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Diddly squatt,

The "Best" way to wire your new spot lights is to their own circuit. That way if anything goes wrong, like you blow a fuse, you always have some light in front. This only requires a small switch, a 12 volt relay and a bit of wire.

The circuit:
Battery + to the 30 post of a 12v relay (available at any automotive place) the other side of the relay (87) to both of your lights. Route the wire right along with the original harness (left side of bike under edge of tank) using zip ties. Suggest 14 or 16 Gauge. Overkill maybe but what the heck. You'll want to put a 10 amp fuse in this line if you are running two 35 watt bulbs. If you ride in the rain a lot you can find waterproof fuse holders at a local boating store.
You still have two posts on the relay. One (85) goes to ground. If you're putting the relay under your seat just use one of the ground connections available there. from the remaining post (86) run a wire, you can use 20 gauge or maybe smaller for this, right along with your new spotlight wire along the original harness. A fuse in this line is also recommended. The tidy, but not absolutely necessary next routing is through the original equipment tubing, into the headlight bucket and then back to the area of your left hand grip, again through the O.E. tubing (use a piece of wire to fish your electrical wire through). Look carefully and you'll see what I mean. Here (or anyplace you choose) you connect the wire to one side of a small spst switch. (I skipped this and just wired it so the spots come on with the headlight.) Wire from the "other" side of the switch goes back to the headlight bucket where you have several options. My suggestion, connect it to the one wire (blue with yellow strip) that's energized after hitting the "start" button (supplying power to the headlight). This way you have driving lights whether you're on high or low beam. Other options sometimes dictated by state laws are are connections to the high beam or low beam wires. You can check all these with a cheap test light or multimeter.

Result: Turn the new switch on and your new spotlights will come on at the same time as your headlight (after you've hit the starter). You have complete control of when the lights are on or off. As for switch location, there's ample space in the rear portion of the switch box on your left grip for another.

But now we're on a bit of a rabbit trail.......

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Posted by Diddly squatt

- January 12, 2016, 06:55:32 AM

Thanks for the info RatMan. Did you/they install a switch? I understand there might be an accessary tap inside the headlight housing. Some threads have mentioned using a relay. Is this necessary for a fused circuit? Appreciate your help. Mike

Posted by CDNRatMan

- January 12, 2016, 00:27:40 AM

Terry:
I bought a light off e bay and it was nice, really simple to put on, and if you have a bench grinder then you can remove a little bit of material to make it fit tighter to the curve of the fender, I never did put it on however, just was not the look I was after, but if you buy a decent one like PC stated they come with a foam or rubber gasket and it should cover the gaps if any.

Diddly:
What was done for me at the shop was to go from the + off the battery with an inline fuse, into the headlight bucket, and then in there they split the + to each spot light and then the ground was the housing itself. So far touch wood no issues. We have only a few deer around here but we do have them big black ugly animals called moose who can really mess up your night ride home. So I took my bike to a place were I had the 25 ft needed and lined up my headlight and you can see from the picture I have added how I adjusted the spots and the hi beam. Seems to work really well

Posted by Diddly squatt

- January 11, 2016, 23:44:20 PM

Excellent instructions. Would you happen to have any info on wiring running/fog lights on the 800 Drifter? We have a lot of deer in my area and I would like to have a wider beam beyond the side of the road.

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