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Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 27, 2014, 08:44:33 AM
Quote from: Troll on July 26, 2014, 14:36:43 PM

Yep...I didn't leave the blue one open, until I found out that I needed to by having the engine stop with a half tank of fuel...opened the cap and it ran again. I thought there was a pressure vent in the cap that worked both ways, but it doesn't..

Glad I'm on the right page then. Where do have the blue line venting to? I'm thinking about getting a filter to try to keep any dirt from getting where it shouldn't.
Posted by Troll
 - July 26, 2014, 14:36:43 PM

Yep...I didn't leave the blue one open, until I found out that I needed to by having the engine stop with a half tank of fuel...opened the cap and it ran again. I thought there was a pressure vent in the cap that worked both ways, but it doesn't..

Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 26, 2014, 12:20:40 PM

About the only thing I'm sure of is that I need to leave a vent for the gas tank. The rest is kind of an educated crapshoot at this point. I attached a diagram of where all the hose go and attach. What I've researched has led me to this:

Yellow hose at carb- This can be capped This should be left open to vent
Green hose at intake-This can be capped
Blue hose at right hand of tank-This needs to stay, this is the tank vent.
Red hose on left hand side of tank-This can be capped
vacuum line- This can also be capped

And obviously the hose going between the two parts will be removed.

Does this sound correct? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Posted by Troll
 - July 26, 2014, 09:07:15 AM
Quote from: gdrudd13 on July 26, 2014, 08:59:26 AM

Well, I think I figured out how to get rid of all that stuff. Hopefully in the next couple days I'll be able to test out my plan. I figure it'll be pretty obvious. It'll either run or it won't.

Just make sure you keep an atmosphere vent open...

Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 26, 2014, 08:59:26 AM

Well, I think I figured out how to get rid of all that stuff. Hopefully in the next couple days I'll be able to test out my plan. I figure it'll be pretty obvious. It'll either run or it won't.

Posted by Troll
 - July 26, 2014, 08:23:19 AM

It's the only thing that ever fell off, unlike my ThunderBolt....

Posted by greenbarn
 - July 25, 2014, 21:44:58 PM
Quote from: Troll on July 25, 2014, 16:11:35 PM

I got my "W" with the California emissions package" on it, and that crap just fell off one day...

..... on the floor of your workshop.... ;D ::)

Posted by Troll
 - July 25, 2014, 16:11:35 PM

I got my "W" with the California emissions package" on it, and that crap just fell off one day...

Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 25, 2014, 15:46:03 PM

Okay, so air ride kit came in today. Seems to be a nice quality kit. Nice thing is that it is all pre-wired for the install. I've wired in two air systems into Jeeps, and they're not overly fun to wire so it was a welcome surprise. This picture doesn't include the stuff for the gauge mount though. To do that there will be additional tubing, and a couple extra fittings. It should be very easy to add it.

I did read through the instructions, and the place they give for mounting it is on the right side tool area where it is easily accessible but also locked. I'll have to find somewhere else to put it because I have a canister there (stupid CA model...). Not sure where else there would be space to mount it other than build a bracket in one of the saddlebags. The other option is to get rid of the emissions stuff, but I don't know the first thing about that, or what the consequences would be if I removed all of that. That will require some research.

Any ideas from the experts about ditching the emissions stuff, or alternate places to mount the compressor (as long as it's protected).

Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 24, 2014, 20:26:18 PM

I'll try to be as thorough as I can, and take a lot of pictures. I can't find anyone that has done this on a Vulcan 800, much less a Drifter, so hopefully it goes well. It's kind of uncharted territory as far as I know.

Posted by greenbarn
 - July 24, 2014, 19:42:08 PM

Looking forward to the next post.  I like the fact you put on a materials list here. 

Posted by CDNRatMan
 - July 24, 2014, 11:44:57 AM

Documentation and lots of pictures as evidence that it was done and how so. Really getting to think this idea is going to a really cool project.

Posted by gdrudd13
 - July 24, 2014, 10:54:57 AM

My air ride kit is supposed to be delivered tomorrow, so I'll start a full write up on the whole experience.

So first is a parts list. I'm sure this will need to be updated as the project goes on.
-   Air Ride Kit: $826.00 shipped
http://www.bikerbrackets.com/bbalpaypal.htm
-   VIAIR 1.5" Gauge: $7.95 shipped
http://www.viaircorp.com/images/schematics/90085.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J10Z3I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-   Gauge Mount: ? Scrap Aluminum 0.10" thick
-   Bolt Spacers: Custom/Scrap (Can be bought for <$2)
These had to be made so that they fit correctly, (ID and OD and height). If it didn't bother you, there are spacers that would fit OD, but
needed cut down for height and the ID was oversized. I didn't want this so custom made it is. Dimensions for these would be: OD-0.7"; ID-0.4"
and overall height is 0.5". This is tall enough for the gauge mount to not rest on the bar mount.
-   Bolts: $3.50
M10x1.25-35mm bolts. I used standard hex head that will be painted black but on the list to get if I can find them for a decent price are button
head socket cap screws. These were bought at the local True Value store.

-       Shock Bolt: $4.19
M12x1.25x(forgot to write length, grip length should be about the same as the stock grip+thread length) bought at local hardware store

-       Washers: 2x @ $0.39 ea.
12mm washers. pretty standard. Bought at local hardware store.

-       Additional Plastic Air Line: $18.00 (est. the guy helping me had some from past project)
1/4" OD plastic tubing only need about 6 feet but extra is nice to have, can be bought at:
http://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Brake-Tubing-Suspenion-Lowrider/dp/B00CLXGHQU/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1407101974&sr=8-18&keywords=1%2F4+plastic+air+tubing

-      Push to connect "T" fitting: $3.50 (est. The guy also had one of these)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M8T1H4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

-      Push to connect Elbow for gauge: $3.88 These are out of stock, but It's what I'm going with eventually. I bought some adapters to make due until it comes in.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PT2H9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gauge Location/Mount:
-   I decided to put mine on the bottom edge of the handlebar risers utilizing the two existing bolt holes. Spacers will be needed to offset the countersink
in the risers. This gives good visibility of the gauge. The other reason for this setup is that I currently use a windshield bag which would conflict with
the gauge mount.
-   The gauge is the VIAR 90085 1.5" Gauge. It is the one that fits without weakening the mount too much. It also looks pretty close to the factory gauge,
including the chrome bezel.
-   Gauge Mount made from 0.10" Aluminum sheet. Use whatever material you wish. My mount with dimensions is shown. The reason there are two is that
one was used to reference dimensions, the other was used as a template.
-   Note: Gauge is not necessary, but I wanted to know what pressure my shock is running for repeatability.
-   Requires replacing the lower two of the handlebar bolts with longer ones.

Next post will be about the kit when it arrives. The plan is to get the spacers and the gauge mount finished in the next few days as well.

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