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Posted by Troll
- August 26, 2014, 18:18:45 PMLet's start with a few simple checks. This is not a very complicated system, at least by car standards, so it should be pretty easy to nail it down. First, take off the r/s air box cover. Inside you will see the throttle body and the two cold idle air bleed solenoids. Hold the throttle open with one hand and shine a flashlight down the bore. You will see where the injectors spray fuel. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder...doesn't matter which ones, just so you have two of the 4 out. With someone holding the throttle open so you can look into the bore, shine the flashlight and crank the engine and see if you see fuel spray. Alternatively, you could stick your finger or a long piece of cardboard in the see if it gets wet with fuel. If it does, then you have just checked the injection system. The ignition system is completely independent of the injection, and is essentially the same as on a carbed engine. Hold a spark plug with the wire connected to the terminal against the engine...somewhere it's NOT painted, and look for a spark at the plug. If you have fuel spray and spark, then the bike is ok, and maybe the fuel you're trying to burn won't. A couple of months of sitting with the crap they call gasoline, now a days is enough to turn it into varnish....Post the results when you can. I'm really thinking it's still flooded.
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 26, 2014, 16:41:31 PMbike has not been dropped or layer down.
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 26, 2014, 16:35:45 PMwhat do you mean incomplete combustion and how do i fix it? is it time for a mechanic to look at it?
Posted by Troll
- August 26, 2014, 16:28:07 PMSooty means there is incomplete combustion. Damn, I wish I could lay hands on this bike....
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 26, 2014, 15:10:50 PMthey were a sooty, not really wet though
Posted by Troll
- August 26, 2014, 15:02:06 PMIf the EFI light goes out after a few seconds, then it's ok. Were the plugs you took out wet/black/sooty? If the sensor triggers, the EFI light will blink until the ign. is cycled off-on....
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 26, 2014, 14:38:13 PMwhere is the vehicle- down sensor and how do i check to see if that is the problem?
Posted by 49Reo
- August 25, 2014, 11:11:00 AMMine has flooded twice on me over the years; both times, the battery was a bit low from sitting. I pulled the plugs for an hour to let the cylinders air out, and charged the battery at the same time; left plugs out and charger on for an hour minimum.
Also, since you have been trying for quite a while, and if it has been flooding the whole while, you may need to change the oil, as it could be contaminated and thinned by the gas seeping past the rings. This won't be a starting issue, but is something to think about when you do get it running.
Posted by chief
- August 25, 2014, 09:29:17 AMOkay, start simple...
1) bike has been sitting for a while... check the FUEL!, Check the Vehicle down sensor, check the kickstand switch and the clutch switch. Carefully go through your routine start procedure, neutral, kill switch on, ignition in right position, etc.2) Since you are unsure what fuses go to what... check ALL the fuses. (Get a service manual). You may have popped more than one component.
3) Check the plugs and make sure you are getting fuel - after you try to start, pull a plug and check if there is fuel present on the plug tip.
NO = pull plug on opposite side and check, if still no check the fuel pump.
YES = Check Spark.
4) Check to ensure you have good spark... (look up how to check for spark)
NO = If you don't it could be bad plugs, wires or ECU. You will need to perform an ECU self-diagnostic, replace plugs and wires.
= Check the vehicle down sensor!
YES = could be compression problem... not likely in this case.
5) The ECU self-diagnostic will test the pickup coils, injectors, etc.
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 25, 2014, 09:24:39 AMroger that
Posted by Troll
- August 25, 2014, 09:21:38 AMPull out one of the plugs and look to see if it's wet. If there was a lot of fuel in the cylinders, it could have wet the new plugs. I always crank a flooded engine withe plugs out and the throttle wide open for a few seconds to expel any unburned fuel before putting new plugs. Sometimes I forget that not everybody has been doing the for 40 years...
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 25, 2014, 08:55:51 AMok so new plugs in and set to proper gap same thing will crank but not start. what next?
Posted by Gooseberrie
- August 24, 2014, 22:12:03 PMYou are miles instead of kilometers ahead of me USCGcookie. The same bike.
I bought mine last winter and it would not even start after only a three week period. The engine turns noticeably more freely now, so just maybe the problem of getting it running is worse on low millage. 14 km/liter then and 18 km/liter now. The injection keeps pumping gas merciless when it does not ignite and you'll over-flood the cylinder soon. After a 4 minutes break it started right up but it should not have taken much longer. I know better now and will try more times shorter. Repeatedly ten seconds and not like almost one minute when it is added up. Carbs are easier.
I don't recommend changing for dry spark plugs. When you get the distinct gas smell from the exhaust you will have to wait. I always open the throttle to let more air in when it floods but without effect so far. Take a coffee break, clean a tire, charge the battery back up in the meantime and try again.
Some tips: Have sufficient idle or else the "fast idle" intake air-temperature sensor may surprise you when it does not work or even when it stops working and the engine quits. Use the choke. Pushing the choke back in while trying has worked for me on some bikes. Check the panic buttons position and rock it gently back and forth a couple of times. Try changing gear then back to neutral and pull the clutch, on at least one attempt, this because of the safety switches then being canceled. Starter-fluid in the intake is a good idea mostly but first let others comment on the risks involved. Throttle should remain closed when you start the bike.
The fusebox where you are possibly still looking for is behind the coolant reserve tank, that you can pull off or there is only one bolt, I forgot. The fuses are to be extracted with a small plastic fuse plier. It would be great when more fuses sacrificed the moment you did this mad experiment. You do have a high Amperage battery and the terminals clean connected? Switch the lights off on the attempt. Next is checking for spark. Greetings. Alfred, The Netherlands
Posted by Troll
- August 24, 2014, 19:45:08 PMIf you have the factory tool kit, it has a correct plug wrench/socket. If you don't you need a 6 point 18mm socket that doesn't have very think walls. I would suggest you use a 3/8 drive socket to limit the torque. Do you have an owner's manual? The tool kit, if it hasn't gone missing, is in a tray behind the left side cover. The bottom of the area you see when you open the cover is actually the top of a drawer that holds the kit....
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 24, 2014, 19:29:34 PMmine is a 99 with 20k miles