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Posted by greenbarn
- June 02, 2015, 22:03:27 PMIn Troll's diagram - keep in mind this is a wiring diagram, not a direct layout - your relay might physically be laid out different, but the numbers are the same. Understanding how this works will help you understand how to wire it. The relay is nothing more than an electrically activated on/off switch. It uses a low power circuit to close contacts inside that will carry the high-power current to your load (lights in this case). More specifically - when you put current across poles 85-86 then the relay closes the contacts - connecting poles 87-30 - which carries current to your load. Reason: you can run a low-power current for quite a distance on small wires, but then run your high-power current a shorter distance with heavier wires, and all of the current for the load doesn't have to go through the switch.
OK, back to your questions. The "Switch" in the diagram is any switch you want to use to physically turn the lights on and off. Most light bars have a switch on them. This switch connects power to your terminal 86, which in turn makes the relay close, which in turn sends current to your lights. When I wired mine, I pulled this power for the switch off the low-beam headlight switch - yes I think it was red/blue or blue/red- but don't remember for sure. My spots were previously wired directly off of this wire - so I knew which wire without looking up a diagram.
Then 85 goes to a ground - it does not need to go all the way to your battery - ground it to the frame somewhere close for convenience.
30 comes from the Battery (fused) or from a ignition-on circuit if you wish.
87 goes to your lights
The wires on 30 and 87 should be a heavier wire like 16 or 14 gauge, but the switch wires (85-86) can be lighter, 18 gauge.
One other note - on the diagram in question - the wire coming off the switch labeled "earth - brown" going to "ground" is only needed for a lighted switch- like a lighted rocker switch. If your switch does not have a light in it (which lights up to show you the switch is on) then you will not have this ground wire.
Hope this helps.
Posted by zig
- June 02, 2015, 21:46:27 PMHey guys, can I butt in with a request? I need this even simpler for a more simple minded guy.
I'm trying to follow Troll's diagram posted below. I've got the relay, wired the fused hot wire from the hot side of the battery post. Have the ground from the relay going to the negative post of the battery. (should I move that to the frame somewhere instead?) (of course I don't have the battery connected right now)
Now is where I'm getting nervous. The wire coming from the switch, can you tell me exactly where? Is it the key ignition? the Kill Switch by the throttle or the high/low beam switch? Or do I just need to find the power source wire for the low beam lights and tap into that? IgRs that the red/blue wire Bob is talking about? Greenbarn, is that the one you're talking about? Run a wire from it back to the relay, then the power source to the driving lights?
Sorry to be so simple-minded. I've just recently graduated from wrapping bare wires together and taping them to wrapping bare wires and melting a little solder onto them before taping. This whole "relay" thing is virgin territory for me. 
Thanks in advance for any help!
Posted by jmbo
- May 27, 2015, 19:51:13 PMPosted by pcarrell
- May 26, 2015, 16:57:22 PMQuote from: bikerbob5864 on May 26, 2015, 16:36:22 PMGoogle is your friend! So is Amazon!I'm having a lot of trouble finding 35W bulbs around here. All the parts stores seem to stock only 55W and above!
Posted by bikerbob5864
- May 26, 2015, 16:36:22 PMOkay, I was out doing some testing with a light last night finding what is what and what is not. I think the low beam trigger source is the way to go.........I like to follow the rules........I mean....what Marine doesn't like continuity in his life. I'm having a lot of trouble finding 35W bulbs around here. All the parts stores seem to stock only 55W and above!
Posted by Troll
- May 25, 2015, 20:57:15 PMQuote from: bikerbob5864 on May 25, 2015, 20:45:35 PMHere's a question........since the lights are grounded at the light bar....I only have to ground the relay somewhere.....correct?
There are no ground leads from the lights, the bulbs plug into a connector, come together and go directly to the 2 prong switch. The other single lead was the one that went to the running lights and was therefore the power lead. Wiring has never been my best area. But, if you don't ask.......you don't learn.........and you never get any better...........That's what's so good about this site, so many willing to help.Thanks
Bob
Pin 85 is relay ground. You can run it to any convenient location. You could connect it to the ground wire off the headlight bulb, or to any of the grounds inside the housing that connect the front running lights.
Posted by bikerbob5864
- May 25, 2015, 20:45:35 PMHere's a question........since the lights are grounded at the light bar....I only have to ground the relay somewhere.....correct?
