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Well, harness has been removed, repaired, cable replaced and reinstalled on the bike. Re-did all the tail light wiring and the rear turn signal so they are used only as turn signal back again (i did une front turn signals at the back to be more visible, but people following told me the the turn signals was a lot less visible this way), ordered led for the trailer, and 24watts beam for my driving/ turn signals, redid some wiring up front. Now everythins is up and running.....keeping my finger cross. Anybody know how much wattage or amp we can use on the 800 ? thanks all for the help!
connect just the factory stuff first, then move on to the add ons
That's what i'll do, but I would have liked to get an idea of the problem, so it won't happen as soon as I restart the bike. Thanks for your help mates!
I wish I could see the harness, but I can't all I would do now is repair it and put it back. No need to replace a whole harness for a couple of damaged wires.
Quote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 19:18:19 PMBut the melt down happened on the front accessory wire, so between the fuse box and the accesory, not the fuse box and the battery, so the 10a fuse shoud have taken the blow, not the wire. What could have happen so the fuse did'nt blow, but made the wire melt?The main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness
I have some questions but will hold off till we can solve Robert's issues.
The main fuse, yes. The problem is that the supply to the main fuse is not fuse protected. Cars use a thing called a fuseable link which is just a wire that is designed to melt and protect the rest of the main harness
Quote from: Troll on August 15, 2015, 18:42:46 PMevery fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side
I understand, but normally if the supply side of the fuse has a short circuit, the extra load on the wire should burn the fuse before the wire melt, no?
By the way the front accessory that blew up is on a fuse of it's own, so no need for an auxiliary box. It most go trough the main switch so trough the 30a fuse.
every fuse has 2 sides. load and supply. The fuse protects the load side, the main fuse protects the supply side
I'm certainly not the first one to run a trailer with a drifter 800. The only additional load is the light bar, and I been running it for two years without any problem. I think that maybe the two problem are two separate thing that happen together but not necessarly related. Maybe the system was temporairly overload when the main fuse blew. But I dont see why it would only melt the front accesory wire? When the wire melted the fuse box was hanging on the side of the frame when I started the bike to test the main fuse, so it might have shorted there. But if the short happened there would'nt the wire be only melted between the fuse box and the short? The other thing that puzzles me is tha the 10a fuse did'nt blew, after the melt the fuse was still fine? Any explanation why? It should have blown and left the wire Ok? How come it did'nt?
Robert you might want to look at this item.
You added way more electrical load to the bike than it was designed to handle. Troll's recommendations are right on.
You have the harness out, right now. Unwrap it and trace any wires/separate any that melted together. Insulate them and/or replace them with new wire, if the insulation is breached. Sounds like something shorted to ground on the supply side to your accessories. Don't over load the individual stock wiring circuits. You would be much better off installing an aux. fuse box to handle extra loads. Once you have repaired the harness, and it's reinstalled, add things one at a time, making sure there are no shorts to ground
not sure if this helps but found this and now I am wondering if I am reading it correctly.
Wait for Troll to explain all this electrical stuff and educate us ....
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