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AAAhhhhh, I see...............need at least 14Ga wire to run from the Battery..........(Knock on Head) I'm supposed to know things like that.........but I'm getting old and forgetful......
Thanks again GuysSemper Fi Troll
Bob
The wires in the accessory plugs are only 18 ga. To run full power to the passing lights, you need something a bit heavier. Since they are not a switched circuit, if the relay should stay on, the lights will run the battery flat pretty quickly. I dunno, but I'm not really a fan of always hot circuits that could be left on inadvertently. I set up all my accessories on switched circuits.
This is what had me a little confused too................I mean.............I'm by no means a wiring whiz, but I was under the impression that any accessories like DL's should have their own separate circuit, direct to a 12V source, fused...........so as to not allow a possible light meltdown thru the headlight bucket in the future , but as far as using the Aux plugs.........I'm unsure as to why or why not........BTW, what is the Red/Blu wire.........(running lights, like I thought) and which is the low beam side? I've got a manual somewhere around here, but not right at hand...........hate to sound so helpless........or hapless.......whichever you choose..........

Quote from: Troll on May 24, 2015, 18:31:05 PMI would NOT use them for this application. Run a fused power circuit to your relay, and trigger the relay off the low beam headlamp circuit. That way, the lights will only come on when the switch is on and the headlight is in low beam (Federal/State law about aux. lighting).
Troll, Why wouldn't you use the aux. plug for the lights?? two 35 watt bulbs will only draw, something like 6 amps, right?? Just curious as to why you would run a separate fused circuit??? I'm in the process of adding this same relay on the 800 as well, seeing as it came to me wired just like bikerbob's. My plans were to use the blue/red wire (the one that currently powers the aux. lights) for the TRIGGER on the aux. lights (through an additional fuse, and dedicated switch). Then the Aux. (double bullet connector) for the POWER on the lights (through the relay of course) .... plans can change, though, it's still early.
One of them is ground, one is power. They are constant, directly connected to the battery. They are protected by a 10 a fuse. The other set is bundled under the fuel tank on a 1500, at the left side of the steering head. If you have the tank off, you look straight down the they are at about 10 o'clock. I would NOT use them for this application. Run a fused power circuit to your relay, and trigger the relay off the low beam headlamp circuit. That way, the lights will only come on when the switch is on and the headlight is in low beam (Federal/State law about aux. lighting).
BTW, found no Aux Bullet connectors in the bucket...........must be under the dash plate.........plus the ones under the seat.
BobThanks for the input guys..............the Red/Blue wire that they used for power was cut.......so I've just got a wire screw on it for now.........I intended to just solder it back together or at least a butt connetcter with shrink wrap, and then just run my power to the relay from one of the front Aux power leads. Also, one of my power leads under the seat is dead.............now I'm unfamiliar with how Drifters work.......so should both leads have power and be able to handle a total of four bullet connectors? Just my wht/blu stripe wire is live right now
I imagine the wire they spliced was to the running lights as they come with the ignition.(red/Blu stripe)
Thanks again
Bob
Semper Fi
Bikerbob, the diagram shows a 3-wire switch, like for a lighted switch. If yours just has 2 wires disregard the ground wire coming off the switch. There is a power wire and ground wire in the headlight bucket (double bayonet connectors) that you can use for the power and ground to the relay if you wish. For the "supply" wire to the switch, you could use the current wire you described that is powering the lights. That way it is only powering the relay - very low power draw. The power that burns the lights, then, will be coming through the relay on the new circuit.
Just like Troll said- easy...
Start with replacing the bulbs. 55w is WAYYYYYYY too much for the system. This diagram is pretty close to what you should set up. Easy...
The PO stated that the DL's never worked, or at least sporadically. Well, they're on a two prong rocker switch, one power, the other ground(grounded by the light bases on the bar). The power side was Scotch-locked to red/blu wire in the headlight bucket, no fuses, no relays. Now, I know this is wrong but I'm just not quite sure how to wire up a 5 point relay to this type of switch.
The lamps are running 55W bulbs. Anyone care to walk me thru this? I know to fuse as close to my power source as possible to pin 30 and use 87 as my output, but 85 and 86 stymie me a little since one is a ground.
Any advice and help will be much appreciated.
Bob
PS I HATE scotch-locks too!!!!!!
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