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Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 03, 2014, 22:55:10 PMjust been reading about this and it is covered under the clutch section because of the right cover, this pipe is mentioned there.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 03, 2014, 11:34:42 AMI'm still thinking about how to do this an easier way. Whether I do this an easier way or the way the manual says I'll make sure to post pictures and instructions. This sounds like a rather uncommon problem, so of course it would happen to my bike lol.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 03, 2014, 10:57:44 AMWell please keep us informed and pictures would be cool if I ever have to do this repair.....thanks.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 03, 2014, 09:59:27 AMYeah I looked at it this morning and realized that there wasn't anything holding the pipe in and came to the same conclusion. So unless I build a bracket to keep it solid, it won't work. That's too bad. I dislike the design of that piece as it sits. But it's cheaper to build so they'll sacrifice ease of repair to save $1 or less.
Posted by Troll
- May 03, 2014, 07:50:23 AMNope, It won't work. You have to replace the seals and keep the pipe solid. The downward pressure/inward pressure of the solid pipe is what keeps it tight. If you put something soft in there, it will pop out the first time the engine gets up to temp. I've seen people try to cheat this sort of thing on cars, and it's cheaper to do it right once...Drain your oil into a clean container and keep it...why throw it away? No you don't even want to think about reusing the gasket, since it seals the water pump inside the crank case....Now, if you just drain the oil, and take your time, you're back to the $50 I figured it would cost, plus you are learning about your bike. Look at it this way: it could be an H-D and you would be getting in a whole lot deeper for a lot more money!
Posted by greenbarn
- May 02, 2014, 23:04:29 PMIt might work, GD. The seals on the pipe might just be simple o-rings, too, which could be picked up at the local parts store.
Keep in mind, though- this pipe will be under pressure. Not that the silicone hose shouldn't hold - but if it DOES blow out, it will most surely scald the daylights out of your right leg.
Posted by gdrudd13
- May 02, 2014, 22:53:16 PMYup. That's what I need to change. All it takes is replacing two seals. Shouldn't be that hard to do, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, and it would require a gasket for the right side cover. I might see what I can do to simplify it. I think if I cut out a section of the tube, I can use a 90° high temp silicone tube and then just use some hose clamps. Worst case scenario I have to do it the "correct way".
It's kind of pricey too. The elbow itself can be reused, but the right side cover gasket runs $30.26 as I'm guessing it can't be reused, I'd need to do an oil change which is 3 qts of amsoil, and then the seals which bike bandit shows at $3.44 each. I have a bunch of coolant, so that won't be an issue. but that would run over $70 all told. A silicone elbow runs about $15, and then just the seals. It would be much cheaper. Especially since I don't need an oil change yet.
So part of me is cheap, part of me is lazy, and the other (vast majority) part of me wants to make this a lot simpler. If I have to fix it, why not improve upon it and make it simpler to repair on the off chance it happens again. It failed once, it could fail again.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 02, 2014, 21:55:56 PMok so this is a lot more then just a quick change. Thanks mumbles.
Posted by mumbles
- May 02, 2014, 20:20:52 PMThe front header pipe has to be removed.
Also the floorboard, brake arm, and the clutch cable.
Then the right side frame rail has to be removed in order to get to the allen head bolts that hold the right side cover.
The job is really not hard at all, just time consuming.
Like stated before the coolant has to be changed and so does the engine oil.
I have pics of the process of when I had to change the mech seal that's behind the cover but can't get them till tomorrow.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 02, 2014, 20:03:04 PMok I can not find anything in any of the 3 manuals I have in regards to that actual pipe.
I have snip of the page it shows on and it is to the crankcase.
part numbers are as follows
39192-0111 pipe-water outlet $14.95
92093-1427 seals $3.78 x 2 one at each end.
now not sure how much you will have to remove to actually get in there to work but it might not be that bad, air cleaner cover, backing plate maybe, but should not be that bad really. If you are going to do this repair you might want to document it with pictures to help the rest of us out....thanks
Sorry Troll but that was a good picture that you borrowed....lol
Posted by Troll
- May 02, 2014, 20:00:20 PMPicture napper!
Posted by CDNRatMan
- May 02, 2014, 19:31:50 PMif it is the pipe in the picture I have in yellow then I will post answer from the manual, in about an hour.
Posted by Troll
- May 02, 2014, 18:56:38 PMEducated guess: that is the outlet pipe from the water pump. There are seals at each end. They are the same part number. Ratman has an 800 book, so he can probably tell you what you need to know about fixing this. Looks like $50 worth of parts and maybe a couple of hour's work... Looks like you have to take off the right side cover to get the pipe out and in...ok. Good time to change the coolant, probably needs it, anyway! Time for some intimate mechanical bike bonding!
Posted by Troll
- May 02, 2014, 18:33:53 PMEducated guess: that is the outlet pipe from the water pump. There are seals at each end. They are the same part number. Ratman has an 800 book, so he can probably tell you what you need to know about fixing this. Looks like $9 worth of parts and maybe an hour's work
Posted by Drift1
- May 02, 2014, 18:22:38 PMg13 is there any way of taking pictures of what your talking about , or is there to much in the way ?