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► Modify message ( Re: 1500 Cranks Only/NO START, Lots of New parts????? )

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Reason for editing: Last Edit: October 06, 2016, 13:02:00 PM by Trall

[quote author=Trall link=topic=43945.msg98348#msg98348 date=1475775401]

[/quote]

I just checked and found the tip over switch.  It was never moved only the gas tank.   The tip over switch is in front of the battery box and just under the front washer bolt for the seat to slide into.  The bottom gas tank bolt is in front of seat washer bolt so the tip over switch was always in the same spot.

I tried to start the bike again and after a third try and about to give up it started for about 10 seconds and died, tried again and it started for 10 seconds and the FI light stayed ON but died.  I tried to start it again and FI light still ON and died after 10 seconds.  Tried to start again and battery stopped trying to crank. Its seems about dead.   Electrical still turns on.

Its a unknown age on battery and since I just got bike it the one part thats not new.

I went to run a jumper wire from ECU to neg battery term. and count the flashes for a code but after removing battery to pull out ECU and then reconnecting battery the FI light reset and is off again from removing the battery I guess.  When you turn key on it lights up and goes out.

I can only get a few cranks on battery now and its dead.

So I am going to get a new battery today and see what happens after that.........

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Topic summary

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 12:36:41 PM

Quote from: JagLite on October 06, 2016, 12:19:31 PM

Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly? I am not sure what or where thats at. I don't see anything at the rear gas tank mount........

I have a 2001 so maybe its located somewhere else?

Posted by JagLite

- October 06, 2016, 12:19:31 PM

Thumb kill switch on?

No spark points to an electrical problem to me.

Test each fuse, don't just look at it, some can burn and still look perfect.

Did you install the tip over switch at the rear tank mount correctly?

Do you have a multi-meter to check the electrical system?
if so, check voltage/resistance to the coils, through the coils, and to the spark plug caps.
Do you have the shop manual that gives the specs and instructions for where/how to check?
I have the Haynes (?) manual and it has quite a bit of diagnostic information.

Even new parts can be defective unfortunately.

Posted by Pilgrim

- October 06, 2016, 11:33:53 AM

The FI light should stay on until the bike starts...check that fuse mentioned in this thread.

http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=18326.0

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 09:48:10 AM

Yes the fuel pump always turns on when the key is turned

Posted by Pilgrim

- October 06, 2016, 09:37:49 AM

fuel pump not working? ..do you hear it when you turn key on?

Posted by Trall

- October 06, 2016, 09:11:16 AM

This is my last hope / shot in the dark before I have to spend money and tow my 2001 1500 to a mechanic. I have limited electrical knowledge.

My bike back in July after washing it very well had a Ignition Coil bad code showing on the FI light and confirmed by ECU. Around the same time my tank and fenders where coming off and going to the painters shop for appt.

Since I had the bike stripped down decided this was best time to fix bad coil. After price shock paid OEM $250+ for Left and Right coils that come with wires and bought new plug boots. SO all those parts new. New Spark plugs checked gap and all fine. Took my time since I had plenty of it and stalled all the parts with new.

My painter was severely late and changed completion date 4 times. Finally Oct 5th got all parts back.

Installed tires/rims and gas tank with new gas and thought its ready to go.

**I went to start bike and all electrical was working, battery has been on tender since July full charge, pulled choke out and nothing but crank, crank, crank. Tried different ways on and off. Only cranks.

**No FI light, It comes on when key turned on and goes off. After cranking FI light still off.

**I pulled spark plugs and all look new. Not flooded. I then did a spark test if I did it right and took one plug out left side and inserted in spark plug boot and had tip touching engine casing and NO Spark. Tried it toughing chrome top on engine and NO Spark. (The engine is painted black so not sure if that would work for test but wire is only so long. Also tried on chrome cover and no spark). After checking All four the same way and no spark.

**All sparked plugs gapped and all were dry. Which not knowing for sure thought was odd after several on and off attempts to start bike during a hour time span.

**Next I checked All fuses and there all fine.

**Next I pulled tank off again (gas in both bike lines and my three vent lines have no blockages) All tank and bike hoses and connectors were tapped off when I removed tank for painter and removed all tape doing reinstall.
I checked left and right coils and all the wiring snug. Both coils have two electrical tab connectors and the bike red wire with green stripe going to coil blue tab and the bikes black wire going to black tab on both. I would of changed them out exactly like the old ones were setup.

**After looking over bike, I do not see any other loose wires. Wanted to post in case someone has anything that might help. I don't know what else I can do or check and will have to get it to a mechanic soon.

Thanks In advance,
Anthony

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