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Since the FI Led is on; What code is store?
This is an update on my dilemma with my ride. The mechanic checked all sensors "NO problems" , tested the ECU "NO problems" The FI LED is on bike won't idle now. Haven't been able to get it dyno'd. The RPMs change continuously. The good thing he won't give up, he will not be outsmarted by a machine. He's not even charging me for have the time. Bad thing is I still don't have my ride
Chief I gave him the list you posted. but everything checked out. Any more Ideas........ I really want my ride.... I'm having withdrawals
What AO said... forgot about the pcIII location.
If it's a PCIII, it will be located in the tool storage. If it's a cobra FI it will be under the seat.
Take off the seat... if there is a box closest to the left side its probably a FI add-on box. You can lift it out to see which kind... its should have pots on it to adjust the settings as well.
Actually I may have misspoken. I actually may have an add on FI box and I don't know it lol, for this is the way in which I purchased it (used). So he may have put that on there, I haven't cracked into it to even see or even begin to look at it. Any help on identifying the FI box would be greatly appreciated. I was just speaking in regards to the absence of a power commander with the Hyper intake. I am a complete noob when it comes to the 1500 engine, hoping to be educated asap thru research and of course you guys!! Bring on any info insults or criticism you may have I can take it all lol!! Thanks, P
Yours will be the first Drifter I have ever heard of that did NOT need an add-on FI box with replacement of both the air box and pipes. Usually, the stock FI's design will not allow it to adjust itself enough to overcome the increase in air achieved with opening up the intake and exhaust.
But as I have said before, mine needed a box with just a replacement of pipes which is also very unusual.
Had the same problem on my VTX 1800. Your Power Commander is shot. I guarantee it. You are right about the defective PCIIIs. I went round and round with mine for months till we finally took it off and went back to stock setup. Also it is not always true that you need PC with Hypercharger, at least in my case, I've put over 5000 miles with just Hypercharger and V&H longshots and get nothing but compliments on how she runs, looks, and sounds. Planning on installing Commander within the next couple of weeks and taking Hyper off and using something else (undetermined, HELP!!), but yeah mine crapped out on me about a year after install on VTX, it was all over the place as far as fuel/air mixture. Reset it, cleared it, reloaded new maps, tried several different intakes, everything, nothing fixed it, and there was no way to tell or test the actual unit that we could find, everything seemed fine on laptop, but as soon as we removed PC (had Thunder intake with PC and HC 3" big straights btw and went to Hyper with HC 3" big straights and no PC with everything else stock)she ran fine. Power Commander would not replace the unit. I was pretty dissapointed, but yeah I am still gonna put one on my Drifter because it did give my VTX a noticeable increase in performance, until it started trippin. Just my tew sents
. P
An additional EFI box is needed if you greatly modify your bike... ie change air box AND pipes. Sometimes its needed if you only do one of these. I changed my pipes and needed a box.
However, there are boxes that don't use maps... ie cobra FI box... I have that one. The PCIII and its clones use maps and can squeeze out a bit more performance than the non-mapped boxes.
The first PCIII was replaced a year ago because it was faulty. I have taken it totally out before and found out it ran worse, so I put it back on. I then found out that with a hyper charger installed a PCIII is required. I think Chief had the right Idea, look for a faulty sensor, because my FI LED comes on from time to time.
Sorry to hear "ISG CAV". I'm no bike guru by any means, but if niether you or your mechanic got pc111 to operate correctly, is it the unit itself thats defective. Is there a way to check the unit, if so, I am assuming the mechanic did, but I would be curious how??? Its been a long time since I installed, recall there being about six or so connectors, that loops into the stock EFI system. Have you tried running it without the pciii? Do our set-ups really need the pc111, hmmm, GOOD LUCK.
If the FI light is lit continuously its got a fault code in there waiting to tell you the problem. It will hold multiple fault codes, so you have to run the test after you fix a problem to 1) verify the fault is corrected, 2) erase the code from the ecu and 3) to get another fault code if it exists.
The FI led should never come on after the bike is running. If it does, there is a problem of some sort.
When I took it in to the shop it would idle, and runs great between 75-90 miles an hour. When I got to the shop the FI led was on and it refused to idle. No fuels leaks or leaks period, But the thing runs really really rich. I had to clean the plugs every other time I rode it to work,(which is as far as it would run). before I tried to close off the smog control it ran ok, but the FI LED would come on from time to time. Chief I;ll give your information to my mechanic. GOD I hope it;s a sensor. I really want to ride it to Durango in July.
Thanks for correcting the fuel pump output Chief. I have a 99 and was unaware that it had been changed on them newer ones; must be the weight of all that chrome 
As Griz says, the dash FI light SHOULD be lit if there is a fault code stored. But you should check to ensure the dash light is working properly - (turn the ignition -and stop switch on-; the light should turn on for 1-2 seconds then turn off. If it doesn't come on then there is a problem with the LED.) Remember the ECU controls the fuel pump when the bike is running, so it has to be good.
There are some failures which will NOT cause the ECU to record a fault code...
- FI LED on dash
- Idle speed control valves
- Fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure
- Fuel injection main relay
- Ignition coil secondary wiring
- ECU circuit wiring
Griz gave you the pressure range... the output for a 2002 is actually 75ml/3 seconds vs 50ml/3secs on 1999-2000 models... it changed in 2001.
I always try to work from the simple to the more difficult. So I would check/test the following in this order...
- Ensure good battery, good connections - need it for testing in any event.
- Ensure FI LED works and there are No ecu faults/fault codes in the ECU. (it checks inputs from sensors, pickup coils, fuel injectors, ignition coils so it covers a lot of potential problems)
- Test for proper fuel pump pressure
- Test for proper fuel pump discharge
I also don't think the hypercharger itself has anything to do with your problem - unless its installed improperly causing a big difference in air flow... ie lot of air - LEAN mix; less air - RICH mix...
This is going to be a process of elimination apparently.
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