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Posted by rob f
 - May 11, 2018, 17:46:54 PM

Thanks for the heads up on SW. Just thought I would check it out for price.
Will be staying with sprockets.
On that note........... I have just returned from a little putt after changing the front 18t back to the 17t and VERY happy to report that the matching of speeds and rpms are manageable for me and the bike. First gear is a little easier to start off in and the higher gears can pull me out of low speeds alot easier. 5th is now workable to  slow-cruise  down at 90kph vs 110kph with the 18t. The speeds are perfect for my back roads and in town. Haven't had it on any super speedways yet but am guessing that I could hold it at 120-130 with no problem. Hills and wind are another story. This machine is hugely affected ( powerwise) by wind but physically doesn't flinch even in heavy gusts.
R

Posted by CDNRatMan
 - May 11, 2018, 13:52:44 PM

rob f; please listen to OR_Seedman. Yes I am a sprocket swap guy but I am not trying to dissuade from going to a belt. But I also ordered and it has been so long now that I for got what it was but Scootworks still owes me $50.00 and I also never got my part..... so I am not a fan of theirs and it has only been 2 years or so........
I also know we have a couple of belt fans here on the site. When I first bought my Drifter I contemplated a belt drive for mine, but the cost back then was closer to $1000.00 vice the cost of 2 sprockets and a chain so that was $350.00 if you bought all top of the line parts. Also back then a lot was written about the front sprocket on a belt drive having uneven wear as the sprocket was not lined up directly to the belt. There was a lot of negativity towards the belts, and so I went chain, but if you can find a good belt then go for it...but be aware of scootworks as you can check out on out in out suppliers and parts area....located here: https://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?board=25.0

Posted by OR Seedman
 - May 11, 2018, 11:10:29 AM

robf...I think that I can speak for most of us here that you need to be really careful when dealing with Scootworks.....they take your money and then take MONTHS to deliver (if they even deliver it to you at all).  You get tons of excuses and lies regarding anything you order (they are at paint, just starting a new run...etc, etc,)  Many here have had to charge back on credit cards   and forget about it if you send them a check.....once in a while they get things done correctly, but you should really check the rip-off reports online before you purchase anything from them....MHO

OR Seedman

Posted by rob f
 - May 11, 2018, 07:42:47 AM

Just checked scootworks out on the belt conv. Looks like about $600 US.
Interesting fact I found was that the belt conv equates to a 18/40 sprocket combo. In theory when I go back to the 17t I should be running the same rpms and speeds as the belt drive.
R

Posted by rob f
 - May 11, 2018, 07:28:30 AM

 A belt would sure be a lot cleaner.
Had a heritage softail with a belt and can't say anything bad about it except that I was always worried about little stones getting flipped in whilst on gravel roads. I have about 3 miles of gravel before i hit pavement.
I am going to check into the cost though. Thanks.
Rob

Posted by Zoar
 - May 10, 2018, 14:43:05 PM
Quote from: rob f on April 28, 2018, 09:11:17 AM

I have done the 18/38 sprocket swap and just finished my first highway ride. I was not impressed.
Now , I am sure  this comment will get a lot of VDR member's panties in a knot but hear me out.
I needed to change out the sprockets and chain anyway so I will not be asking GB for a refund as Ratman had suggested in an earlier post ;D
Some background info first: I have not ridden this bike with the stock sprockets it came with, as I just bought it Dec2017. The bike is pretty much stock except for a k/n filter, so hp is pretty much factory. Most of my roads are 90kph to 120kph (55mph-75mph). My personal comfort zone is around 105kph (65mph) These are my shifting speeds with the 18/38 conversion......
1-2 @40k/25m
2-3 @ 70k/45m
3-4 @95k/60m
4-5 @110k/68m
Does this shifting range sound right to you other 18/38'rs?

My experience: Took it on a 2hr run on the hyway into a strong crosswind. Could not hold it @ 110k/68m in 5th gear on any kind of hill. Ran it most of the way in 4th @ 105k/65m and on occasion had to dump it into 3rd on a very steep hill. The bike seems to be running fine and has new plugs.  New properly inflated tires and I only weigh 170lbs ,solo, no luggage.

Bottom line:  For my riding conditions the stock 800cc's cannot handle the 18/38 conversion . Also am finding that I am feathering the clutch too much at start up and also braking too much coming into intersections. 1st is way to tall for my liking.
I will try the cheap route first and change the front back to 17t. May be just enough. If not, I will have a pair of slightly used 18/38 sprockets for sale.
R

I guess I'll chime in because when I bought my bike it had the BELT conversion in it. I have not had any of the issues of low power as you describe. I also did not and do not have the stock exhaust. I can say that the recent custom exhaust I had put on my bike did improve even more the power, slightly but I did notice an enhancement.

I like the belt. It may be your answer, too.

Posted by roger hendrickson
 - May 10, 2018, 13:12:38 PM

No judgements here, fellas, just the facts.....per our local Kawi dealer:  "We have changed several  800 Classics to a 38T rear, but they started with a 42T rear. Customers all love it!"   (That computes to a 10.5% change from stock.)  He then told me that one tooth (17 up to 18) on the front would yield 6% RPM drop, about 250 RPM through the whole range. Two teeth on the rear (42 down to 38) is another 5% change from stock. As it turns out, I have to consider my surroundings before I go 18/38, like elevation (about 1560 feet @ local airport), flat terrain (if I get up on an 8' stepladder, I can see Saskatchewan), and the elements (30 MPH is just a nice breeze). Decisions, decisions!

