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Posted by Gooseberrie
- August 24, 2014, 22:12:03 PMYou are miles instead of kilometers ahead of me USCGcookie. The same bike.
I bought mine last winter and it would not even start after only a three week period. The engine turns noticeably more freely now, so just maybe the problem of getting it running is worse on low millage. 14 km/liter then and 18 km/liter now. The injection keeps pumping gas merciless when it does not ignite and you'll over-flood the cylinder soon. After a 4 minutes break it started right up but it should not have taken much longer. I know better now and will try more times shorter. Repeatedly ten seconds and not like almost one minute when it is added up. Carbs are easier.
I don't recommend changing for dry spark plugs. When you get the distinct gas smell from the exhaust you will have to wait. I always open the throttle to let more air in when it floods but without effect so far. Take a coffee break, clean a tire, charge the battery back up in the meantime and try again.
Some tips: Have sufficient idle or else the "fast idle" intake air-temperature sensor may surprise you when it does not work or even when it stops working and the engine quits. Use the choke. Pushing the choke back in while trying has worked for me on some bikes. Check the panic buttons position and rock it gently back and forth a couple of times. Try changing gear then back to neutral and pull the clutch, on at least one attempt, this because of the safety switches then being canceled. Starter-fluid in the intake is a good idea mostly but first let others comment on the risks involved. Throttle should remain closed when you start the bike.
The fusebox where you are possibly still looking for is behind the coolant reserve tank, that you can pull off or there is only one bolt, I forgot. The fuses are to be extracted with a small plastic fuse plier. It would be great when more fuses sacrificed the moment you did this mad experiment. You do have a high Amperage battery and the terminals clean connected? Switch the lights off on the attempt. Next is checking for spark. Greetings. Alfred, The Netherlands
Posted by Troll
- August 24, 2014, 19:45:08 PMIf you have the factory tool kit, it has a correct plug wrench/socket. If you don't you need a 6 point 18mm socket that doesn't have very think walls. I would suggest you use a 3/8 drive socket to limit the torque. Do you have an owner's manual? The tool kit, if it hasn't gone missing, is in a tray behind the left side cover. The bottom of the area you see when you open the cover is actually the top of a drawer that holds the kit....
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 24, 2014, 19:29:34 PMmine is a 99 with 20k miles
Posted by Troll
- August 24, 2014, 19:28:08 PMI would guess that the plugs are the next thing to do. Wet plugs from insufficient power while cranking won't fire...you'll get the occasional puff or pop, but no running. If you have more than 10,000 miles on the bike, then new plugs are in order, anyway. What year is it? My "'01" was actually 14 years old in July.
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 24, 2014, 19:23:24 PMas soon as i turn the ignition i can hear the buzz noise. and the FI light goes off.
Posted by Troll
- August 24, 2014, 19:20:52 PMDo you hear the fuel pump run? Pull the plugs, and maybe replace them. When my battery was failing, mine would flood once in a while.
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 24, 2014, 19:13:56 PMso i changed the fuse got power back and tried starting and even bought a new battery with more cca, now will turn over but will not start, i get little puff of it trying to start but no rumble, if that makes since. What can it be now or what do i do? it hasn't been cranked in 2.5 months
Posted by Troll
- August 18, 2014, 05:49:33 AMElectronic Fuel Injection
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 17, 2014, 20:11:38 PMEFI?
Posted by Troll
- August 17, 2014, 19:41:40 PMThe one by the battery in the white holder is the EFI main, the one in the fuse box is the main for the whole bike
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 17, 2014, 19:15:51 PMwhat is the 30A to? again I'm not at bike...
Posted by Troll
- August 17, 2014, 19:01:44 PMFuses are there to prevent damage to the electrical system I suspect the green 30 A fuse is blown
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 17, 2014, 18:58:28 PMalso when i say no power, not a single sound or light. absolute nothing
Posted by USCGcookie
- August 17, 2014, 18:57:24 PMthanks TROLL, i will check that out as soon as i return home myself, i was told could be a relay also (possibly) how hard are they to change?
Posted by Troll
- August 17, 2014, 18:40:33 PMI don't have my service manual here, on the road, but the fuse box inside the right side cover, right by the coolant tank is where to look next.