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Posted by Darth Wraith
- March 31, 2016, 23:36:58 PMI experienced the same problem which is more serious when I change completely the airbox with a custom one ( teardrop shape, with foam filter). With the grampsized OEM airbox this coughing/hesitation occurs later on the RPM scale, but sometimes is happening. I guess grampsizing mod is enriching the mixture to the limit and if you don't have drag pipes you still don't have enough free flow in your engine. I'll try this spring to downsize a little the size of my jets and see what is happening ( I love the debaffled OEM exhaust from the estethical point of view, I don't want to change it for now).
Posted by CDNRatMan
- March 31, 2016, 12:11:19 PM 
Have you taken a test ride and forgot to tell us?
Posted by Tfrank59
- March 31, 2016, 09:18:06 AMOldschool, any updates on this yet? You got the plug wires fixed, but my understanding is that wasn't necessarily the cause of the bike cutting out and fifth gear was it?
Posted by greenbarn
- March 23, 2016, 21:45:21 PM.... back on topic.... Oldschool, glad it went back together well. Maybe that was coming loose and causing your problem all along. Is is better at highway speeds???
Posted by pcarrell
- March 21, 2016, 23:53:05 PMQuote from: CDNRatMan on March 21, 2016, 17:58:01 PMWhat? Who? Me? Nawwwwww.............I have seen threads sort of wonder off topic, right PC when you start about the weather up north here.....like this will now......
Posted by CDNRatMan
- March 21, 2016, 20:52:42 PM Troll go back under your bridge.......lol
Posted by Troll
- March 21, 2016, 18:23:28 PMQuote from: CDNRatMan on March 21, 2016, 17:58:01 PM
HEY! I RESEMBLE THAT REMARK!!!
Posted by CDNRatMan
- March 21, 2016, 17:58:01 PM This forum is just one huge dysfunctional family, we have some really good people who know their stuff. I have yet to see anyone not try to help someone else, lol I have seen threads sort of wonder off topic, right PC when you start about the weather up north here.....like this will now......lol...but there is so much to learn here.
Posted by oldschool
- March 21, 2016, 15:19:32 PMI took a small screwdriver and cleaned out the inside of the plug cap. I see a stud in the center if the cap. I sprayed the wire with silicone spray and clockwise threaded it back into the cap. I reinstalled on the bike, hit the starter and she fired right up, yes , both cylinders. I haven't taken her out yet for a run. Looks like catastrophe has been avoided. Thanks for the assistance. I love this forum.
Posted by Troll
- March 18, 2016, 12:32:30 PMAs you can see from the picture, the ends are replaceable. If the wire is the only problem, then go get some from an auto parts store
Posted by oldschool
- March 18, 2016, 09:52:28 AMI just called Babbits were I placed the order for the wires. Lady told me they were out of stock and had to order direct from Kawasaki. That was the excuse they gave me anyway. I see inside of the plug boot, looks like a slot cut across the brass end cap. So, I am thinking maybe I can unscrew the end cap and repair the darn thing. I couldn't get it to brake loose. Next thought was maybe I can reinsert the wire back into the boot. I read were some boots have a screw tip inside that the wire threads onto. Looking at the end of the wire that came out, it was smooth. I didn't see any sign of an indention in the end of the wire. Nor do I see any sign that anything would have been crimped on the wire and pulled off. Is there a chance anyone has ever repaired/reinserted the wire back into the boot successfully?
Posted by CDNRatMan
- March 17, 2016, 17:44:36 PM02 now it is 16 so 14 years they might need replacing.....and just might be the issue........
Will take that long to get parts in TX...wow and I thought we were slow with getting parts up here........
Posted by oldschool
- March 17, 2016, 15:04:37 PMOk, went home last night, tightened the bolts on the battery terminals. I pulled the plugs. They only have a couple hundred miles on them but looked alittle sooty but didnt smell like gas. I recheck the gaps and reinstalled them. And here's where everything started going south. After I tightened the plug in the back head, I tried to fish the rear plug wire around to pop back into the hole. The plug wire came out of the boot and now I have a 2 piece plug wire. I ordered another pair of plug wires probably won't see them until end of the month. So, not sure, but maybe this was the problem, a bad connection at rear plug. After I put on the new wires, I will road test and report back. I appreciate the responses to my post. God Bless!!
Posted by greenbarn
- March 17, 2016, 08:04:28 AMmore good things to check from Goose. Except, the Vulcans only have one carb, so don't spend too much time looking for the second carb 
The petcock could be a valid issue perhaps, - but I think your symptoms don't fit - it would act like it were running out of fuel.
Posted by Gooseberrie
- March 16, 2016, 22:03:29 PMCheck the terminals but don't forget the minus is going to the bikes engine or frame and this connection counts just as much as the ground cable on the terminal. There can be rust underneath.
In fifth gear the bike should be past the point of vibration and it starts right up so I do not support this hypothesis.
A vacuum petcock can either be unable pulling a small rubber or the rubber leaks fuel trough the vacuum line to feed one cylinder, past or only just to one carburetor. Check the hose for being rightly connected and not being kinked. Next do check for fuel in this line. Check the fuel filter and the gas that comes out from the entrance side. All of a sudden the tank can produce residue and skin that looks like clear coat, from long storage periods.
The vacuum petcock can be combined with a manual petcock that has a a Pri (prime) position. This provides the bypass. Manually automatic petcocks can be bypassed for diagnosing by a (I used 8 millimeter outside diameter on a Honda) T. This can be brass or fuel resistant nylon from the car parts shop. When bypassing manually is necessary then plug the vacuum hose. Duh.
Because it is so easy you should check the alternator for charging capabilities. Determine the Battery its Voltage to be 12,8 Volt or close. Any higher is not long maintained. Then start the engine and read the Voltage on any idle throttle given. This number must be between 13 and 15 Volts. Right in between is ideal. It should not go down far or higher up with high revs.
The coils can short the ignition and who knows cause unburned fuel. They often start doing so when the coils are hot. A defective coil can be recognized by burn spots on the outside and testing for continuity. Do not forget to check the spark plug cables on both sides, the coil side and the cap side. My 1500 had one loose cable, they are simply turned and pushed with their core onto a threaded object, like a screw.
Testing the coil explained on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=testing+ignition+coil+with+multimeter+
Again I do not think this to be caused by the carburetor because wrong mixture would probably seize the engine longer and/or cause problems when the engine is cold. What you could do is check the carb boots seams by spraying small amounts (!) of liquid lighter-gas (airosol held upside down) or other burnable gaseous liquid (deodorant for example) right there. Let the engine run on slightly higher refs with the adjustment knob. When boots leak the idle goes up noticeably. Please be careful not to let the spark plugs ignite those small amounts of spray and better not have the engine running inside the garage ever.