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Quote from: drifter-paul on January 30, 2013, 18:07:19 PMok just to test the solenoid bridge the two wires with a thick jumper cable or even a pair of grips the bike should turn over without the bssst noise...I don't think you have a faulty solenoid...Thanks,
Putting finger on solenoid (1 of 4 electrical components on right side of battery box - battery box has plastic tangs for sliding the rubber mounts onto, and each component has it's own rubber mount to sit in) . The noise is a bit like an arc welder and the vibration is fast - like chattering teeth.
Maybe I have two dud solenoids in a row
Will test your suggestions, and get an electric-minded friend to run his ohm meter over it.
Now the interesting part..
disconnect the battery and remove the fuse box from the rubber mount..it will have two connectors plugged into it..unlock these from the lock lug with a screwdriver and pull them out..now examine both connectors for burn marks..if they are good look at the fusebox..on the back are four small philips screws, remove them this will expose the back of the circuit board that carries the fuses and one or two relays..the Bssstt noise was the circuit board burning around one of those relays try to find another good fuse panel from the scrap yard with exactly the same one or two relays..be careful they made several different ones..If you discover the burning and cant find another fuseboard post a couple of good photos here and I will tell you how to repair it..
John.
Thanks,
Putting finger on solenoid (1 of 4 electrical components on right side of battery box - battery box has plastic tangs for sliding the rubber mounts onto, and each component has it's own rubber mount to sit in) . The noise is a bit like an arc welder and the vibration is fast - like chattering teeth.
Maybe I have two dud solenoids in a row
Will test your suggestions, and get an electric-minded friend to run his ohm meter over it.
beee -zittttd again - you can feel the vibration of the solenoid throwing and re-setting when you place your finger on the unit.
I'm not sure I understand this bit...You seem to be on top of most of this but..
are you putting your finger on the starter solenoid or the starter..
The starter solenoid or starter relay is under the seat or inside the right cover..depending on model..
If the solenoid is making that noise it is likely loose or has a loose connection, or it is poorly mounted and the noise is an arc to ground..
you can bypass the solenoid by running a thick wire directly to the starter motor from the battery +, this will cause the starter motor to run and eliminate all the rest of the circuit...don't leave it running for more than a second or two...
you don't need the ignition on...if it grinds or doesnt sound good you have a fault at the starter motor or the gears it connects to..
If that is ok..move back to the solenoid and bridge the two thick wires, that should do the same thing..
If it doesn't you have a loose wire from the solenoid to the starter motor or the battery to the solenoid.
I forgot to mention..this assumes the battery is good and the battery connections are both clean and tight.
John.
Read the recent "won't start" topic, but I don't think it applies here.
After a year (camshaft, camchains/sprockets, MS clutch, fork oil, etc and a new paint job and pinstripping), my '99 1500 (140K) is back on the road (was).
Took it for a few rides, various short distances and different days, and then one 200 mile one. Had a beer and half hour later decided to go out again. Got 100 yards and she died. Brake lights/horn/indicators work. Tried starting again - console lights work as per normal, on then off - wait till console lights finished, then hit starter. Got a bee - zitttt noise from starter solenoid , so replaced that (with a second hand unit). She ran for a week than beee -zittttd again - you can feel the vibration of the solenoid throwing and re-setting when you place your finger on the unit.
Checked grounds for wires - clean , unpainted, connected and tight, no visible shorts.
Took starter motor out of m/c and auto electrician tested it - fine. He suggested bypass testing of existing wiring.
I was hoping it was a poor ground, or worn components in the starter, aggravated by sitting for a year.
Now I'm at a loss.
P.S. You don't need to drain the radiator to get the starter motor out. Remove the starter motor wire, and the single-wire switch on bottom of radiator. Undo two bolts on left holding starter in place, insert blade screwdriver on right side of starter and wiggle/pry to the left - settle starter motor on engine block/radiator. Undo bolt holding top of radiator to frame, move 1'' forward and up until s/motor drops into hand of assistant..
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