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Posted by Tfrank59
- July 05, 2016, 07:22:31 AMeven if the numbers on the chart I posted were used for break-in, following those speeds for shifting would be lugging the motor badly, which I can't imagine is a good thing at any time.
Posted by kw-retrorider
- July 05, 2016, 04:41:57 AMTfrank: Actually the owner's manual (p.41 in mine) shows some numbers under the heading of "Break - In"....which is the first 1000 miles.
There is one set for the break-in period , which corresponds to the way I drive normally as noted....shifts at 20, 30 40 and 50 mph.
Then a second set after break-in which are more aggressive with shifts at 30, 45, 60, 75 and 90 mph.
The numbers you quote are in the owner's manual (page 50 in mine) under "Shifting Gears"...and they are as you stated them, but I can't make any sense out of them.
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 04, 2016, 16:38:14 PMRatman, I think you're going to have to give me a call and I can talk you through it because I'm stuck here in western Washington 
but for what it's worth the only required tools are maybe a pair of needle-nose pliers, roll of electrical tape and some zip ties
Posted by CDNRatMan
- July 04, 2016, 15:24:05 PMTFrank I'll buy the tach and when we met in WI in 2 weeks you can help install it. There will be lots of guys there with the correct tools.
Posted by pcarrell
- July 04, 2016, 15:14:07 PMGoing into 5th gear at only 27mph? Each gear, save 1st, is only good for 6 mph?
Something sounds fishy about that!
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 04, 2016, 13:46:13 PMYep, glad to help. BTW, the owner's manual provides this chart for when (at what MPH) to up-shift gears:
1st to 2nd: 9
2nd to 3rd: 15
3rd to 4th: 21
4th to 5th: 27
with the exception of 1st to 2nd it's way off, as anyone who knows anything about engine sounds can verify without a tachometer.
Posted by kw-retrorider
- July 04, 2016, 09:26:15 AMTfrank: Thanks for the numbers. So with the stock gearing and easy riding/shift up speeds every 10 mph starting at 20 mph for the shift from 1st to 2nd, seems the engine is at about 3500 rpm.
I took the opportunity to ask, because you had the tach. I looked around the sight again and found the links to the gear ratio commander and previous discussions about sprocket changes...so could have found these numbers another way. In my past reviews, everyone was talking about how great the sprocket changes were, without using a tach or showing some numbers. I finally found the numbers. So I get it.
That said, I ride one up and have put over 15k on in the last 4 years. Haven't had the urgent sense of looking for another gear on the top end. Also haven't grampsized...but good to know it doesn't kick in until 4000 rpm, which I am not routinely running at in any gear...except maybe 5th if I am going over 60 mph.
At 25k, just had the original chain (and sprockets) changed with a sunstar x-ring recommended by my local dealer (and stock sprockets). So for the moment, happy with the performance of a stock carb, baffled roadhouse, predictable choking/starting and an average of 50 mpg. If I get bored in the next 25K, maybe grampsizing and sprocket changes will be next. I know these things are subjective and personal.
All good - thanks again for the field numbers and the comments by Troll on the grampsizing.
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 03, 2016, 20:11:59 PMWell I like the idea of making one's own backing plate – that's pretty easy, probably easier than cutting up the plastic stock one, so maybe I'll try that. Thanks a lot
Posted by Troll
- July 03, 2016, 19:38:32 PMPersonal preferences...I think they are FUGLY, and do not go with the rest of the Drifter...As far as performance, goes, who knows... I made my own backing plate and I'm using a 7" K&N with the original cover. Today I rode 185 miles between 55 and 70 mph and got 47 mpg
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 03, 2016, 19:32:55 PMOK I remember browsing that before and just forgot about it. So basically the only thing I haven't done on my bike is the modification to the airbox. My bike was a California bike and I already did the desmog, and I've already changed my main jet, so to complete the process I would just have to gut my airbox, then maybe some tweaking of the needle setting and mixture screw to get it just right. I do have aftermarket exhaust also. I was actually browsing online and looking at some of those air cleaners that look forward and come to a point– I wonder if one of those would produce the same affect as grampsizing
Posted by Troll
- July 03, 2016, 18:34:10 PMhttp://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/mods/grampsize.pdf
Several articles about it on the forum, including that it WORKS! Raise the needle one notch and see what happens...Putting a K&N in is a good idea, but you won't reap the true benefit of that until you do something to open up the air intake...ie. Grampsizing. That engine should wind all the way to the red line in at least the first 4 gears....
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 03, 2016, 18:05:35 PMWhat exactly is "grampsizing"? – I already have a Dynojet kit in it, but I'm running the stock air cleaner. maybe you're saying I need a different e-clip setting on my jet? remember it went flat when I was running it with no air cleaner (your suggestion), but it did improve performance in the mid range as I said. that is why I'm contemplating spending 55 bucks for a k&n air filter. please advise
Posted by Troll
- July 03, 2016, 17:05:25 PMThe reason it went flat above 4000 is that the high end mixture is too lean. Put a K&N jet kit in and "grampsize" it, you will be AMAZED!
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 02, 2016, 22:11:09 PMokay I tried riding without air cleaner on there and it made a big big difference in the mid-range from about 3500 RPMs to maybe 4200, above that it seems like it went flat. even so it's worth it to buy an aftermarket air cleaner like a K&N. thanks for the tip
Posted by Tfrank59
- July 02, 2016, 21:25:18 PMokay I'll try that, but it probably means I need to get a K&N Filter right? The other question I have is will more air improve torque and horsepower at the lower RPMs also?