There are no ground leads from the lights, the bulbs plug into a connector, come together and go directly to the 2 prong switch. The other single lead was the one that went to the running lights and was therefore the power lead. Wiring has never been my best area. But, if you don't ask.......you don't learn.........and you never get any better...........That's what's so good about this site, so many willing to help.
Thanks
Bob
Posted by bikerbob5864
- May 25, 2015, 10:10:27 AMAAAhhhhh, I see...............need at least 14Ga wire to run from the Battery..........(Knock on Head) I'm supposed to know things like that.........but I'm getting old and forgetful......
Thanks again GuysSemper Fi Troll
Bob
Posted by Troll
- May 25, 2015, 07:56:13 AMThe wires in the accessory plugs are only 18 ga. To run full power to the passing lights, you need something a bit heavier. Since they are not a switched circuit, if the relay should stay on, the lights will run the battery flat pretty quickly. I dunno, but I'm not really a fan of always hot circuits that could be left on inadvertently. I set up all my accessories on switched circuits.
Posted by bikerbob5864
- May 25, 2015, 00:48:24 AMThis is what had me a little confused too................I mean.............I'm by no means a wiring whiz, but I was under the impression that any accessories like DL's should have their own separate circuit, direct to a 12V source, fused...........so as to not allow a possible light meltdown thru the headlight bucket in the future , but as far as using the Aux plugs.........I'm unsure as to why or why not........BTW, what is the Red/Blu wire.........(running lights, like I thought) and which is the low beam side? I've got a manual somewhere around here, but not right at hand...........hate to sound so helpless........or hapless.......whichever you choose.......... 
Posted by greenbarn
- May 24, 2015, 21:01:20 PMQuote from: Troll on May 24, 2015, 18:31:05 PMI would NOT use them for this application. Run a fused power circuit to your relay, and trigger the relay off the low beam headlamp circuit. That way, the lights will only come on when the switch is on and the headlight is in low beam (Federal/State law about aux. lighting).
Troll, Why wouldn't you use the aux. plug for the lights?? two 35 watt bulbs will only draw, something like 6 amps, right?? Just curious as to why you would run a separate fused circuit??? I'm in the process of adding this same relay on the 800 as well, seeing as it came to me wired just like bikerbob's. My plans were to use the blue/red wire (the one that currently powers the aux. lights) for the TRIGGER on the aux. lights (through an additional fuse, and dedicated switch). Then the Aux. (double bullet connector) for the POWER on the lights (through the relay of course) .... plans can change, though, it's still early.
Posted by Troll
- May 24, 2015, 18:31:05 PMOne of them is ground, one is power. They are constant, directly connected to the battery. They are protected by a 10 a fuse. The other set is bundled under the fuel tank on a 1500, at the left side of the steering head. If you have the tank off, you look straight down the they are at about 10 o'clock. I would NOT use them for this application. Run a fused power circuit to your relay, and trigger the relay off the low beam headlamp circuit. That way, the lights will only come on when the switch is on and the headlight is in low beam (Federal/State law about aux. lighting).
Posted by bikerbob5864
- May 24, 2015, 18:08:38 PMBTW, found no Aux Bullet connectors in the bucket...........must be under the dash plate.........plus the ones under the seat.
BobPosted by bikerbob5864
- May 24, 2015, 18:04:25 PMThanks for the input guys..............the Red/Blue wire that they used for power was cut.......so I've just got a wire screw on it for now.........I intended to just solder it back together or at least a butt connetcter with shrink wrap, and then just run my power to the relay from one of the front Aux power leads. Also, one of my power leads under the seat is dead.............now I'm unfamiliar with how Drifters work.......so should both leads have power and be able to handle a total of four bullet connectors? Just my wht/blu stripe wire is live right now
I imagine the wire they spliced was to the running lights as they come with the ignition.(red/Blu stripe)
Thanks again
Bob
Semper Fi
Posted by greenbarn
- May 24, 2015, 12:17:58 PMBikerbob, the diagram shows a 3-wire switch, like for a lighted switch. If yours just has 2 wires disregard the ground wire coming off the switch. There is a power wire and ground wire in the headlight bucket (double bayonet connectors) that you can use for the power and ground to the relay if you wish. For the "supply" wire to the switch, you could use the current wire you described that is powering the lights. That way it is only powering the relay - very low power draw. The power that burns the lights, then, will be coming through the relay on the new circuit.
Just like Troll said- easy...