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Posted by Harleymanz
- June 30, 2014, 12:35:18 PMOk update I pierced a wire on gas tank positive ran it to the positive on battery. Fuel pump came on and bike started to turn over and then died after I removed wire.
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 30, 2014, 09:52:05 AMI used the pin down on wire 5 got the required voltage. Still no pump. You are talking about a ground. Is there a way of testing that ? I so owe you what ever beverage you drink ! Is there a fuse I may be missing ?
Posted by Troll
- June 27, 2014, 11:08:42 AMOk, back from the garage. I have pictures! First off, let me apologize for assuming everybody can read and understand a wiring diagram. I've been in the auto service business for 45 years, and I'm a G.M. special electronics tech, or was, before I "retired". I look at these systems and I can automatically see how they work. I know that not everybody looks at these and can do that. These are really simple circuits, especially compared to a car, so let's look at what I found. First off, no matter which book you look in, pin 5 on the white plug of the computer is listed as unused. This is NOT true. I fought for and got this information from Kawasaki's dealer only tech line. Pin 5 carries a reference voltage from the ign. switch to prove to the computer that the switch has not been tampered with. I back probed the connector and got a ref. voltage of 0.765 V D.C. Back probed??? What does that mean... Simply, it means you take a long, thin needle (I snagged one with a big knob on the end) and slide it down along the wire past the weatherproof seal, until it bottoms out against the connector. YOU DO NOT PIERCE THE WIRE!!!! This method gives the most accurate results without damaging the harness. Without this signal to the computer, then fuel pump will not run. I hope the diagrams make more sense, now. There is a power ground for the fuel pump that goes through the computer. At key up, the ground is complete, and the pump runs for 2 seconds. If you don't start the engine, the ground goes open (no path for power flow). If the engine is running, the path to ground is continuous as long as the power is on.
Posted by Troll
- June 27, 2014, 09:52:57 AMOK...so here's what I'm going to do. The weather here is currently pretty nasty, with thunderstorms and torrential rain, like we've been having all "spring", so I decided to try to help with this problem some people are having by taking voltage and resistance readings on my own bike, and publishing them here. I'm going out the garage right now, and I'll have the readings, a diagram and a picture of the mysterious "pin 5" on the computer, and it's voltage from the switch to the pin.
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 25, 2014, 13:37:44 PMNo fuel pump did not come on. I ran a line from battery to fuel pump and it came on and bike started and stuttered and quit
Posted by Troll
- June 25, 2014, 13:00:48 PMQuote from: Harleymanz on June 25, 2014, 11:50:32 AMNo I was reading on here and most said replace ignition switch so I did. Didn't help
Do you hear the fuel pump come on and prime the system?
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 25, 2014, 11:50:32 AMNo I was reading on here and most said replace ignition switch so I did. Didn't help 
Posted by chief
- June 25, 2014, 09:37:10 AMFirst, how did you know the switch was the problem in the first place? Did you test the switch and find a fault?
There are a lot of reasons why a bike will crank but not start...Posted by Troll
- June 24, 2014, 21:29:13 PMwhite/red is B+ off the relay, the other one (black/white) runs to ground through the computer...
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 24, 2014, 20:58:21 PMOk what color on the pump ? So if I ground it the bike should start ?
Posted by Troll
- June 24, 2014, 19:26:19 PMThe one colored blue
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 24, 2014, 19:23:31 PMWhich one is the ground to the pump ?
Posted by Troll
- June 24, 2014, 18:31:36 PMI have colored the pertinent circuits. If I read your message correctly, the bike will run if you put power to the fuel pump.
The computer relies on a signal on pin 5 to tell it that everything is correct. If the pump does not run with the key, there can only be a couple of possible problems. Sure, the computer could be bad, but these are pretty robust, so that's like the last thing to worry about. There is no point in running the self diagnostic program, the computer will not set a fail code until the engine starts. You can rule out the tip over switch, too. That kills the spark, and you have spark. Check the GROUND to the pump....There is no "fuel pump relay" as such, it uses one main DFI relay to power everything.
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 24, 2014, 16:01:11 PMOh the new switch did not work
Posted by Harleymanz
- June 24, 2014, 12:47:39 PMWell I ordered a new ignition switch for my 2001 drifter because it wouldn't start. I turns over fine. Lights come on. I ran a positive to fuel pump it comes on. Any ideas past this ?