Posted by rob f
 - May 02, 2018, 08:11:23 AM

I did see the baffelectomy posting a while back and when I had my pipe off this winter,I had a look.
Because it was an irreversible procedure I decided to not do it until I rode it for a bit.
May have to revisit that post.
R

Posted by mittico68
 - May 02, 2018, 05:42:05 AM
Quote from: rob f on May 01, 2018, 18:14:10 PM

Thanks for the info Tom. I hate to get rid of the OEM exhaust as that big fishtail is what always catches my eye first. For now, the bike is for looks and not hyway power. I am sure that most of my loss is that pipe. And ofcourse if I change it then it's off to jet the carb. Maybe a project for next winter.
I've been tinkering on it for 4 months and now it's time for cruisin'
R

If I can chime in, I just wanna say that I got rid of the OEM exhaust by changing it with a homemade one.
That said, the first thing I felt when I rode her after the mod was a huge improving of performance: I didn't have any eletctronic instruments, that was just my own feeling. But believe me: it made me ride with a big, enormous smile upon my face!
BTW: I've been riding with the 2up configuration, too and I've never felt any lack of power with the 5th gear on. I guess it all dipends on the rpm's your running...
Just my 2 cents.

Posted by Tfrank59
 - May 02, 2018, 00:28:59 AM

 I must admit it's an attractive looking stock exhaust, in fact I remember when I first got my bike lamenting that the previous owner got rid of it. Of course my mod was to put fish tails back on there two of them. Anyway concerning yours you could consider de-baffling it, I think there's some posts about it on this forum and that might loosen her up a little and give you more power. Of course I totally hear you about just wanting to ride cuz that's about all I wanna do now that our weather here is really improving.

Posted by rob f
 - May 01, 2018, 18:14:10 PM

Thanks for the info Tom. I hate to get rid of the OEM exhaust as that big fishtail is what always catches my eye first. For now, the bike is for looks and not hyway power. I am sure that most of my loss is that pipe. And ofcourse if I change it then it's off to jet the carb. Maybe a project for next winter.
I've been tinkering on it for 4 months and now it's time for cruisin'
R

Posted by Tfrank59
 - May 01, 2018, 10:53:30 AM

 Based on your description and the contrast between your bike's performance and, well, everybody else's, I think you may have a problem with low power. You're running stock exhaust, correct?  I've never had the stock exhaust on my Drifter but I know which exhaust a bike has has a huge impact on horsepower and I also know that the emissions laws require that basically all stock exhausts be fairly constipated in terms of noise and back pressure.  And then there's the carb jetting, which I think you said in another post you were thinking about doing – I know for my bike that made all the difference, because with the stock settings my bike ran so lean it was basically anemic, and once I did the Dynojet kit she's run like a scalded dog.  So for me it was a combination of getting the exhaust right, then getting the carb tuned correctly and finally adding the K&N filter, and now she's running at full power.

Just a note about your gearing, since you indicated you will go back to the 17 tooth countershaft sprocket, I think that's a good plan. You can always switch back to the 18 if you want, but seems like if you find it's too tall with the 18 tooth then just go back to stock.

Lastly, the other thing that's made a big difference in my riding (specifically how much I'm revving the engine) is having an electronic tach.  They are quite inexpensive and easy to install -- search the posts.  once I realized I was shifting at 3000-3500 RPMs (which is where one might upshift a bigger bike, like a 1500cc) and that I could easily take it to 4000-4500, I've been getting peak performance out of her especially on hills, and not even getting close to redline which is more like 6500 RPMs.

Posted by rob f
 - May 01, 2018, 08:10:12 AM

Shouldn't be any variation in bikes from the production line. It's when the owners create variations.
Mine, from what I can tell only had a K&N filter installed so should be close to stock.
After reading all the comments here I am starting to think that I  may have a power issue with the bike. There is no way in hell that I could do 2 up in 5th. Maybe I am running 5th too low in its new range? I shift in at 110k/68mph? is this too low? should I be running it at 120-130 to get in the power band?
I couldn't get a compression reading as the spark plugs threads are smaller than my gauge fittings.Didn't check the valves either and don't know what main jet is in the carb.
With only 25,000kms on the bike and my gut feeling on how it runs, I mentally eliminated a power issue. Still, I am installing a new 17t and see how it acts.
Guys,thanks for all the input ( both ways).
R

Posted by greenbarn
 - April 30, 2018, 21:57:14 PM

I rode my 800 for about a year or so when I got it, with the stock setup.  Like some others, I was constantly looking for an extra gear, and real uncomfortable going 70 MPH, feeling like the bike is buzzing and screaming.  After switching, I have had no issues with the gearing being too high- no problems I can think of in hills, lack of power or what not.  I even rode it 2-up for quite a while before I got the 1500, and 1st still seemed plenty low for me, with a passenger.  So , I guess it's been said, to each their own.  I suppose there might be that much variation between bikes, too.

Posted by rob f
 - April 29, 2018, 22:27:09 PM

Ratman......recycling the cycle.
I like it!

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