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Posted by Robbwilson
- May 19, 2016, 23:21:53 PMWell, I pulled the boots off the plugs, but didn't get further than that today. Ive got a trip coming up and have to prepare for that. When I pulled the spark plug boots, the one under the speedo came out fine, but the one under the seat fell apart as I gently pulled it out: the conductor cable separated from the boot! I expect that kind of spark-plug cable construction on a lawn mower, but not on a motorized vehicle. Perhaps that was why one cylinder wasn't firing? Does anyone know of a quality replacement cable where the cable is properly joined to the boot? Or will I be stuck just ramming the cable back into the boot and hoping for the best? I can't think of a way to verify that current is actually getting to the plug, given how far down the boot goes into the cylinder---and the problem may not even be spark related.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 19, 2016, 15:27:24 PMnow when you are replacing the tank follow the same instructions in reverse, and take a stool with you, becuase if your knees are old like mine they will not be happy being knelt upon. Replacing the speedo cable is going to be a bit of a pain but taking your time and relax and it will match up and you can get a strat then it will go on, then hook up the connectors for the electrical plugs and you are set.
Posted by Robbwilson
- May 19, 2016, 13:09:40 PMThanks for the input, everyone! The tip on removing the instrument cluster was a great help. I just reached under and unscrewed the speedo cable and off it came. Now I've got to check for spark.
Posted by Tfrank59
- May 19, 2016, 09:50:47 AMWelcome aboard. You definitely need to check for spark, but it may be that (once you establish there is good spark in both cylinders) you have a fuel issue. I know to change the setting on my petcock isn't easy; there's like a detent keeping it from moving from one to another position – but it does move. If it doesn't move for you that would be a prime suspect for your problem – your petcock could be malfunctioning. Let us know what you learn.
Posted by Troll
- May 18, 2016, 20:05:02 PMFirst thing to do is check for spark.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 17, 2016, 23:45:48 PM Tank removal is really not that hard. Seat comes off,
turn fuel to res, disconnect the fuel tap vacuum line,
remove the bottom bolt on the speedo housing, lift it up and reach underneath undo the electrical connectors
unscrew the speedo cable here also,
remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on now one is in the front of the tank under the speedo housing, other is under the seat;
pretty simple really.
Then use the tools in the tool kit to remove the spark plugs and check them.
When you replace the tank and all you need to put the petcock into the "PRI" position to get the fuel started once the bike is started then switch it to on. Also a good idea to add a couple of glugs of SeaFoam to the tank and get it mixed in well to the fuel on your first ride of the year to clean out the carb.
Posted by Robbwilson
- May 17, 2016, 22:15:01 PMI'm hoping you guys can give me some guidance on the best steps to follow to trouble shoot my 2000 Drifter 800. My story is that in November 2015, one of the cylinder's stopped firing on a short ride from home. I nursed the bike the remaining mile to its garage and put in fresh fuel (thinking maybe I was running out of fuel). It would start and run, but only on one cylinder. I left it in the garage for the winter, after adding fuel stabilizer to the full tank, and figured I'd get to it in the spring.
Well, spring is finally here and I'm ready to ride! I went to see if it would run last week and it wouldn't fire on even one cylinder. I thought maybe the battery wasn't supplying enough voltage (even though I keep the battery on a tender during the winter) so I hooked up a freshly charged car battery to crank it over, but it still wouldn't fire despite repeated cranking. It still has a full tank of treated hi test gasoline from its winter storage.
So, what would be the best way to diagnose the issue? I've never taken the bike apart before. I've obtained a VN 800 service manual, but since it is not a Drifter manual, I'm in the dark on some things. I figured the place to start was to verify spark on both plugs, and change the plugs while I was at it, and then check the coils if I had no spark. So I pulled the seat and started to pull the tank. Problem: Is there any trick to pulling the tank? I can't lift the instrument panel off the tank after having removed the bolt near the seat and the three Allen bolts for the instrument lights sub panel. I've disconnected both wiring harnesses for the instrument panel, and I believe that in order to remove the tank that I'll need to remove the speedo cable from the front wheel and then feed the speedo cable up from under the tank as I lift the instrument panel away from the tank. Is that the correct procedure to gain access to the front bolt that is hidden under the speedometer and secures the tank to the frame there? Any trick to removing the speedo cable from the front wheel -- or just a pair of pliers to loosen the knurled nut and pull it out (but don't move the tire afterwards or feeding the helical gear back in won't be easy)?
Once I have the tank removed, I was going to check for spark on both cylinders, thinking that perhaps one of the spark plugs or one of the coils has failed. Could it possibly be a gummed up carburetor? But then why would one cylinder have fired and not the other? My petcock has never allowed rotation to any of the settings other than "ON." I thought I'd fix the petcock too while I was taking things apart, since I've already disconnected it from the tank. Can anyone recommend a good online source for parts -- or is the Kawasaki dealer the only place to secure parts for these bikes?
Anyway, I've got a million questions but am smart enough to know not to ask them all at the same time. If anyone has a "Try this, and if that doesn't work then try this next ...." approach, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it.