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Posted by topherloaf
- December 11, 2010, 10:11:51 AMI put those on a while back. Only rode around with them out one day.
Posted by Troll
- December 11, 2010, 09:00:42 AMI just read your post about the exhaust on your 800. Try putting the "quiet" mufflers back on and see what happens. I'm willing to bet the open exhaust flow is over scavenging your fuel system, causing a lean condition especially when cold air (which has more oxygen in it) is entering to process, aggravating the lean condition. Just a side note: I am a retired ASE Master Tech, and my specialty was fuel systems and driveability issues, with both conventional and electronic systems, and even diesels.
Posted by Troll
- December 11, 2010, 08:49:10 AM The carb on your bike is a simple unit. The jet kit comes with pretty extensive instructions. If you don't want to tackle it, surely you must know somebody who has some experience with carbs. I would hate to see somebody pay a shop to do this kind of work, but I suppose it would help stimulate the economy....... 
I've always felt that getting to know the internals of you bike was more of a bonding thing, than an actual bit of work. I was very well bonded with all my H-Ds as a result of being inside them, WAY TOO OFTEN. I told a friend of mine, the other day, that the biggest problem that I have with my 2 Kawasakis is that they don't need anything over the winter. He has a softail, and understood exactly what I was talking about. His bike is currently parked in his living room.
Posted by topherloaf
- December 10, 2010, 22:41:17 PMI really don't know how to do any carb work.
Posted by Troll
- December 10, 2010, 19:05:57 PMIn order to keep the EPA happy, carbed bikes are forced to have very lean midrange jetting. If it's 90 deg out, then you have little or no problem, but if it's cold, it could cause the problems you are describing. I bought a 2000 W-650 from Florida for my birthday in '09 and it ran terrible, exactly as you are describing, until I took the carbs apart, raised the needles about .050 inches, and drilled out the tamper proof caps, and adjusted the idle mixture to a state more like reality. When it's cold out here (30-35 deg) it runs bad for the first mile or so, but when it's warm here, it runs nearly perfect even cold. Adjusting the needles only fixed the lean midrange, didn't effect the fuel mileage. I'm getting 50+ on the highway, and it runs so much better, it's like a different bike. The original owner only put 9000 miles on it in 9 years, I put 8000 on it since Feb. of '09 You might want to look into a jet kit, like from Dynojet. The kit for my W is around $80, but it has 2 carbs. If you decide to do this with the jetting, don't get carried away, since it's really easy to make it too rich and cause other problems. R.T.F.M.
Posted by theylive
- December 10, 2010, 12:50:46 PMYes, just mix it in w/your fuel... It may help you it may not and you can buy it in the automotive section at Wal Mart or Ace hardware ect..
Posted by topherloaf
- December 10, 2010, 11:34:07 AMJust put it in the tank? I put a fuel cleaner in a month ago when I changed the plugs.
Posted by theylive
- December 10, 2010, 11:18:47 AMI had a similar problem. I would suggest you pick up a pint of "sea foam" and run several ounces through your fuel, that should cure any hesitation and cleans your carbs ... amazing product. Who cares who's way your in... you're a biker 
Posted by topherloaf
- December 10, 2010, 11:11:53 AMI mean, I let it warm up, I revved it, I even rode it while the choke was out and it acted normal. So when I pushed the choke in, it started stalling and acting like it wasn't warm yet. Should I just ride around with the choke partly pulled out? I'm so irritated at it because I was in people's way and it was embarrassing. It looked like I didn't know how to ride a motorcycle.