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The Nomad has dual calipers, but it's not just a matter of that. Lever ratio and total swept area of the cylinder must be kept in mind. When I went to a newer model M/cyl on my FLT, it went from a 1/2" bore to 3/4" bore, and the lever travel DECREASED by about 50%, but the lever pressure increased, but not by the same amount. The effective pressure at the calipers increased, and the brake performance improved. I put 11/16" bore cylinder on my SuperGlide, to go with the dual caliper setup I put on that, and the performance improvement was quite startling. Lever travel was slightly more than the FLT (same calipers/discs), but the feel and feedback was improved. The Sglide weighs about 300 lbs less, and I was able to get it to stop from 60 mph in 100', quite consistently, there was no brake fade even after many stops. Bottom line: putting a different M/cyl on might improve braking, or it might cause a nightmare..experimentation is the only way to find out. As far as the clutch is concerned, I'm thinking that it might not be as simple as you think, for the same reasons as the brake, clutch piston travel and lever ratio will be important here, too. Then there is the problem of the banjo fitting......
thats the info I need.
many many thanks, pilgrim!
I am actually debating picking up a set for my 2010 Indian. It came factory with the hydraulic clutch, but the master cylinders for the clutch and the brake are rectangular shaped, wheres as the drifters\vulcans are round. the round looks way better.
It has 1 inch bars, so that would not be a problem.
the clutch side should be a easy swap. but the front brake would be a problem since I have dual calipers on the front. So I'm assuming the piston size will be differant.
Does anyone have any experiance using the factory drifter brake master cylinder and converting to dual calipers on the front?
It is a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch- when the handle is released the wires black to black/red are made.
When handle is pulled in the wires black to black/yellow are made.
black is the common.
If the connector comes loose, the bike won't start. Found that out yesterday after installing risers.
concerning the clutch switch on the LH lever,
would anyone happen to know if the circuit becomes open, or closed, when you pull the clutch lever?
thanks in advance for any help.
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