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Posted by 49Reo
- August 17, 2015, 19:37:05 PMDid you use crimp connectors or solder and shrink tube? Crimps are okay for a roadside fix, but tend to corrode over time which causes nothing but trouble.
Posted by Troll
- August 17, 2015, 19:36:42 PMThe service manual rates the alt. at 23.5 A. Not a whole lot, but all you really have to run is the headlight, taillight, and the ign system. A 1500 has the electronics and fuel pump to run, so that wouldn't be nearly enough. They don't break down the electrical load by user, so the best thing you can do is keep your use to a minimum.
Posted by Nanook
- August 17, 2015, 19:16:17 PMWell, harness has been removed, repaired, cable replaced and reinstalled on the bike. Re-did all the tail light wiring and the rear turn signal so they are used only as turn signal back again (i did une front turn signals at the back to be more visible, but people following told me the the turn signals was a lot less visible this way), ordered led for the trailer, and 24watts beam for my driving/ turn signals, redid some wiring up front. Now everythins is up and running.....keeping my finger cross. Anybody know how much wattage or amp we can use on the 800 ? thanks all for the help!
Posted by Troll
- August 16, 2015, 16:04:46 PMconnect just the factory stuff first, then move on to the add ons
Posted by Nanook
- August 16, 2015, 11:42:18 AMThat's what i'll do, but I would have liked to get an idea of the problem, so it won't happen as soon as I restart the bike. Thanks for your help mates!
Posted by Troll
- August 16, 2015, 07:47:34 AMI wish I could see the harness, but I can't all I would do now is repair it and put it back. No need to replace a whole harness for a couple of damaged wires.
Posted by Nanook
- August 16, 2015, 07:29:25 AMQuote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 19:18:19 PMBut the melt down happened on the front accessory wire, so between the fuse box and the accesory, not the fuse box and the battery, so the 10a fuse shoud have taken the blow, not the wire. What could have happen so the fuse did'nt blow, but made the wire melt?The main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness
Posted by CDNRatMan
- August 15, 2015, 19:50:47 PMI have some questions but will hold off till we can solve Robert's issues.
Posted by Troll
- August 15, 2015, 19:18:19 PMThe main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness
Posted by Nanook
- August 15, 2015, 18:47:38 PMQuote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 18:42:46 PMevery fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side
I understand, but normally if the supply side of the fuse has a short circuit, the extra load on the wire should burn the fuse before the wire melt, no?
Posted by Nanook
- August 15, 2015, 18:45:01 PMBy the way the front accessory that blew up is on a fuse of it's own, so no need for an auxiliary box. It most go trough the main switch so trough the 30a fuse.
Posted by Troll
- August 15, 2015, 18:42:46 PMevery fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side
Posted by Nanook
- August 15, 2015, 18:36:15 PMI'm certainly not the first one to run a trailer with a drifter 800. The only additional load is the light bar, and I been running it for two years without any problem. I think that maybe the two problem are two separate thing that happen together but not necessarly related. Maybe the system was temporairly overload when the main fuse blew. But I dont see why it would only melt the front accesory wire? When the wire melted the fuse box was hanging on the side of the frame when I started the bike to test the main fuse, so it might have shorted there. But if the short happened there would'nt the wire be only melted between the fuse box and the short? The other thing that puzzles me is tha the 10a fuse did'nt blew, after the melt the fuse was still fine? Any explanation why? It should have blown and left the wire Ok? How come it did'nt?
Posted by CDNRatMan
- August 13, 2015, 18:13:28 PMRobert you might want to look at this item.
Posted by chief
- August 13, 2015, 11:59:48 AMYou added way more electrical load to the bike than it was designed to handle. Troll's recommendations are right on.