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Topic summary

Posted by Troll
 - August 18, 2015, 08:14:13 AM

Solder and seal with heat shrink. You can use a 25 watt iron and electronic solder. It has a low melting point, and does the job without overheating the insulation nearby.

Posted by 49Reo
 - August 17, 2015, 23:50:10 PM

I use a product called "Liquid electrical tape" it is a black gooey mixture that I put on soldered connection, then slide shrink tube over and heat it up; it oozes out as tube shrinks, making a water proof connection. Over the years I have done a lot of vehicle wiring and had repair a lot of other peoples wiring, the only problems I have ever had on connections are those done with crimp connections with the exception of one: my son bought a used Jeep TJ, it had an issue with the main wire from the alternator; I undid the connection to find that someone (PO) had twisted the wires together and used seal-all and tape; never had a soldered joint that was sealed corrode. But, each to their own... I always pack some stakons and crimping pliers for road side fixes, but always redo them when I get home.

Posted by Nanook
 - August 17, 2015, 20:31:58 PM
Quote from: 49Reo on August 17, 2015, 19:37:05 PM

Did you use crimp connectors or solder and shrink tube? Crimps are okay for a roadside fix, but tend to corrode over time which causes nothing but trouble.

This is another big debate. Many proffesionnal claim that crimping is the best way to do it and that solder is the least reliable. But to accomplish this reliability you need high end crimping tool, and good connector. Before I got a good crimping tool i relied mainly on solder but got a few problem with it. Now I mainly crimped and sometime use just a tiny bit of solder. Shrink tube again is a must, good thick one.
Rob

Posted by 49Reo
 - August 17, 2015, 19:37:05 PM

Did you use crimp connectors or solder and shrink tube? Crimps are okay for a roadside fix, but tend to corrode over time which causes nothing but trouble.

Posted by Troll
 - August 17, 2015, 19:36:42 PM

The service manual rates the alt. at 23.5 A. Not  a whole lot, but all you really have to run is the headlight, taillight, and the ign system. A 1500 has the electronics and fuel pump to run, so that wouldn't be nearly enough. They don't break down the electrical load by user, so the best thing you can do is keep your use to a minimum.

Posted by Nanook
 - August 17, 2015, 19:16:17 PM

Well, harness has been removed, repaired, cable replaced and reinstalled on the bike. Re-did all the tail light wiring and the rear turn signal so they are used only as turn signal back again (i did une front turn signals at the back to be more visible, but people following told me the the turn signals was a lot less visible this way), ordered led for the trailer, and 24watts beam for my driving/ turn signals, redid some wiring up front. Now everythins is up and running.....keeping my finger cross. Anybody know how much wattage or amp we can use on the 800 ? thanks all for the help!

Posted by Troll
 - August 16, 2015, 16:04:46 PM

connect just the factory stuff first, then move on to the add ons

Posted by Nanook
 - August 16, 2015, 11:42:18 AM

That's what i'll do, but I would have liked to get an idea of the problem, so it won't happen as soon as I restart the bike. Thanks for your help mates!

Posted by Troll
 - August 16, 2015, 07:47:34 AM

I wish I could see the harness, but I can't all I would do now is repair it and put it back. No need to replace a whole harness for a couple of damaged wires.

Posted by Nanook
 - August 16, 2015, 07:29:25 AM
Quote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 19:18:19 PM

The main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness

But the melt down happened on the front accessory wire, so between the fuse box and the accesory, not the fuse box and the battery, so the 10a fuse shoud have taken the blow, not the wire. What could have happen so the fuse did'nt blow, but made the wire melt?
Posted by CDNRatMan
 - August 15, 2015, 19:50:47 PM

  I have some questions but will hold off till we can solve Robert's issues.

Posted by Troll
 - August 15, 2015, 19:18:19 PM

The main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness

Posted by Nanook
 - August 15, 2015, 18:47:38 PM
Quote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 18:42:46 PM

every fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side

I understand, but normally if the supply side of the fuse has a short circuit, the extra load on the wire should burn the fuse before the wire melt, no?

Posted by Nanook
 - August 15, 2015, 18:45:01 PM

By the way the front accessory that blew up is on a fuse of it's own, so no need for an auxiliary box. It most go trough the main switch so trough the 30a fuse.

Posted by Troll
 - August 15, 2015, 18:42:46 PM

every fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side

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