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Posted by greenbarn
- October 13, 2013, 18:56:15 PMThat would be a quart in 3200 miles, which seems like quite a bit. I don't remember seeing you write anything about the pollution/breather stuff. I'm assuming is has something somewhat similar to the 800- which has a crankcase breather line, goes to the air box, among a bunch of other convoluted hoses etc., and there is a "milk bottle", or reservoir/ catch bottle for overage. I replaced all of that w/ a crank breather. I think Troll mentioned it earlier, to check to see if it's all full/ plugged/ etc.
Posted by Petemoss
- October 13, 2013, 17:31:30 PMQuote from: testpilot on October 07, 2013, 07:03:36 AMI didn't oil the filter. The filter was oiled, or was supposed to be oiled, properly out of the box. There was actually very little oil there and none in the throttle box and when I checked it at a later date, there was none at all.Let's go back to the beginning where you found red oil in the air cleaner. It sounds like you've over oiled your K&N which creates a restriction.
Update after roughly 800 miles. I added roughly 8oz to bring the level where it is supposed to be inside the eyehole.
Posted by testpilot
- October 07, 2013, 07:03:36 AMLet's go back to the beginning where you found red oil in the air cleaner. It sounds like you've over oiled your K&N which creates a restriction. That can cause a buildup of vacuum inside the air cleaner & throttle body. Too much vacuum in the air intake system can cause it to suck oil through the crankcase ventilation system. Try putting the factory air filter back in. Clean or replace the spark plugs and fix that oil screen thing.
Posted by Troll
- October 06, 2013, 20:16:17 PMAnything is possible, but I'm thinking more like through the crankcase breather system. First thing I would do is see just how much you are actually using, and then that will give you a clue as to where to begin looking. Rings mean a lot of oil pretty quickly, guides mean a smaller amount over a longer period of time, and more consumption if you ride where you have to do a lot of slowing, thus creating a higher vacuum load on the intake. Exhaust guides would be pretty constant no matter what kind of riding you do...
Posted by Petemoss
- October 06, 2013, 20:04:01 PMQuote from: Troll on October 06, 2013, 19:26:15 PMThrough the exhaust guides?I'm still thinking you have a leak somewhere...
Posted by Troll
- October 06, 2013, 19:26:15 PMOK... there are 3 rings on a normal piston. usually 2 compression rings, that seal in the fire, and multi piece oil ring that scrapes the oil back down into the crankcase. The oil ring has more in common with a windshield wiper blade than anything else. As far as documenting the oil consumption, what i mean is to check oil use over miles ridden. If you do lots of round town riding or lots of highway....Valve guides are always a possible problem, although he design seems to be pretty solid, not like a Harley. On deceleration, vacuum is high in the intake manifold, because the throttle is closed. If the intake guides and seals are bad, then the oil will get sucked into the engine then. If the exhaust guides are bad, then oil will constantly leak into the exhaust stream and be burned in the pipes. No oil is actually burned by the fire in the engine...Ring leakage causes the oil to be burned under load, but your compression readings don't indicate there is a problem with the compression seal. Checking the oil regularly and noting the mileage will give you a better picture of when and ho much oil you are really going through. I'm still thinking you have a leak somewhere...
Posted by Petemoss
- October 06, 2013, 18:37:44 PM"That looks like it's running a little rich, but not burning oil."
This is what I thought at first too. But, I didn't understand why. The bike comes lean from the factory and I have aftermarket roadhouse exhaust and a k&n air filter. I understand this should make the bike run leaner not richer. So, I have to believe the black soot/smoke from the exhaust is burning oil.
"Sometimes the additive package in some oils promotes oil loss during the first oil change. Pennzoil is pretty notorious for this problem until the additives build up in the system (or the sludge, your choice)"
I have now changed the oil twice. I have no clue what oil the PO used but I have used Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle oil.
"since you didn't get a huge increase in pressure from dry to wet, I wouldn't suspect a compression ring problem. The oil rings, however, cannot be tested by compression, nor cylinder leak down. Think of them more like squeegee that is supposed to push the oil back down the cylinder walls, not seal in power.."
