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As I am not one to perform these types of surgery without first the consult of people who eagerly engage in dissecting problematic devices here I give you proof of how not easily this will go back together for your review. I may just have to mail this one to Troll for his enjoyment.
Dave
Like Troll said, The 99 service manual I have says the Speedo is serviced as a unit. It should not be taken apart for servicing so it is probably going to be a real project to get it apart and back together!
Sure wish I could see it. With mechanical speedos, the actual meter is usually crimped shut to prevent tampering with the odometer. The electronic ones come apart pretty easily, but there non volatile ram chip is pretty secure. There seems to be a short to the case that is causing the problem.
I have it on my desk right now. Got most of the wires and bulbs pulled, just can't seem to figure where it splits. The frt metel bezel is bent aroung the top and bottom edges.
Sounds like it's time to take the meter assy. apart
I recall that when everything was plugged in minus the speedo cable, everything worked fine. Hi/Lo beams, dash lts, signals, and pretty sure neutral indicator.
So you have 3 lights, a fuel gauge, the efi, oil and temp lights...and the meter illumination...What happens if you leave the speedo cable disconnected?
What year is it...I have a R service manual.. I'll post a meter wiring diagram if it's the correct year
Sorry John,
I mean meter as in speedometer assy. When the 3 plugs are connected there is +12V from the speedo connection on the back of the speedometer. If connected to the cable a dead short occurs to ground (cable side).
Quote from: Elmo Hayride on July 28, 2013, 15:35:27 PMI'm not quite sure what you mean..but..Well after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.
Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave
Meter to dc volts.
connect across the battery..read voltage..write it down..
Leave the red lead on the + battery terminal move the black lead to the frame..do you have the same voltage..If not run a jumper lead from the negative battery terminal to the frame or tighten the battery connections..
John.
Well after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.
Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave
Tell Mom Thanks...I just may do it...
My Mom: "Ok, let me think... when the car won't start your supposed to... take off your shoe and hit the battery with it". Worked every time. 
Ok, I'll check it. Also, I ordered an ignition switch just in case. If not today, I'm sure I'll need it at some point.
Dave
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