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Posted by 49Reo
- August 04, 2012, 21:38:06 PMThanks, Chief; much appreciated.
Regards and such,
49Reo
Posted by chief
- August 04, 2012, 16:23:28 PMPM charts for 1500 and 800 are located here...
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/reviewpost/showcat.php/cat/49Just in case you need them.
Posted by 49Reo
- August 03, 2012, 12:08:13 PMGreat, thanks, Troll; since I bought the bike used, with 5000 miles on it and know nothing of the PO's service work, it makes sense to do it as soon as I can. Thanks for the info.
Regards and such,
49 Reo
Posted by Troll
- August 03, 2012, 10:37:46 AMInitially, it's scheduled to be lubed at 7500 and then it looks like they want the sliding joint lubed every 24,000, and the final drive oil checked every other oil change, and replaced every 24,000. I got in the habit about 100 years ago, of changing all the oils at once. I change engine oil at 3,000, so another 200 ml of 90w every oil change is no big deal. The first service shows the final drive oil being changed at 600 miles, but I'm sure nobody has that issue, any more....As far as scheduled maintenance, there is none, other than inspections of bolt torque, etc. According to the dealer, and I wouldn't have ignored it, anyway, the spline going into the rear wheel cush drive should be greased every time the rear wheel is removed..
Posted by 49Reo
- August 02, 2012, 21:30:40 PMHi, Troll; I have a question for you: How often does the sliding joint need to be re-packed? (Mileage-wise) Also, what other routine maintenance is required on the drive shaft and final?
Thanks in advance,
49Reo
Posted by yellowgizmo99
- August 02, 2012, 15:02:45 PMOK, thanks for the help, I will see if they have the o-ring, got other stuff on order as is.
Posted by Troll
- August 02, 2012, 14:33:35 PMThe u joint will only move a few millimeters, and that's not going to be enough to fiddle the boot and spring. Repacking the sliding joint is a routine maintenance thing. If the o ring fails, then gear oil will leak out of the area where the boot is, and the sliding coupler can become worn and fail if not greased. When the shaft is installed in the swing arm, the end to end movement of the shaft is almost non existent, since the coupler is spring loaded to minimize the end play...part 92081. The dealer should have these o rings in stick, since they recommend replacing them EVERY time the shaft is pulled out...
Posted by yellowgizmo99
- August 02, 2012, 12:06:09 PMafter you release the pin(I am guessing it is 610 in diagram ) can you not move the u-joint enough to get the boot back in? if not then I need to order #92055C for the o-ring is what you are saying, correct. Thanks.
Posted by Troll
- August 02, 2012, 11:35:54 AMYou have 2 choices, both of which involve removing the swing arm. I put a u-joint in last year, and didn't take the final drive off the swing arm, but disassembled as a unit. Came apart ok, but the reinstallation was a BEAR! You have to remove the swing arm to replace the boot, no options there. You should remove the final drive, replace the O ring on the drive shaft coupler, and pack the coupler with wheel bearing grease while you are in there. This is a pretty big job, and if you're not mechanically inclined, this might be a job for a "professional". The coupler and o ring are highlited
Posted by yellowgizmo99
- August 02, 2012, 10:13:24 AMI am changing the boot because it is cracked. It looks like I have to remove the swing arm bolt that goes thru the frame, then will the shaft, after pushing in the retaining pin pull out enought to get the boot off and new one on with out taking the swing arm bolt completly out? Do I have to take the 4 nuts that hold on the rear hub to remove the shaft so that the rear hub and shaft pulls out enought, or is there an easier way?