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Posted by mumbles
- May 05, 2014, 18:12:28 PMDangit Ratman, you got me scratching the ol' noggin now !!
All of the air cleaner stuff that's underneath the tank has been removed on my bike so the air cleaner comes right off without taking the tank off. I don't think it was off.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 05, 2014, 15:28:34 PMI'm only asking because I had my tank off when I removed all the air cleaner stuff and cannot remember if you can go that far with the tank on....
Posted by mumbles
- May 05, 2014, 14:02:26 PMQuote from: CDNRatMan on May 04, 2014, 10:16:58 AMI can't remember if it was off Ratman.Would you have to go as far as taking the tank off?
Or was yours off for another reason?
The instrument panel will have to be removed to access the radiator filler neck.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 04, 2014, 10:16:58 AM Would you have to go as far as taking the tank off?
Or was yours off for another reason?
Posted by mumbles
- May 04, 2014, 09:37:42 AMParts needed and prices from Partzilla
1 11060-1926
GASKET,CLUTCH COVER
$27.51
1 670B2021
O RING,21MM
$1.96
2 92093-1427
SEAL
$1.96
Posted by mumbles
- May 04, 2014, 09:31:44 AMSorry guys I had a lot more pics but for some reason they got deleted from my computer. Here are a few...
Remove = Front exhaust, air cleaner,
The floorboard and brake pedal was unbolted and hung to the engine guard out of the way.
These are the seals that cause the leak...
Make sure to clean the old cover gasket off the engine. It cannot be reused.
I also replaced the o-ring that attaches the front radiator hose to the cover.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 03, 2014, 22:55:10 PMjust been reading about this and it is covered under the clutch section because of the right cover, this pipe is mentioned there.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 03, 2014, 11:34:42 AMI'm still thinking about how to do this an easier way. Whether I do this an easier way or the way the manual says I'll make sure to post pictures and instructions. This sounds like a rather uncommon problem, so of course it would happen to my bike lol.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 03, 2014, 10:57:44 AMWell please keep us informed and pictures would be cool if I ever have to do this repair.....thanks.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 03, 2014, 09:59:27 AMYeah I looked at it this morning and realized that there wasn't anything holding the pipe in and came to the same conclusion. So unless I build a bracket to keep it solid, it won't work. That's too bad. I dislike the design of that piece as it sits. But it's cheaper to build so they'll sacrifice ease of repair to save $1 or less.
Posted by Troll
- May 03, 2014, 07:50:23 AMNope, It won't work. You have to replace the seals and keep the pipe solid. The downward pressure/inward pressure of the solid pipe is what keeps it tight. If you put something soft in there, it will pop out the first time the engine gets up to temp. I've seen people try to cheat this sort of thing on cars, and it's cheaper to do it right once...Drain your oil into a clean container and keep it...why throw it away? No you don't even want to think about reusing the gasket, since it seals the water pump inside the crank case....Now, if you just drain the oil, and take your time, you're back to the $50 I figured it would cost, plus you are learning about your bike. Look at it this way: it could be an H-D and you would be getting in a whole lot deeper for a lot more money!
Posted by greenbarn
- May 02, 2014, 23:04:29 PMIt might work, GD. The seals on the pipe might just be simple o-rings, too, which could be picked up at the local parts store.
Keep in mind, though- this pipe will be under pressure. Not that the silicone hose shouldn't hold - but if it DOES blow out, it will most surely scald the daylights out of your right leg.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 02, 2014, 22:53:16 PMYup. That's what I need to change. All it takes is replacing two seals. Shouldn't be that hard to do, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, and it would require a gasket for the right side cover. I might see what I can do to simplify it. I think if I cut out a section of the tube, I can use a 90° high temp silicone tube and then just use some hose clamps. Worst case scenario I have to do it the "correct way".
It's kind of pricey too. The elbow itself can be reused, but the right side cover gasket runs $30.26 as I'm guessing it can't be reused, I'd need to do an oil change which is 3 qts of amsoil, and then the seals which bike bandit shows at $3.44 each. I have a bunch of coolant, so that won't be an issue. but that would run over $70 all told. A silicone elbow runs about $15, and then just the seals. It would be much cheaper. Especially since I don't need an oil change yet.
So part of me is cheap, part of me is lazy, and the other (vast majority) part of me wants to make this a lot simpler. If I have to fix it, why not improve upon it and make it simpler to repair on the off chance it happens again. It failed once, it could fail again.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 02, 2014, 21:55:56 PMok so this is a lot more then just a quick change. Thanks mumbles.
Posted by mumbles
- May 02, 2014, 20:20:52 PMThe front header pipe has to be removed.
Also the floorboard, brake arm, and the clutch cable.
Then the right side frame rail has to be removed in order to get to the allen head bolts that hold the right side cover.
The job is really not hard at all, just time consuming.
Like stated before the coolant has to be changed and so does the engine oil.
I have pics of the process of when I had to change the mech seal that's behind the cover but can't get them till tomorrow.