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Last Edit: July 29, 2013, 20:01:26 PM by Elmo Hayride
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Topic summary

Posted by Troll
 - July 29, 2013, 19:44:17 PM

Doesn't look like you will be able to take it apart. Getting a new reed switch might be impossible. The way these things work is actually pretty simple. The mechanical speedo has a part called a drag cup. It's basically a spinning pair of magnets driven by the cable. This works the needle against a hair spring. The reed switch is a glass capsule located near the drag cup. It's got a pair of contacts inside that are normally open. One of the contacts is magnetic, and as the cup turns, it pulls the magnetic reed into contact with the standing contact for an instant. This sends a square wave pulse to the turn signal electronic controller. After enough of these pulses, the turn signals shut off. My suspicion is that if you were to disconnect one of the wires to the reed switch, the no start situation would be corrected, but the turn signals would no longer cancel. You could do this while hunting for a replacement speedo head. Harley had these, and so did a lot of Japanese cars with mechanical speedos...they go bad in various ways. Sounds like somehow yours shorted to the drag cup.

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 29, 2013, 16:28:02 PM

It's the point labeled Lb on the back of the speedo thats shorted...goes to the speedo distance sensor.
Dave

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 29, 2013, 15:06:22 PM

As I am not one to perform these types of surgery without first the consult of people who eagerly engage in dissecting problematic devices here I give you proof of how not easily this will go back together for your review. I may just have to mail this one to Troll for his enjoyment.
Dave

Posted by griz01
 - July 28, 2013, 20:21:55 PM

Like Troll said, The 99 service manual I have says the Speedo is serviced as a unit. It should not be taken apart for servicing so it is probably going to be a real project to get it apart and back together!

Posted by Troll
 - July 28, 2013, 19:58:08 PM

Sure wish I could see it. With mechanical speedos, the actual meter is usually crimped shut to prevent tampering with the odometer. The electronic ones come apart pretty easily, but there non volatile ram chip is pretty secure. There seems to be a short to the case that is causing the problem.

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 28, 2013, 19:45:57 PM

I have it on my desk right now. Got most of the wires and bulbs pulled, just can't seem to figure where it splits. The frt metel bezel is bent aroung the top and bottom edges.

Posted by Troll
 - July 28, 2013, 19:38:57 PM

Sounds like it's time to take the meter assy. apart

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 28, 2013, 19:32:30 PM

I recall that when everything was plugged in minus the speedo cable, everything worked fine. Hi/Lo beams, dash lts, signals, and pretty sure neutral indicator.

Posted by Troll
 - July 28, 2013, 19:24:41 PM

So you have 3 lights, a fuel gauge, the efi, oil and temp lights...and the meter illumination...What happens if you leave the speedo cable disconnected?

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 28, 2013, 19:18:07 PM

It's a 1999.

Posted by Troll
 - July 28, 2013, 19:07:42 PM

What year is it...I have a R service manual.. I'll post a meter wiring diagram if it's the correct year

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 28, 2013, 19:04:51 PM

Sorry John,
I mean meter as in speedometer assy. When the 3 plugs are connected there is +12V from the speedo connection on the back of the speedometer. If connected to the cable a dead short occurs to ground (cable side).

Posted by John Hopkins
 - July 28, 2013, 17:46:42 PM
Quote from: Elmo Hayride on July 28, 2013, 15:35:27 PM

Well after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.

Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave

I'm not quite sure what you mean..but..

Meter to dc volts.

connect across the battery..read voltage..write it down..

Leave the red lead on the + battery terminal move the black lead to the frame..do you have the same voltage..If not run a jumper lead from the negative battery terminal to the frame or tighten the battery connections..

John.

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 28, 2013, 15:35:27 PM

Well after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.

Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave

Posted by Elmo Hayride
 - July 26, 2013, 20:21:37 PM

Tell Mom Thanks...I just may do it...

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