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Posted by Troll
- July 28, 2013, 19:38:57 PMSounds like it's time to take the meter assy. apart
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 28, 2013, 19:32:30 PMI recall that when everything was plugged in minus the speedo cable, everything worked fine. Hi/Lo beams, dash lts, signals, and pretty sure neutral indicator.
Posted by Troll
- July 28, 2013, 19:24:41 PMSo you have 3 lights, a fuel gauge, the efi, oil and temp lights...and the meter illumination...What happens if you leave the speedo cable disconnected?
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 28, 2013, 19:18:07 PMIt's a 1999.
Posted by Troll
- July 28, 2013, 19:07:42 PMWhat year is it...I have a R service manual.. I'll post a meter wiring diagram if it's the correct year
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 28, 2013, 19:04:51 PMSorry John,
I mean meter as in speedometer assy. When the 3 plugs are connected there is +12V from the speedo connection on the back of the speedometer. If connected to the cable a dead short occurs to ground (cable side).
Posted by John Hopkins
- July 28, 2013, 17:46:42 PMQuote from: Elmo Hayride on July 28, 2013, 15:35:27 PMI'm not quite sure what you mean..but..Well after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.
Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave
Meter to dc volts.
connect across the battery..read voltage..write it down..
Leave the red lead on the + battery terminal move the black lead to the frame..do you have the same voltage..If not run a jumper lead from the negative battery terminal to the frame or tighten the battery connections..
John.
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 28, 2013, 15:35:27 PMWell after pulling and inspecting the fuse panel I decided to put the bike back together and try again from the beginning. All the power was fine until I put on the meter. Wouldn't you know, theres +12V coming out the back of the speedometer cable connections. At least the bike runs and I'll have some spare (future) parts coming soon.
Has anyone heard of this or have any ideas?
Dave
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 26, 2013, 20:21:37 PMTell Mom Thanks...I just may do it...
Posted by dakuhosu
- July 26, 2013, 19:34:32 PMMy Mom: "Ok, let me think... when the car won't start your supposed to... take off your shoe and hit the battery with it". Worked every time. 
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 26, 2013, 18:24:43 PMOk, I'll check it. Also, I ordered an ignition switch just in case. If not today, I'm sure I'll need it at some point.
Dave
Posted by Troll
- July 26, 2013, 17:59:57 PMThere have been postings here over the years of people with running or no run problems that have been traced to the P.C. If it won't turn over, that might be something else...The clutch switch connector seems to catch people now and then...The P.C. shouldn't have any effect on that....but now I'm thinking about the side stand interlock switch......
Posted by Elmo Hayride
- July 26, 2013, 17:09:49 PMTroll - How so?
John - I'll test that out in the AM and see whats happening.
Thx,
Dave
Posted by John Hopkins
- July 26, 2013, 16:57:01 PMOk so you have voltage to all the fuses That means the white and red leads at the ignition switch are connecting that just leaves the supply to the ICU to check..If everything is as you say you should be able to link the starter relay contacts to turn the engine over..If the voltage from the ignition switch goes to the connecter to the ICU then check the connector for a dirty contact, examine the ICU circuit connector for a hairline crack, you can bridge these with a single strand of thin copper wire and solder.
John.
Posted by Troll
- July 26, 2013, 16:36:39 PMYou have a power commander installed...I forgot that. Now I would be suspicious of that causing the no start...it's happened before.