We limit access by GUESTS to protect our members from spam, hacks and trolls. Please register to gain access to all our resources.
Well, you could start by comparing part numbers and exploded parts drawings. Ron Ayers has a great Fiche for this: http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki
Quote from: pcarrell on March 17, 2010, 06:22:02 AMHi: thanks for welcoming me to the potential new family. And possibly donating some of your valuable time to help out a possible future Drifter owner.I can do some recon for you in the central Indiana area.
As for the electrical, I'd just boost the system on the bike already and call it done. Matter of fact, if you come up with a good system for doing it, other owners would probably be interested. I know there's at least one guy out there making a stator that boosts output like 10-20% or something like that.
And mileage.......these bikes will go a tton of miles before they need major work if you take care of them. We have seveeral members over 100,000 miles on the original drivetrain. You might have to swap the clutch spring once or twice, but thats about it for the bigger stuff.
10 - 20% increase via a increased stator wiring density is not what I am after for an increase. Typically these increase's are also buried up in the higher end of the RPM range where it is not very useful for day to day riding. At least that is my experience with Stator Upgrades. I want a nice electrical capacity upgrade to easily run the two spot lights, heated grips, electric vest and misc accessories (ie cell phone charging etc).
I am looking to take it up to the 520'ish wattage of the Nomad system, which is a sizable increase and I believe why the factory went with a 2nd stator & reg/rectifier system.
Being the 2nd stator (attached to the inside casing) is installed inside the rotor, I suspect the crankshaft length that penetrates into this area on the drifter will be too short. Also, it appears they drive the counter balancer system on the drifter via a gear behind the stock rotor while the nomad I believe drives the counter balancer system from a different location.
With all above being said: I believe it will be much much easier to just drop in a good low mileage Nomad 1500 FI engine (that's a day's work and maybe $1500 for the engine) rather than the unknowns above and the resulting IF you can do the modifications.
Taking this one step farther: I am curious if a 1600 Nomad FI engine casing is the same. I suspect moving to the 1600 FI Nomad engine will probably be too much of a leap. Most likely it is different injectors, entirely new ECU etc. The resulting electrical system modifications would probably not be a wise return performance wise for the sizeable increase in $ invested to integrate this motor into the drifter chassis. I suspect the only way to do this one, would be to get a wrecked 1600 FI drifter, strip the 1500 drifter down to a bare chassis, install 1600 wiring harness/ECU etc.
I can do some recon for you in the central Indiana area.
As for the electrical, I'd just boost the system on the bike already and call it done. Matter of fact, if you come up with a good system for doing it, other owners would probably be interested. I know there's at least one guy out there making a stator that boosts output like 10-20% or something like that.
And mileage.......these bikes will go a tton of miles before they need major work if you take care of them. We have seveeral members over 100,000 miles on the original drivetrain. You might have to swap the clutch spring once or twice, but thats about it for the bigger stuff.
PS: Forgot to ask one more thing....
Can you still get Roadhouse Dooley Exhausts?
Gents: Couple questions for you all. I may go ahead and purchase a 99 - 00 Drifter 1500 in the next fews months dependent on life events.
Question 1:
I am thinking of going for a moderate mileage one to keep the costs down, then drop in a low mileage Nomad 1500 FI engine so that I can get the extra electrical charging capacity.
I am more than capable to complete the swap out (rewiring, adding the extra voltage reg/rec etc).
Has anyone tried the swap here yet? I believe the cams are different, so depending on the mileage of the drifter engine/cam condition most likely I would just drop in new drifter 1500 cams for peace of mind. Since I would run the drifter cams, I would reuse the drifter ECU.
Question 2:
Depending when I enter the market (I am in Seattle WA area), if I find a bike that fits my needs (depending whether I go for moderate mileage option above or a low mileage 99/00): would any of you have time if it is out of state and in your area to take a peak at it?
Thanks so much for your time.
Andy
Page created in 0.059 seconds with 12 queries.