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Posted by Beach Bum
- October 20, 2013, 10:38:41 AMQuote from: Troll on October 20, 2013, 09:56:44 AMThose 2 clamps on the fork tubes serve 2 purposes. ! and most important, they prevent the tube from moving up through the tree, and 2, they hold the lower slider covers in place. H_D uses 2 bolts per side to secure the cowbells to the lower clamp, Kaw. uses the internal clamps. Loosen the upper and lower clamp bolts a little and bounce the front end a couple of times..should fix the problem. You should do this any time on any front end to seat the tubes, anyway.
What I did was set the forks in the upper tree to .5mm below the rim of the clamp as described in the book. it's possible that the clamps moved on the tube itself because I jumped on the front end pretty good to settle the forks with the clamps loose and they did come up through the upper tree about a 1/4". If I settle the forks down on the lower covers they will then protrude too far out of the upper tree. I think I'll probably end up having to remove the forks and set the clamps to the factory spec and see where they end up.
Based on the info provided regarding sale prices I think I'll try to get $3500 for the bike and see where it goes.
Posted by greenbarn
- October 20, 2013, 10:13:54 AMHeed Troll's advice - if I remember when I had mine apart, if the lower tube covers can move up and down, then so can the fork tubes, so they need to be tight.
On prices- I can tell you I've been scouring for-sale's all over for just the right 1500 for my next bike. Something like 90-95% of what I see are between 5000 to 40,000 miles on them and I've seen asking prices between $2800 and $9000. The majority of these, say 75% of everything, are between 10-25,000 miles and most are listed (asking price) of $4-6000. It's really hard to put an "average" on something like this b/c they all have so many different features and accessories. If you're competing with the overall market, though, I've seen a lot of bikes with around 15-20,000 miles, windshield, bags, lightbar, stock seat (single or 2-up) (give or take a couple add-ons) for around $5-6000. I've seen some better deals and some poorer.
Posted by Troll
- October 20, 2013, 09:56:44 AMThose 2 clamps on the fork tubes serve 2 purposes. ! and most important, they prevent the tube from moving up through the tree, and 2, they hold the lower slider covers in place. H_D uses 2 bolts per side to secure the cowbells to the lower clamp, Kaw. uses the internal clamps. Loosen the upper and lower clamp bolts a little and bounce the front end a couple of times..should fix the problem. You should do this any time on any front end to seat the tubes, anyway.
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 20, 2013, 08:25:23 AMBusy afternoon Friday. Got my parts in the mail and went ahead and installed them. The rotor I took off was completely screwed. After removing it and laying it on the floor, I noticed it was convex as mounted on the rim. It had warped outwards from the hub at least 1/8th of an inch. I can see why the stock rotor is solid. That's a lot of weight behind a single front rotor. Next I installed the steering head bearings. Simple enough but the seals that came with the All Balls kit weren't right so I had to reuse the old ones. No big deal. Got it all put back together and noticed that the the lower fork tube covers are now loose. So, either have to R&R the forks again or live with it. I only read the service manual after the fact and noticed that the clamps are supposed to measure 226.6mm from the top of the fork tube. Kind of stupid. I've only gone for a few short rides and it's night and day. I'm still waiting for the baffle to arrive and want to go over the entire bike before putting any serious miles on it. Seems to be running a bit rich and I don't know if the PO adjusted the TPS after doing the intake and exhaust mods. Maybe I just haven't got it hot enough.
Now the conundrum.... After telling a buddy about the bike he told me he was selling his Honda ST1300. I have always had an affinity for these bikes and have always ridden sport bikes in general. Another friend saw the Drifter and questioned my sanity as it's the opposite of any bike he's ever seen me ride. I'm concerned that if I try to sell the drifter to buy the Honda, that the mileage will be a serious impedance. It's a good looking bike and runs well, but I have no idea what the market is like for these things. It was an impulsive purchase and I'm hoping I don't get burned if and when I do decide to sell. I installed the 2 up seat and bag and although it's a bit imposing, the GF is happy and the amount of cargo space is phenomenal. Will post pics later. Can anyone offer some advice as to a realistic selling price should I decide to go for the ST? I'm just not sure the shoe fits at this point.
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 16, 2013, 09:46:09 AMI found this 4" adjustable baffle and ordered it this morning. Looks interesting... I'll post a review once I've had the chance to install it and tune it a bit. I can always add baffling to the pipe if necessary. The dimensions fit my can perfectly and at $25 shipped 2 day it seems like a pretty good deal for an adjustable stainless baffle. http://www.genkituning.com/Universal-Adjustable-Sound-Silencer-p/1-mus-40950-adj.htm
Posted by testpilot
- October 15, 2013, 20:07:07 PMVery nice looking bike. Once you get it the way you want it, you'll love it. These Quiet-Riot Baffles look interesting at JP Cycles. Or, you could revert to the stock exhaust. I'm really happy with mine. Here's a Craigslist posting. The guy wants to sell everything listed in one pop. It's been listed for awhile and you might be able to talk him into selling the exhaust only.