What's a compression ring? A piston ring? If it's not a piston ring what could cause oil consumption? Valve seal?
"I still think you need to monitor the oil usage closely and document the issue."
Please don't think I'm being a smart a** but what's to document besides oil blowing out of the tailpipe on startup and acceleration? I'm a guitar playing former chef who drives truck for a living and I understand a engine about as much as I understand Latin. 
Posted by Troll
- October 06, 2013, 17:42:36 PMUsually, oil in the combustion chamber leaves a lot more garbage than that. I've actually seen the gap bridged and the plug shorted by oil deposits. That looks like it's running a little rich, but not burning oil. Sometimes the additive package in some oils promotes oil loss during the first oil change. Pennzoil is pretty notorious for this problem until the additives build up in the system (or the sludge, your choice). Generally, I do a cold and a warm compression test, as well as a wet one. since you didn't get a huge increase in pressure from dry to wet, I wouldn't suspect a compression ring problem. The oil rings, however, cannot be tested by compression, nor cylinder leak down. Think of them more like squeegee that is supposed to push the oil back down the cylinder walls, not seal in power...I still think you need to monitor the oil usage closely and document the issue. My bike now has over 81,000 on it and has no oil consumption, but I still check it at least once a week.
Posted by Petemoss
- October 06, 2013, 17:05:41 PM
The plugs.
Can a compression test be done incorrectly?
Posted by Troll
- October 06, 2013, 16:12:59 PMSounds like the automatic compression release isn't working...manual says 50-85 psi...assuming the compression release is operating correctly. I really don't think that the compression pressures you have point to a problem with oil consumption. What do the plugs look like? Are there deposits on the electrodes? What color are the insulators...
Posted by Petemoss
- October 06, 2013, 15:56:00 PMI did a compression test today and this is the psi.
Front cylinder 149 dry, 165 wet
Rear cylinder 125 dry, 140 wet
Posted by DC
- September 17, 2013, 19:20:48 PMWhat would happen if you overfilled it?
Posted by Troll
- September 17, 2013, 18:43:21 PM41.5 is pretty good, I should think. Mine was getting around 37-40 before I started tinkering with it. Did you ever get the oil screen out ? No point in trying to dyno tune an engine without the box, since that's where they are going to be fiddling with the fuel curve....Keep an eye on the oil usage, maybe the additive package in the amzoil didn't get alone with what was in there before...It's just me, but I check my oil at least once a week. I use a mechanic's mirror so I can sit on the bike and hold it straight and look at the eye...sure wish it had a dip stick.
Posted by Petemoss
- September 17, 2013, 18:14:02 PMQuote from: Troll on September 17, 2013, 17:59:58 PM19k on the clock.How many miles on this engine? Something doesn't sound right. Have you been using the amzoil right along, or is this something new? I have seen car engines with lots of miles suddenly turn all the ring end gaps so they line up...for no apparent reason. Ring seal doesn't seem to be a problem with these engines. You are running rich, what happened to your fuel mileage? Is it sudden? Vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor and a leaking fuel pressure regulator, or even a stuck open injector could do this
Amsoil from 14k or my first oil change on the bike. I think I remember soot on the fender befor I changed the oil after I bought it.
Fuel mileage is 41.5 mpg on average.
I called three techs today and they all told me I needed a power commander in order for them to dyno tune the bike. I thought aftermarket pipes and a aftermarket air filter would cause the bike to run lean? Would hotter plugs fix or put a band aid over the problem? I mean just to see If I need it dyno'd?
Posted by Troll
- September 17, 2013, 17:59:58 PMHow many miles on this engine? Something doesn't sound right. Have you been using the amzoil right along, or is this something new? I have seen car engines with lots of miles suddenly turn all the ring end gaps so they line up...for no apparent reason. Ring seal doesn't seem to be a problem with these engines. You are running rich, what happened to your fuel mileage? Is it sudden? Vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor and a leaking fuel pressure regulator, or even a stuck open injector could do this