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Yes a question, You have run an Ohm meter on all the wires in to connector to be sure it is not just a wire with the insulation worn off? 15 years is a lot of vibration, wire touching could have abraded.
Circuit breakers sound like a good idea, but even H-D abandoned them in favor of fuses. The breaker takes too long to trip, will reset itself and start the wiring overload all over again. Heat is the problem, and breakers never let the wiring cool down between cycles enough to prevent eventual damage. I have a short circuit tester that uses a rapid reset breaker that sends pulses down the wiring. You use an inductive meter to follow the harness to the point the meter stops reading. Theoretically, that's where the short is.....
It's times like these that it would be great to have circuit breakers instead of fuses.
The first time it blew Tail and Ignition. Now it will just blow Ig.
Dave
Yeah, the black/yellow is the B+ feed to the whole meter head. The blue wire is signal feed to the t/s controller. You said it blew a fuse...which one?
It still blows the fuse. The actual wire injecting the B+ is the Blk/Yel (other wire for distance sensor). From all I see thats supposed to be gound.
If I leave the Lt. Blu and Blk/Yel off I can connect the speedo but still no Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators.
Dave
What happens if you disconnect the light blue wire running from the reed switch and reconnect the speedo cable?
Troll, I'll scan and post one.
Dave
Sure wish I had a '99 circuit diagram...
was talking to my father in-law (gwychief) and he says he had a similar issue. it ended up being in the clutch. he says that the cable comes loose at the lever and this causes a safety to trip. he just had to push the cable back into seat and tighten it down.
Thanks Troll.
I put the speedo back on and taped off the speedo cable connector and left the cable off. Starts and runs fine but no Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators working and also the fuel gague doesn't work.
Dave
Doesn't look like you will be able to take it apart. Getting a new reed switch might be impossible. The way these things work is actually pretty simple. The mechanical speedo has a part called a drag cup. It's basically a spinning pair of magnets driven by the cable. This works the needle against a hair spring. The reed switch is a glass capsule located near the drag cup. It's got a pair of contacts inside that are normally open. One of the contacts is magnetic, and as the cup turns, it pulls the magnetic reed into contact with the standing contact for an instant. This sends a square wave pulse to the turn signal electronic controller. After enough of these pulses, the turn signals shut off. My suspicion is that if you were to disconnect one of the wires to the reed switch, the no start situation would be corrected, but the turn signals would no longer cancel. You could do this while hunting for a replacement speedo head. Harley had these, and so did a lot of Japanese cars with mechanical speedos...they go bad in various ways. Sounds like somehow yours shorted to the drag cup.
It's the point labeled Lb on the back of the speedo thats shorted...goes to the speedo distance sensor.
Dave
As I am not one to perform these types of surgery without first the consult of people who eagerly engage in dissecting problematic devices here I give you proof of how not easily this will go back together for your review. I may just have to mail this one to Troll for his enjoyment.
Dave
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