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I must be doing something wrong, the BLK/YEL wire, when I trace it leads to the Neg side of the battery. That should be ground? Looking at the colors of the wires on the speedo head; I do not even see BLK/WHT? My 99 manual does not list any BLK/WHT wires in the diagram? I see 6 wires on the Speedo head, Black & Yellow, Light Blue, Red & Black, Brown & Black, Red & Blue, and White & Yellow. Am I lost here?
According to the color coded wiring diagram, the black/white wire goes to ground, the black/yellow wire is power feed.
Oil light doe's go out after starting. You're correct Gritz01, "If the meter is left upside down or sideways for any length of time, it will malfunction". It was stored face up all winter, just got buggy the other day.Dave
Quote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 19:24:11 PMIsn't the BLK/YEL is the ground? Have you tested the Distance sensor? if bad it your need to replace the entire head but it sure seems that is where the problem is. You said that your had the bike apart. There is a Caution in the Shop Manual that Speedo head must be stored face up, "stored upside down or sideways for any length of time it will malfunction"Oil light BETTER go off when the engine starts.....Sounds like some kind of short in the meter's P.C. board. The black/white wire is supposed to be the ground....
Oil light BETTER go off when the engine starts.....Sounds like some kind of short in the meter's P.C. board. The black/white wire is supposed to be the ground....
Ok, I seen that one. I reconnected the speedo and taped off the Blk/Yel so I can see how fast I'm going anyway. Odd thing too is the oil light stays on prior to start then goes off when started along with no dash Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators & the fuel gauge saying it's full with the low fuel light on. Wonder if I should buy the new speedo gauge and see what works after that?
Dave
Plugs into the clutch m/cyl. If it's disconnected, the bike won't crank...
On the bars or at the master?
Quote from: Elmo Hayride on July 30, 2013, 13:05:55 PMThere is a SWITCH there at the clutch which will prevent the bike from starting if not connected properly... that is what he's talking about.@ draconarmy - There is no cable for the clutch on this one, just hydraulic.
@ griz01 - I've been all over the wiring with the ohm meter and visual. The bike was in pieces just weeks ago from an overhaul, paint, power coat, etc...I made real sure to go over the harness before I put it back on the bike. Sure, with the age (1999) anything can happen. I just think that the bike sat so long (has ~10,000 mi.) that things like this will occur for a period of time until it gets to run more often than sit.
@ draconarmy - There is no cable for the clutch on this one, just hydraulic.
@ DC - Breakers would be nice but like Troll said, the wires would cook every time the breaker would blow and I for one wouldn't be so mindful as to worry about the wire if all I had to do was push a button. Adding fuses however, I have to be diligent in my troubleshooting because the box is running low, lol.
Dave
Quote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 10:54:47 AMHmmm. . . I wonder why. Wouldn't that be a safety issue, in risking burning up the electrical system?Automotive breakers are self resetting.
Automotive breakers are self resetting.
Quote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 07:46:30 AMWhy is a breaker resetting itself? Shouldn't it have to be manually reset?Circuit breakers sound like a good idea, but even H-D abandoned them in favor of fuses. The breaker takes too long to trip, will reset itself and start the wiring overload all over again. Heat is the problem, and breakers never let the wiring cool down between cycles enough to prevent eventual damage. I have a short circuit tester that uses a rapid reset breaker that sends pulses down the wiring. You use an inductive meter to follow the harness to the point the meter stops reading. Theoretically, that's where the short is.....
Yes a question, You have run an Ohm meter on all the wires in to connector to be sure it is not just a wire with the insulation worn off? 15 years is a lot of vibration, wire touching could have abraded.
Circuit breakers sound like a good idea, but even H-D abandoned them in favor of fuses. The breaker takes too long to trip, will reset itself and start the wiring overload all over again. Heat is the problem, and breakers never let the wiring cool down between cycles enough to prevent eventual damage. I have a short circuit tester that uses a rapid reset breaker that sends pulses down the wiring. You use an inductive meter to follow the harness to the point the meter stops reading. Theoretically, that's where the short is.....
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