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Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 21:44:26 PMThe first time it blew Tail and Ignition. Now it will just blow Ig.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 29, 2013, 21:23:51 PMYeah, the black/yellow is the B+ feed to the whole meter head. The blue wire is signal feed to the t/s controller. You said it blew a fuse...which one?
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 21:03:51 PMIt still blows the fuse. The actual wire injecting the B+ is the Blk/Yel (other wire for distance sensor). From all I see thats supposed to be gound.
If I leave the Lt. Blu and Blk/Yel off I can connect the speedo but still no Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 29, 2013, 20:55:57 PMWhat happens if you disconnect the light blue wire running from the reed switch and reconnect the speedo cable?
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 20:30:20 PMHere you go.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 20:22:50 PMTroll, I'll scan and post one.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 29, 2013, 20:13:39 PMSure wish I had a '99 circuit diagram...
Posted by draconarmy
- July 29, 2013, 20:05:23 PMwas talking to my father in-law (gwychief) and he says he had a similar issue. it ended up being in the clutch. he says that the cable comes loose at the lever and this causes a safety to trip. he just had to push the cable back into seat and tighten it down.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 19:57:13 PMThanks Troll.
I put the speedo back on and taped off the speedo cable connector and left the cable off. Starts and runs fine but no Hi/Lo, Neutral, or Signals indicators working and also the fuel gague doesn't work.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 29, 2013, 19:44:17 PMDoesn't look like you will be able to take it apart. Getting a new reed switch might be impossible. The way these things work is actually pretty simple. The mechanical speedo has a part called a drag cup. It's basically a spinning pair of magnets driven by the cable. This works the needle against a hair spring. The reed switch is a glass capsule located near the drag cup. It's got a pair of contacts inside that are normally open. One of the contacts is magnetic, and as the cup turns, it pulls the magnetic reed into contact with the standing contact for an instant. This sends a square wave pulse to the turn signal electronic controller. After enough of these pulses, the turn signals shut off. My suspicion is that if you were to disconnect one of the wires to the reed switch, the no start situation would be corrected, but the turn signals would no longer cancel. You could do this while hunting for a replacement speedo head. Harley had these, and so did a lot of Japanese cars with mechanical speedos...they go bad in various ways. Sounds like somehow yours shorted to the drag cup.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 16:28:02 PMIt's the point labeled Lb on the back of the speedo thats shorted...goes to the speedo distance sensor.
Dave
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 29, 2013, 15:06:22 PMAs I am not one to perform these types of surgery without first the consult of people who eagerly engage in dissecting problematic devices here I give you proof of how not easily this will go back together for your review. I may just have to mail this one to Troll for his enjoyment.
Dave
Posted by griz01
- July 28, 2013, 20:21:55 PMLike Troll said, The 99 service manual I have says the Speedo is serviced as a unit. It should not be taken apart for servicing so it is probably going to be a real project to get it apart and back together!
Posted by Troll
- July 28, 2013, 19:58:08 PMSure wish I could see it. With mechanical speedos, the actual meter is usually crimped shut to prevent tampering with the odometer. The electronic ones come apart pretty easily, but there non volatile ram chip is pretty secure. There seems to be a short to the case that is causing the problem.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 28, 2013, 19:45:57 PMI have it on my desk right now. Got most of the wires and bulbs pulled, just can't seem to figure where it splits. The frt metel bezel is bent aroung the top and bottom edges.