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Posted by chief
- June 03, 2014, 10:58:03 AMMemphis Shades have ALWAYS said their setup will not work on the Drifter. A few Drifter riders have used other mounting hardware and made it work. Personally its not worth the hassle. Go with National Cycle if you like the tinted stuff... Rifle makes good plastic that will fit F&S brackets. Check the products section of the website.
Posted by greenbarn
- June 03, 2014, 10:36:03 AMCan anyone tell me why a w/s for a Classic would not work on the Drifter? I had the understanding the Drifter has the same fork setup as the Classics? However, customer service from Memphis Shades replied to my email that they don't offer anything for a Drifter. I asked about the Classic, explaining I thought the forks were the same, and their reply was a very un-informative "No the classic will not work on the drifter".
What am I missing??
Posted by drifter-paul
- June 03, 2014, 05:03:18 AMMoosewing3
The mounts in links that you have provided look like mine (National Cycle) that's how they are - the bottom of the screen clears the
headlight by a good 3".
They are a two man job to take on and off easily, but I only do it very occasionally. I have noticed any problems , I'm 5'7" with short legs.
Posted by Gooseberrie
- June 02, 2014, 22:57:40 PMI haven't seen this subframe on any of your Drifters. It is adjustable in all directions and there is a rectangle, girdle, where it attaches to. Is it not original accessory? The paint on it looks worn. How is it called? I could make more pictures when it is important to anyone. I like the thing and no stems are in the way. Only it looks older then the bike.
Posted by greenbarn
- June 02, 2014, 21:02:35 PMI spent some time e-mailing some of the windshield companies, to tell me exactly what I would need to either fit a mount to my w/s or vice-versa. Hopefully I'll come up with the best solution, and it won't cost an arm and a leg.
Posted by greenbarn
- June 02, 2014, 20:13:01 PMI'm not really experiencing huge difficulties that I'm aware of from the gap above the headlight- Just wondered if there any problems from it I should be looking for.
That, and I think it would look better lower.
Posted by pcarrell
- June 02, 2014, 07:58:39 AMRatman, just think of me as your American Ambassador!
As I've mentioned before, I have the Fire & Steel Nomad style shield, and I don't have any spacers or washers to deal with.the bolts go right into the threaded mounts and that's it. My shield is in the halfway up position and I have a 1 1/2" gap between the shield and the headlight. There is virtually no gap between the shield and the spotlights, but I did the No-bar light bar trick, so that explains that. If I'd have used a proper light bar, I'd have loads of room for sure.
I don't seem to have the problem that you're talking about with the gap over the headlight and air flow. I wonder if that's because I have a small leather storage bag on the inside of my shield that is diverting the air? Could a solution be that simple? It sits right down on the risers. Here's a pic of the bag mounted.
Posted by greenbarn
- June 02, 2014, 07:49:50 AMQuote from: CDNRatMan on June 01, 2014, 23:00:14 PMat least you have 2 boys to ask for a extra hand
.........
Yea, but they're NEVER around... except meal time 
Posted by CDNRatMan
- June 01, 2014, 23:00:14 PMQuoteI have 2 spacers, and I thought it was just me who had issues with doing it alone, at least you have 2 boys to ask for a extra hand and I know your lovely missus would like to help you out.......I need to train my fish to help me out.........there are 1/4" spacers between the windscreen brackets and the fork mount. That's not much fun trying to thread bolts through the bracket, then through a spacer, then into the threaded mount - all 4 of them - while trying to hold the windscreen with the other hand
I would ask PC but not sure if he is allowed across the border.........
Posted by moosewing3
- June 01, 2014, 22:41:37 PMWill probably give the adjustment you need with the proper mounts, definitely easier to get off and adjust but they are rather pricey if it doesn't give you what you need.
Posted by greenbarn
- June 01, 2014, 22:18:39 PMThanks for all of the input on this, I appreciate the feedback. Looks like I have a few options.
I had originally thought of just cutting down the top of the screen, as the cheapest/easiest. But it's already down as far as it will go on the mounts, and it's against the spots, and there is still a big gap between the headlight, so if I cut off say 3" and then moved it up a little to get it off the spot lights, I'd have an even bigger gap. One more thing I haven't mentioned- to make this fit on the mounts, there are 1/4" spacers between the windscreen brackets and the fork mount. That's not much fun trying to thread bolts through the bracket, then through a spacer, then into the threaded mount - all 4 of them - while trying to hold the windscreen with the other hand. So I'm kind of thinking about changing something to help this situation too.
That leaves me with either A) buying National Cycle fork mounts and use the windscreen I've got, or B) buy a new original-style windscreen w/ brackets and keep the existing mount. Is one of these options inherently better than the other?? Does either one have a quick mount or something making it easier on/off? I guess option B gets me brand new glass with no scratches. The current glass is in pretty good shape- some scratches on the top 3" but they might clean up or might get trimmed off if I kept it.
Posted by LarryInSeattle
- June 01, 2014, 00:09:53 AMYou can cut it down with a gig saw and then sand the edges with a sanding block and it will look just like a factory cut shield.
I cut mine windshield off my Goldwing down and it looked great. It was very easy to do.
Use some 3 inch wide blue masking tape to cover the edge of the shield so that it doesn't get scratched from the gig saw frame. Use a piece of cardboard to trace the original curve. Sit on the bike and look though the windshield.... and look down the road and imagine you are looking at something 50 yards away. Mark that spot on the shield. Now, you can adjust to your liking below that mark on the shield.
Trace that cardboard with a sharpie onto the masking tape and cut away.
Note: Use a hard rubber sanding block and add your own sand paper. Do not use one of the foam sanding blocks. You will benefit the use of the hard rubber sanding block as it will act as a straight end in taking out any high or low spots from your cut. If you use the foam sanding block it will just conform to your cut and won't take out those spots.
You must post pictures of your cut windshield when you are done.
Also, if you do decide to buy a different windshield rather than cut yours down, just buy the windshield blank. You don't need to buy all of that expensive hardware again. I broke my shield off of my C50 Suzuki and I bought a replacement blank for $40.
Posted by aralph
- May 29, 2014, 16:40:00 PMMy 1500 came with a National screen, but it is a 2 piece. The lower portion is adjustable to allow for a nice even fit around the headlight. Also it was a bit to tall for my liking so I had it shorten by 3". It is similar to model # N2220. I just wish there was a quick connect setup for it.
http://shop.nationalcycle.com/perl/cycle/results2.html?search_model=ka-042
aralph
Posted by chief
- May 29, 2014, 15:57:46 PMI had the F&S shield and replaced the plastic with a Rifle... but here are some options for you...
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/reviewpost/showcat.php?cat=23Posted by moosewing3
- May 29, 2014, 10:10:59 AMI had the National Cyle Shorty on my Classic same problem with the gap around the headlight, but tbh the stock Drifter shield I have has pretty much the same amount of gap. That also looks like you have the NC shield mounted on the stock brackets, most NC shields mount with fork tube mounts so perhaps that would explain your lack of proper adjustment. Below are the actual mounts NC makes for the Drifter 1500.