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Posted by aralph
 - September 14, 2015, 21:22:59 PM

Just throwing this out there, but have you ever checked the frame ground
to make sure it is tight and clean.

aralph

Posted by stein69
 - September 13, 2015, 19:52:13 PM

Thanks guys. I have the battery on order and I will let you know the voltage test with a good battery when it gets in!

Posted by Troll
 - September 12, 2015, 07:55:18 AM

Yuasa YUAM6220C YTX20CH-BS Battery will this fit under the seat???
That's what I have. Same size as the 16 but more power.

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 22:38:03 PM

"Did you measure the a/c output with the engine running? What is the D/C voltage at the battery with the engine running? Should be 14.5 or so at idle. Mine goes to 15.2 @2000 rpm. see the instructions on page 15-29 about D/C and A/C output." -Troll. I did this with a dead battery. I jumped the bike to get it running and then after I took the bike for a spin around the block I pulled the seat off while it was running and tested it! Not good! I came up with 11.5-12 volts. Then I tried to restart it after I shut it down and nothing, just clicking. So I'm looking at new batteries on Amazon and should have one by Tuesday! If a battery is all that I need... well I'm glad I bought a Kawasaki! --Stein

Yuasa YUAM6220C YTX20CH-BS Battery will this fit under the seat???

Posted by greenbarn
 - September 11, 2015, 18:49:00 PM
Quote from: stein69 on September 11, 2015, 11:10:40 AM

All of these read out good. So my stator and rectifier are good?? I still don't understand why my voltage while running is so low. The battery was shot when I did the voltage test. Would that suck up all my alternator voltage so I would be unable to read correct voltage?

The other answer to your question is - "yes" the dead battery (depending) can give you bad readings.   Can't trust voltage readings when the battery is dead/bad.   I've seen it a lot on cars- and assume the same is the same on bikes.  The dead battery can be possibly taking all the current and your readings could be incorrect.   Might want to install a good battery (you need one anyway, right) and retest....
Posted by Troll
 - September 11, 2015, 13:59:33 PM

Did you measure the a/c output with the engine running? What is the D/C voltage at the battery with the engine running? Should be 14.5 or so at idle. Mine goes to 15.2 @2000 rpm. see the instructions on page 15-29 about D/C and A/C output.

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 11:10:40 AM

All of these read out good. So my stator and rectifier are good?? I still don't understand why my voltage while running is so low. The battery was shot when I did the voltage test. Would that suck up all my alternator voltage so I would be unable to read correct voltage?

Posted by stein69
 - September 11, 2015, 10:35:20 AM

So this is the stator test and resistance is high but good.

Posted by stein69
 - September 10, 2015, 17:53:09 PM

I'm working on getting a new battery. Tomorrow morning I'll be able to get into the stator and rectifier wiring to read them out.

Posted by 49Reo
 - September 10, 2015, 13:42:18 PM

Please keep us posted on your findings. Good intel is good to have.

Posted by Troll
 - September 10, 2015, 08:15:07 AM

It's a simple permanent magnet "delta" wound stator system. If the stator coil resistance checks good, there is little left but the rotor and the rectifier. Changing the parts is pretty easy. You'll need a gasket for the system cover, and what ever you decide to replace. This is not a whole lot different from the alt. system on a car.

Posted by stein69
 - September 10, 2015, 00:59:12 AM

So I have been using a battery tender for the last 3-4 years to save my battery. It was my band-aid to the charging issue I have had for over ten years. I was buying batteries every year and that was getting old. If I remember correctly the stator was over 500 back then. I could get 3-5 starts out of my battery while out riding and then I would start to have issues. So I would ride to work and back then get her on life support before the next day and I'd have another 3-5 starts. It worked for quite a while. Until the tender died and now she needs surgery or at least some attention. Troll, I have seen you use the charging system check you wrote to help a few people that never got back to you with their findings. (I've seen two). I did 1/2 the test you mentioned on my own because if the engine runs faster you should create more juice. My motor/alternator would only put out .5 volt more with a reving engine which I had to jump off the mini van to even get started than with the motor off. So my Battery is dead and I still need to check the rectifier. But my thought and my concern is.... How much time and money would it take to change out an alternator. I'm an aircraft mechanic so while I can fix and trouble shoot hydraulic landing gear and flight controls, I don't have much experience with the inside of a motorcycle motor.

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