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@ griz01 - I've been all over the wiring with the ohm meter and visual. The bike was in pieces just weeks ago from an overhaul, paint, power coat, etc...I made real sure to go over the harness before I put it back on the bike. Sure, with the age (1999) anything can happen. I just think that the bike sat so long (has ~10,000 mi.) that things like this will occur for a period of time until it gets to run more often than sit.
@ draconarmy - There is no cable for the clutch on this one, just hydraulic.
@ DC - Breakers would be nice but like Troll said, the wires would cook every time the breaker would blow and I for one wouldn't be so mindful as to worry about the wire if all I had to do was push a button. Adding fuses however, I have to be diligent in my troubleshooting because the box is running low, lol.
Dave
Quote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 10:54:47 AMHmmm. . . I wonder why. Wouldn't that be a safety issue, in risking burning up the electrical system?Automotive breakers are self resetting.
Automotive breakers are self resetting.
Quote from: Troll on July 30, 2013, 07:46:30 AMWhy is a breaker resetting itself? Shouldn't it have to be manually reset?Circuit breakers sound like a good idea, but even H-D abandoned them in favor of fuses. The breaker takes too long to trip, will reset itself and start the wiring overload all over again. Heat is the problem, and breakers never let the wiring cool down between cycles enough to prevent eventual damage. I have a short circuit tester that uses a rapid reset breaker that sends pulses down the wiring. You use an inductive meter to follow the harness to the point the meter stops reading. Theoretically, that's where the short is.....
Yes a question, You have run an Ohm meter on all the wires in to connector to be sure it is not just a wire with the insulation worn off? 15 years is a lot of vibration, wire touching could have abraded.
Circuit breakers sound like a good idea, but even H-D abandoned them in favor of fuses. The breaker takes too long to trip, will reset itself and start the wiring overload all over again. Heat is the problem, and breakers never let the wiring cool down between cycles enough to prevent eventual damage. I have a short circuit tester that uses a rapid reset breaker that sends pulses down the wiring. You use an inductive meter to follow the harness to the point the meter stops reading. Theoretically, that's where the short is.....
It's times like these that it would be great to have circuit breakers instead of fuses.
The first time it blew Tail and Ignition. Now it will just blow Ig.
Dave
Yeah, the black/yellow is the B+ feed to the whole meter head. The blue wire is signal feed to the t/s controller. You said it blew a fuse...which one?
It still blows the fuse. The actual wire injecting the B+ is the Blk/Yel (other wire for distance sensor). From all I see thats supposed to be gound.
If I leave the Lt. Blu and Blk/Yel off I can connect the speedo but still no Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators.
Dave
What happens if you disconnect the light blue wire running from the reed switch and reconnect the speedo cable?
Troll, I'll scan and post one.
Dave
Sure wish I had a '99 circuit diagram...
was talking to my father in-law (gwychief) and he says he had a similar issue. it ended up being in the clutch. he says that the cable comes loose at the lever and this causes a safety to trip. he just had to push the cable back into seat and tighten it down.
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