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Posted by Petemoss
- June 28, 2013, 14:10:47 PMNo, I mean to say you had me convinced your idea was a good idea at "box of beer".
Posted by CDNRatMan
- June 28, 2013, 14:07:46 PMsorry a box of beer to us is a case or what you call 24 beers in a cardboard box.......
that is why we have a "24" weekend because you can drink a couple of 24's in a weekend.
Posted by Petemoss
- June 28, 2013, 14:04:57 PMYou had me at "box of beer"...
Posted by CDNRatMan
- June 28, 2013, 13:52:48 PM 
Ride over to Greenbarn's and take a box of beer with you, and sit back in his garage and open the box of beer and put your feet up and watch him do it for you and learn how.......seems simple enough to me.......
Posted by Petemoss
- June 28, 2013, 11:27:13 AMThanks, Troll. It looks like I'm taking it to a shop. I don't have the tools for this job or the knowledge.
Posted by Troll
- June 28, 2013, 10:52:27 AMYes, and the rear fender. Once you get the rear wheel off the ground, and remove the caliper, lower the back end down 'till the tire is touching the ground, take off the big nut on the axle, and slide the axle part way to the left. take the 4 nuts loose/ then off and the rear wheel will come off with the final drive still attached. The sliding joint on the prop shaft needs to be greased...not just a little, a lot! Be prepared, 'cause once the 4 nuts are loosened, oil will run out of the swing arm tube. In a perfect world, there should be no oil in this tube, that's what the seal and o rings are for. While it's apart, drain out the old gear oil and make sure you fill it correctly when you reassemble it. I would estimate this as a 2 hour job....ymmv. Remember, if you don't feel comfortable doing a job, don't do it unless you have someone there with you that knows what's going on. I would not be afraid of this, but I was an ASE Master tech for 45 years, and this isn't much different from a car.
Posted by Petemoss
- June 28, 2013, 09:50:15 AMWill I need to remove the rear tire to replace the O rings?
Posted by Troll
- June 28, 2013, 07:35:40 AMThe o ring leaking fills the drive shaft tunnel with oil until it drips out. The boot doesn't seal anything in, just dirt out.
Posted by Petemoss
- June 27, 2013, 19:56:11 PMQuote from: Troll on June 27, 2013, 19:26:06 PMIs this the diagram of the final drive that bolts to the rear tire? Because it seems to be leaking at the boot. MThe coil spring under the boot was off and we reattached it and took the bike for a ride. It didn't spray the rear tire with oil. Could that be the problem? Also the final drive was hot to the touch after a 20 minute ride.It's probably NOT the seal. There are 2 "O" rings that seal the ends of the sliding joint at the drive end of the prop shaft. The wrench at my Dealer told me that they replace these rings every time they pull the final drive off because they will leak and cause this exact problem. They recommended pulling the drive and lubing the slider joint every time you replace the rear tire. If I had to bet, I'd say it's the one at the end of the pinion adapter, but you should replace both while you are in there greasing the sliding joint.
Posted by Troll
- June 27, 2013, 19:26:06 PMIt's probably NOT the seal. There are 2 "O" rings that seal the ends of the sliding joint at the drive end of the prop shaft. The wrench at my Dealer told me that they replace these rings every time they pull the final drive off because they will leak and cause this exact problem. They recommended pulling the drive and lubing the slider joint every time you replace the rear tire. If I had to bet, I'd say it's the one at the end of the pinion adapter, but you should replace both while you are in there greasing the sliding joint.
Posted by Petemoss
- June 27, 2013, 18:45:55 PMI'm pretty sure I'm leaking final drive oil and I'm mostly sure it's leaking from here.
