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Posted by Harleymanz
- July 03, 2014, 09:31:52 AMI just now did that connected power to the wire on the pump started the bike and it continued to run. It takes a few times touching the battery though to get the pump to come on. The bike does run when it's connected this way. As soon as I remove the wire it dies. I am suspecting something else is wrong since it just clicks a few times before the pump kicks in. It did this before itermittingly before when the bike was running until it finally quit. Your doing great at distance troubleshooting I wish I was more adept at reading your diagrams so I could help more thank you very much for your assistance
Posted by Troll
- July 03, 2014, 08:27:25 AMIf you put power to the pump, it runs. It's most likely a problem with this single wire. When the relay energizes, the pump should run, but it doesn't, so the voltage, which you measured at the connector, is not there, unless you jump the power from the battery...Correct? I'm still looking at a bad connection/broken wire between the relay and the pump...This stuff is so hard to figure out by remote control! Put power to the pump, leave it connected, and start the engine. DO NOT remove the power, and see what happens. I'll bet it continues to run.
Posted by Harleymanz
- July 03, 2014, 08:20:42 AMAnother dumb question could it be the efi ?
Posted by Troll
- July 02, 2014, 14:55:51 PMIt's the pin with the red/white wire coming out of the EFI relay under the right side cover.
Posted by Harleymanz
- July 02, 2014, 12:12:33 PMCan I get a pic of which pin feeds the fuel pump. Can I run a new wire from ignition to feed it ?
Posted by Troll
- July 01, 2014, 09:17:46 AMProbably not
Posted by Harleymanz
- July 01, 2014, 09:08:12 AMOk will do I noticed a clicking sound down near the fuel injector and I had to feed the positive to the fuel pump a few times before it would actually pump any sign of another problem ?
Posted by Troll
- July 01, 2014, 07:38:41 AMCheck for power at the points listed with the key on.
Posted by Harleymanz
- July 01, 2014, 06:44:40 AMWhere do I start ? Ticket to Florida ? 
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Posted by Troll
- June 30, 2014, 13:24:15 PMThe pump is not being controlled by the computer, as it's supposed to be. If you have to put B+ to the wire at the pump, then there is most likely an open circuit between the relay and the pump. There is a junction where the B+ wire runs to pin 31 on the computer (turns it on) and the main efi relay. There should be power at all the points with the arrow pointing to them. The relay is ok, because the computer will not turn on without it. Simple broken wires will make you crazy until you find them
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 30, 2014, 12:35:18 PMOk update I pierced a wire on gas tank positive ran it to the positive on battery. Fuel pump came on and bike started to turn over and then died after I removed wire.
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 30, 2014, 09:52:05 AMI used the pin down on wire 5 got the required voltage. Still no pump. You are talking about a ground. Is there a way of testing that ? I so owe you what ever beverage you drink ! Is there a fuse I may be missing ?
Posted by Troll
- June 27, 2014, 11:08:42 AMOk, back from the garage. I have pictures! First off, let me apologize for assuming everybody can read and understand a wiring diagram. I've been in the auto service business for 45 years, and I'm a G.M. special electronics tech, or was, before I "retired". I look at these systems and I can automatically see how they work. I know that not everybody looks at these and can do that. These are really simple circuits, especially compared to a car, so let's look at what I found. First off, no matter which book you look in, pin 5 on the white plug of the computer is listed as unused. This is NOT true. I fought for and got this information from Kawasaki's dealer only tech line. Pin 5 carries a reference voltage from the ign. switch to prove to the computer that the switch has not been tampered with. I back probed the connector and got a ref. voltage of 0.765 V D.C. Back probed??? What does that mean... Simply, it means you take a long, thin needle (I snagged one with a big knob on the end) and slide it down along the wire past the weatherproof seal, until it bottoms out against the connector. YOU DO NOT PIERCE THE WIRE!!!! This method gives the most accurate results without damaging the harness. Without this signal to the computer, then fuel pump will not run. I hope the diagrams make more sense, now. There is a power ground for the fuel pump that goes through the computer. At key up, the ground is complete, and the pump runs for 2 seconds. If you don't start the engine, the ground goes open (no path for power flow). If the engine is running, the path to ground is continuous as long as the power is on.
Posted by Troll
- June 27, 2014, 09:52:57 AMOK...so here's what I'm going to do. The weather here is currently pretty nasty, with thunderstorms and torrential rain, like we've been having all "spring", so I decided to try to help with this problem some people are having by taking voltage and resistance readings on my own bike, and publishing them here. I'm going out the garage right now, and I'll have the readings, a diagram and a picture of the mysterious "pin 5" on the computer, and it's voltage from the switch to the pin.
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 25, 2014, 13:37:44 PMNo fuel pump did not come on. I ran a line from battery to fuel pump and it came on and bike started and stuttered and quit