should ever decide to go with the same solution of mine, remember that the resistor that goes on the grey wire MUST be a 100 ohm AND 1/2 watt: that's mandatory, just to let the igniter receive NOT more than 6 volts, otherwise it WON'T start...
P.S.: A short video will come soon...
Thank you guys, for your kind words.
This Forum is full of empathy... 
Great news, Mitt!! I'm happy for you that you got it running, and the brake light was an easy fix. Way to go, Bro....
Marco, I've been following this post and I'm glad that you've solved the mystery! Hat's off to you for sticking with it and figuring it out! Now ride that beautiful Drifter! 
Quote from: Tfrank59 on May 12, 2019, 10:08:01 AMWell you're going to be the go-to guy from now on on electrical I hope you know that. So don't sell your Drifter because we'll still need you for a few years around here
I'm not worried, at all, because even though someone should ever ask me something, I would just answer: "I'm a lucky guy, because of the VDR Forum, where you can find all the answers you need for your Drifter...". 
BTW: I don't think I'll ever sell ma-deuce. It's 20 years since I bought her, back in july 1999, and I'm still in love with her! Geez, if my wife should ever hear me...
Well you're going to be the go-to guy from now on on electrical I hope you know that. So don't sell your Drifter because we'll still need you for a few years around here 
Thank you guys, for all your camaraderie!
I've checked the fuses box and it came out that the brake light 10A fuse was blown up... So, for once in my (electrician) life, I was damn right! 
I've then double checked the (damn) whole thing and everything's OK. 
Now, before get ma-deuce back on the road, I'm gonna solder each and every connection, put on some silicon insulating spray and then add heatshrink wraps.
After that, I will mount the HD ignition switch on the dashboard and get rid of the old OEM one!
In the meanwhile, I'm gonna solder the Indian taillight's connections and then mount this nice and cool light on ma-deuce.
And finally, I'll be ready to ROCK! 
P.S.: I wanna really thank Robf, Greenbarn, Troll, Texasdrifter and Tfrank, for all their helpful infos and tips, without wich I could never have reached the finish line!
Thanx again, buds! 
Right on Mitt!! Good for you for sticking with it!
It seems like our minds work about the same. Before I retired I would take my work related problems home to bed with me and usually at about 4 or 5 in the morning my subconscious would come up with an answer. Funny how the brain works.
The brake light should be an easy fix for you now, especially now that you are an electrical expert. 
Just follow the wiring diagram and use your volt meter at every junction. Doesn't matter at what end of the system you start at. I prefer to start at the power source and work my way down. It's like betting red or black at the Roulette Wheel....... got a 50/50 chance 
Rob
Well congrats on finally getting the thing to fire up! now chase down the tail light problem--start with the fuse
--and then get out there and put some miles on the clock!
Good news.
Last night I was mumblin' about the issue, while tryin' to sleep, and suddenly the light came on: why not try to put the OEM resistor on the grey wire of the damn thing? 
So the day after I did it and... the engine fired up! YES, it did! 
Now I can finally end the job.
And these are my conclusions, about the issue:
- the new resistor I had put in the grey wire was not a 100 ohm: and indeed, comparing its bands with the ohm scale, I can see it is a 100000 ohm (look at pic, please)! 
- the OEM resistor is a 100 ohm, and this allows the 12v flow to fall to 5v: this lets the igniter to work properly.
- WHY DIDN'T I THINK BEFORE ABOUT THAT SIMPLE SOLUTION?

That said, now I must try to solve the other issue that I faced, while attemptin' at the main problem: the brake light is not workin'.
I bet it depends on the taillight fuse: I haven't checked it out, yet, but I think that it could have blown up when I tried to start the engine without the resistor on the grey wire...
THe soap opera still goes on!
Any thought would be much appreciated.
Just checked my bike again and had 5.8v just with key on and climbed to 7 v while running (Grey wire at key to main harness connector).
Looked again in my tech manual and can't find anything about testing that grey wire.
I found this in a Vulcan Forum:
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 126
I am with Sfair on this one. You say you no longer have the original ignition switch, which makes me assume you have used the Harley clone switch in the tank console. At this point I would condemn that switch( cause I had one fail, poor contact internally). I would at this point short the white wire to the brown and grey( keeping in mind that you NEED the 100 ohm resistor on the grey upstream of the ecu). I had to do this this past summer to bypass an ignition switch failure and lo and behold it ran
Maybe if you hunt around you can find more info. Looks like the main issue is to somehow get that lower voltage on the grey wire.
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