Posted by Troll
- October 15, 2013, 16:06:19 PMWelders...whether gas or electric, are magic....We old guys have lots of tricks....
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 15, 2013, 14:48:03 PMSo I just finished pulling the races out of the neck and I have to say.... Piece of piss. The bottom one was a bit awkward to weld on and I was a bit nervous that I'd end up welding the race to the neck but I got a bead (ugly!!!) around it and it just fell out. The top race was loose after shooting only half of it. Took longer to get the welder running and my mask on than it took to finish the job.
Not my best work in a tight spot but it was effective. Still have to cut the bearing off the stem, buy another 36mm socket to make the tool to torque the nut down, and reinstall all the stuff but without that tip Troll, I'd still be trying to knock out the races. Mucho gracias Amigo!!!
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 14, 2013, 20:53:29 PMI'll be doing this tomorrow or Wednesday. I'll try to take some pics and post them when I'm done. As far as the grease zerk goes, again, the stem was full of grease (coming out the bottom), but the bearings themselves were dry. I guess I'm just old school and expect to have to repack them occasionally like wheel bearings. I will say this, if you're serious about working on anything, get yourself a decent mig welder. I'll figure out something with the exhaust.
Posted by greenbarn
- October 14, 2013, 20:38:06 PMQuote from: Troll on October 14, 2013, 20:33:19 PMWhen you weld the bead on the race, and it cools off, it will shrink the material it's welded to, not a lot, but enough to loosen it. Works good...it's like when you have a bolt broken off with almost enough to grab with a vice grip, but you put a nut over the stub, and weld down into it. When it cools, the bolt will back right out about 99% of the time...When you work on cars in the rust belt for 40+ years, you learn lots of tricks with heat...
Makes sense. We use the nut trick you mentioned on exhaust manifold bolts that are broken off in cylinder heads all the time. I knew it worked, but hadn't considered the "shrinking" factor. That makes sense, though.
Thanks for sharing that one.
Posted by Troll
- October 14, 2013, 20:33:19 PMWhen you weld the bead on the race, and it cools off, it will shrink the material it's welded to, not a lot, but enough to loosen it. Works good...it's like when you have a bolt broken off with almost enough to grab with a vice grip, but you put a nut over the stub, and weld down into it. When it cools, the bolt will back right out about 99% of the time...When you work on cars in the rust belt for 40+ years, you learn lots of tricks with heat...
Posted by greenbarn
- October 14, 2013, 20:28:38 PMQuote from: Troll on October 12, 2013, 19:36:27 PMHey Troll, can you 'splain this to me? I've found lots of ways to get bearing races out, including cutting out with a torch, but honestly I've never heard this trick before. That is really a good trick to know. I'm familiar with heating and/or cooling things to make them tight or loose, but how does this work? I would think when you weld it, it would heat and expand, then when it cools it would shrink, but how does it shrink smaller than original?...The big problem will be getting the old races out of the tapered neck. Do you have access to a mig welder? Welding a bead around the center of each race, and when it cools, they almost fall out.
Conversely, then, I assume if you were to weld a bead on an INNER race stuck on a shaft, then when it cools it would be even smaller (tighter)? I guess these are usually easy enough to burn off with the torch anyways.
Posted by CDNRatMan
- October 14, 2013, 20:03:55 PMBeach Bum, my roadhouse exhaust was bolted hard to the frame, I just used rubber grommets to isolate them and it helped big time.
Posted by Troll
- October 14, 2013, 19:04:09 PMYa know...just having the grease fitting in doesn't mean he greased it. I pump mine until it comes out on the top and the bottom and then clean it up. If it comes out, the only way it can get out is by going through the bearing.
Posted by Beach Bum
- October 14, 2013, 18:55:48 PMThere's already a grease zerk in the neck. Don't see how the grease got into the bearings though as the stem wass full but the bearings were dry. Thinking you have to have the lock engaged or at least the bars in the opposite direction so the lock hole doesn't line up. I live 8 blocks off the ocean so I am intimate with waterproof grease. We have to use it in just about everything to prevent rust.
We'll see how she rides once I get things put back together and take it from there. Between the brakes and the steering being stuck in the straight position, I'm not exactly thrilled with the experience thus far. Still looking for a baffle as I just don't dig the noise anymore. If the can turns out to be a 4" diameter I think I can use a baffle out of a rice burner can which one can buy for around $20. Or, I can fabricate one. I really don't want to put more work into the bike than it's worth and the market for these is pretty soft around here. Most people don't like spending too much dough on bikes with high mileage, regardless of their reputation. I still haven't checked to see if all the plugs are firing correctly. Couldn't ride it long enough to do a plug chop. I have heat in both jugs but the vibration just doesn't seem right. I'm also going to look at fabricating a rubber mount for the exhaust.